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Very Irritating noise from my Getaway

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Not even the correct coils on the lower flippers.

There's a reason that folk like Andy get hyper aggressive straight on the out. They want to prevent details from coming out, because the details damn them. So they try and antagonise to make people back off.

Durzel said:
Different coils for the lower flippers (ubiquitous on every machine) can’t be right surely?
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I think this is actually true on some games, but it's really rare and it would be only for the most asymmetric of playfields.
 

Thx for the link @pinballmania

Could I ask a QQ pls?

Am I right in saying, the one in my picture, that I have in my machine, is a reinforced target (has the metal at the back) or are these ones in your shop, the same as my picture?

I'd like to match what I have but I wonder if I'm not understanding the part properly 👍

A-14691 seems to be in the manual

Thank you in advance..
 

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biglouieuk said:
Thx for the link @pinballmania

Could I ask a QQ pls?

Am I right in saying, the one in my picture, that I have in my machine, is a reinforced target (has the metal at the back) or are these ones in your shop, the same as my picture?

I'd like to match what I have but I wonder if I'm not understanding the part properly 👍

A-14691 seems to be in the manual

Thank you in advance..
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Jesus - I have thrown better targets than that in the bin!!!!!
I would be replacing them all if they look like that.

Best of luck with your refurbishment.
 
Coolm
pinballmania said:
Correct.
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Magic. You're out of stock of the yellows by 1 (think yellow will be better than orange) 🙂

I'll order up replacements (will you lmk if you find an extra 1 pls?) and replace the lot to appease my arcade OCD.

Thx for coming back to me..
 
biglouieuk said:
Manual shows lower flipper coils to be 11629 (blue) and upper one 11630 (red) , slightly less power for top one I guess.

I enjoyed rebuilding the flipper assembly...
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Red is more powerful than blue I think

...edit - it’s not. [emoji3]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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From low power to highest


FL1-11753 Yellow - Used with short flippers and close shots
FL1-11722 Green - Used for close shots near drop targets
FL1-11630 Red - The standard, most commonly used coil
FL1-15411 Orange - Used for long playfield shots
FL1-11629 Blue - Used for long shots and high ramps
 
White water has mixed lower flipper coils too, I guess the right is blue to make the left ramp shot. The high power flippers means the light lock targets usually get smashed over time though.
 
Given the thread is about the irritating sound, I did some digging, based on suggestions about coin up sound.

I downloaded Pinsound Studio (used to make new orchestrations for Pinsound) and downloaded the original Getaway orchestration, to see if I could find the sound, then track back to where the orchestration plays that sound..

Anyway, I think THIS is the sound (cant attach a .wav, so link to a wav HERE), also poor quality screen recording below..

Pinsound Studio only works on Win, I use a Mac, so I cant find exactly where that sound is triggered...yet... I get the new CPU tomorrow, with a bit of luck, so I can test coin up for that sound..:) I just thought Pinsound break down might be an avenue of investigation!


View attachment fing irritating sound.mov
 
biglouieuk said:
Given the thread is about the irritating sound, I did some digging, based on suggestions about coin up sound.

I downloaded Pinsound Studio (used to make new orchestrations for Pinsound) and downloaded the original Getaway orchestration, to see if I could find the sound, then track back to where the orchestration plays that sound..

Anyway, I think THIS is the sound (cant attach a .wav, so link to a wav HERE), also poor quality screen recording below..

Pinsound Studio only works on Win, I use a Mac, so I cant find exactly where that sound is triggered...yet... I get the new CPU tomorrow, with a bit of luck, so I can test coin up for that sound..:) I just thought Pinsound break down might be an avenue of investigation!


View attachment 98946
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At the moment it looks like you are trying things (without much success) to get your sound board working. You are also changing coils and targets etc.

Why do you not concentrate on the one thing, get that repaired - then move on to the next. You could be making things worse instead of better.

If you are really stuck with the sound board then I would advise you to grab another or chuck it in the bin and put your pinsound in. Put in the pinsound legacy that you have downloaded. If it does trigger different sounds and that coin sound then its something on the CPU board, ribbon cables or switch matrix.

Let's just say you wire a coil backwards - you could be taking out fuses and/or transistors all over the shop. If you start changing tagets and get a wire crossed - then you will be having more issues.

I would take a step backwards.

On the last point @biglouieuk - I use a mac as well, but run windows 7 via a virtual machine on my desktop - so I can still run things like pinsound on my mac.
 
Hi @Pick Holder

Thanks for the help, I'm not changing anything at the moment. I have done coils, flippers, bulbs etc in the last few weeks, but I've been waiting now for the soundboard CPU replacement chip before I can do much on the sound issue. I bust the chip. So in the meantime, I thought I'd look into pinsound to learn some of that. 👍
 
biglouieuk said:
Hi @Pick Holder

Thanks for the help, I'm not changing anything at the moment. I have done coils, flippers, bulbs etc in the last few weeks, but I've been waiting now for the soundboard CPU replacement chip before I can do much on the sound issue. I bust the chip. So in the meantime, I thought I'd look into pinsound to learn some of that. 👍
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Where are you getting this new cpu chip from and how long are you having to wait for it??? If its from China and low cost there’s no guarantee it isn’t a cheap fake.

