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The "Today I received" Thread

And I am now able to confirm that it is indeed possible to fit 2 pins into a Vauxhall Zafira. Not sure I'd do it with a pair of new/mint machines as they had to sit on their sides, but fine for these two classics!
 
I think @astyy's is going to take a little longer... ;) Hopefully not as long as my PARAGON :eek:

But the BALLY PRESERVATION SOCIETY has saved another high-demand classic pin from being parted-out and VECTOR CLUB has another member.
 
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Ah cool. Good stuff.

Am I bringing this glass to play btw?
 
rockhouse said:
started to put some led's in mine they are tight to get in
do you need a resistor for the back box ones?
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You only need a resistor if it's a lamp controlled by an SCR. So that's a definite yes for all the inserts on the playfield and some of the "GI" because it's also controlled, such as the lamps behind the X-Y-Z drop-targets and the lamps in the cutouts adjacent to the arrows on the upper arch. Check the schematics in the manual - just check which lamps are controlled by the LAMP DRIVER MODULE.

I'm going to assume the same is true for the backbox lamps that flash. Pretty sure this will the ones in the middle behind the giant red dot and the chasers around the edge that are driven by the AUX LAMP DRIVER MODULE that is mounted on the inside of the backbox door.

Tight is an understatement! But try putting the original glass incandescent bulbs back in. OMG. For the time being I've removed all the LEDs from my VECTOR as I probably won't have time to do it all before NLP.
 
Mozcom said:
Good old CPC
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I got a little package from CPC this morning too. 6m of PRO POWER ARCTIC BLUE FLEX, 3 x 1.5mm², 500V, 15A. I want to fit new cables for NLP. The cable in GOLD BALL is annoyingly short and VECTOR still has the nasty original flat 3-core US cable. Yuck. I though the bright blue was rather eye catching and matches both games rather well!

farm1.staticflickr.com_746_21822777572_a44309d916_c.jpg
 
i was looking at replacing the power cords on some of mine the other day and found that on the Wickes website i could buuy a 25m roll of 1.5mm2 twin-and-earth for £30 quid, but when i went into the shop they only had 10m rolls for £20

then i went into a local electrician shop and he sold me a 50m drum of the same stuff for £23, so i have more than i need. i use 3m or up to 4m so i have enough for about 18 machines and only need half a dozen so am happy to cut off 3m pieces for anyone who asks for a pint of beer. the only downside is that it's white.

@Nedreud while you're in the power box are you going to add a thermistor to prevent the game from sucking too much initial current and potentially setting off the house breaker fuse? they're not in older games but i think they're a good idea - see this link for details:
http://www.flippers.be/basics/101_sys11_house_fuse_trips.html
as far as i understand it, a varistor protects the game from spikes like lightning, a thermistor protects your house from your game. i'm sure someone knoeledgeable will correct me if i'm wrong.
 
cooldan said:
i was looking at replacing the power cords on some of mine the other day and found that on the Wickes website i could buuy a 25m roll of 1.5mm2 twin-and-earth for £30 quid, but when i went into the shop they only had 10m rolls for £20

then i went into a local electrician shop and he sold me a 50m drum of the same stuff for £23, so i have more than i need. i use 3m or up to 4m so i have enough for about 18 machines and only need half a dozen so am happy to cut off 3m pieces for anyone who asks for a pint of beer. the only downside is that it's white.

@Nedreud while you're in the power box are you going to add a thermistor to prevent the game from sucking too much initial current and potentially setting off the house breaker fuse? they're not in older games but i think they're a good idea - see this link for details:
http://www.flippers.be/basics/101_sys11_house_fuse_trips.html
as far as i understand it, a varistor protects the game from spikes like lightning, a thermistor protects your house from your game. i'm sure someone knoeledgeable will correct me if i'm wrong.
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I'm confused. Is this on wpc era games? And you ate replacing the power cords with twin and earth!?! Wtf!?! Why would you not just get replacement ' kettle leads' for couple quid each.

Maybe I have misunderstood :/

Sent from my C64 using Tapatalk
 
This is on games that don't have a detachable kettle lead but a thing you have to push in, that attaches directly to the power box inside the coin door.
 
Interesting @cooldan, thanks for the link. I'm replacing on Bally machines and have never experienced this problem. The suggested temporary "solution" is to plug into a long externsion lead. Well, my summerhouse is at the end of 15m of buried armoured cable to the house then at least another 15m of cable round the ring main to the "old school" wire-wound fuse box (although there is a modern 30mA breaker protecting everything). The summerhouse also has it's own modern consumer unit with breakers and the end of the armoured cable is protected by an RCD in case anyone should dig though the cable with a JCB or something like that! I think there's enough "resistance" in that circuit to keep it happy ;)

And I love the great gazumping humming THUNK the big fat Bally transformers make when you switch on a game. Like flicking the switch in Frankenstein's laboratory!

@Sgt GrizZ - @cooldan means 3-core flex rather than T&E. That really would be nasty on any pinball machine! Bonus points for fitting a cable with an earth though ;) I dread to think how many botched pins there are out there without an earth... :eek:

Be careful with those "kettle" leads though... the really cheap ones may not be sufficiently rated. Most are 5A which should be fine for a pinball machine (typically drawing 1A to 3A depending on what it's doing) but better to get ones rated at 10A. The cable will be a bit thicker and more robust too. Ironically, you wouldn't want to use either to plug in your kettle! A 3kW kettle is going to draw 12.5A so you're going to need something a bit chunkier! The common 1.8m IEC cables are designed for plugging in devices such as PCs and monitors.
 
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