I can send you a nos known good one out today and you’d have it tomorrow morning if that would help? Pm me
 
I’m a bit confused about this diagnosis. Why are CPU board chips being pulled/replaced for a possible sound board issue?

Why were they pulled at all?

Also to echo the above - there’s a lot of fake 6809x chips about.
 
myPinballs said:
Where are you getting this new cpu chip from and how long are you having to wait for it??? If its from China and low cost there’s no guarantee it isn’t a cheap fake.

I can send you a nos known good one out today and you’d have it tomorrow morning if that would help? Pm me
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It's being delivered from the UK but eBay (super.fast), it went in the post on the 27th but no guarantee.

I'll send you a PM of you think we can do this? It would definately help me.
 
Durzel said:
I’m a bit confused about this diagnosis. Why are CPU board chips being pulled/replaced for a possible sound board issue?

Why were they pulled at all?

Also to echo the above - there’s a lot of fake 6809x chips about.
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In short, because I'm a Nob.

I ran through about 5 things that a helpful chap on Pinside suggested. Final was to reseat the CPU. I didn't do that as I knew I'd knack it. Then did it in desperation, and knacked it.
 
Two new CPU arrived this morning (to replace the one I broke pins on in the sound board)

Neither give me sound back. Both seated correctly.

Bit of whistling from the speakers. Nothing else has been touched.

Had high hopes for this as it was all that had been messed with...

When I press service from the main rolling credits screen, I get a click and all the lights flash though, which is new..
 
biglouieuk said:
In short, because I'm a Nob.

I ran through about 5 things that a helpful chap on Pinside suggested. Final was to reseat the CPU. I didn't do that as I knew I'd knack it. Then did it in desperation, and knacked it.
Click to expand...
For future reference each board in the machine has a discrete function. There’s a CPU (also called MPU) board which handles game logic, a Power Driver board - the big one - which, as the name suggests, handles power for all the lighting and electrical circuits (as well as powering the other boards), a Video board that handles the DMD and a Sound board which does the sound. Optionally in some games there are additional auxiliary boards that perform different functions, e.g. rectifiers, Fliptronics, etc.

Generally speaking a problem with the game can be localised to a single board and/or the connectors and wiring attached to it.

The sound problem you were experiencing imo was only likely to be due to either a faulty switch, a wire grounding somewhere or a fault on the sound board. If the game plays normally otherwise and doesn’t reset then the MPU and PDB are probably fine.

Pinside is a great resource (as is here) but the shotgun approach is likely to cause more problems really - such as the fuses problem you experienced. If the game works then generally there is no good reason to be pulling ribbon cables and particularly not chips. There are exceptions to this (TZ flashers locking on is a classic ribbon cable fix to begin with).

Pulling chips on these games is fraught with risk, not least of which because of how old the boards are, how long those chips might have been in place for, etc. It is - in my experience - very difficult to remove them without bending or breaking pins, and very easy to reinstall them incorrectly.
 
biglouieuk said:
Two new CPU arrived this morning (to replace the one I broke pins on in the sound board)

Neither give me sound back. Both seated correctly.

Bit of whistling from the speakers. Nothing else has been touched.

Had high hopes for this as it was all that had been messed with...

When I press service from the main rolling credits screen, I get a click and all the lights flash though, which is new..
Click to expand...
Let’s be clear here - which chips are you messing with? The CPU board is different to the sound board. You should not be touching anything on the CPU (MPU) board (the one on the left of the backbox)
 
Durzel said:
For future reference each board in the machine has a discrete function. There’s a CPU (also called MPU) board which handles game logic, a Power Driver board - the big one - which, as the name suggests, handles power for all the lighting and electrical circuits (as well as powering the other boards), a Video board that handles the DMD and a Sound board which does the sound. Optionally in some games there are additional auxiliary boards that perform different functions, e.g. rectifiers, Fliptronics, etc.

Generally speaking a problem with the game can be localised to a single board and/or the connectors and wiring attached to it.

The sound problem you were experiencing imo was only likely to be due to either a faulty switch, a wire grounding somewhere or a fault on the sound board. If the game plays normally otherwise and doesn’t reset then the MPU and PDB are probably fine.

Pinside is a great resource (as is here) but the shotgun approach is likely to cause more problems really - such as the fuses problem you experienced. If the game works then generally there is no good reason to be pulling ribbon cables and particularly not chips. There are exceptions to this (TZ flashers locking on is a classic ribbon cable fix to begin with).

Pulling chips on these games is fraught with risk, not least of which because of how old the boards are, how long those chips might have been in place for, etc. It is - in my experience - very difficult to remove them without bending or breaking pins, and very easy to reinstall them incorrectly.
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All understood (I think) :-)

When I say CPU, I mean the chip in the soundboard at U13. Apologies if I called it the wrong thing. Haven't pulled anything off the main WPC CPU Board

Pic below of chip I mean. It's on soundboard.
 

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Good good. Don’t touch any other board :)

The chips you bought - they were programmed for Getaway I assume? (dumb question but need to ask)

Also I would assume, but am not certain, that the sound chips would need to match the ROM version (L-5 in your case)
 
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