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Spooky Pinball - Halloween

Updated mine earlier, another big improvement. They must have been desperate to get the money rolling in so released them waaaayyyyy too early, at a cost to them as they got slated but as you say it’s getting good now. The future is looking bright for these games now, really really enjoying mine.
Are you speaker lights staying red and white from the boot sequence?
 
Played quite a few games today and really loving it, I got confused with how to qualify the new first kill mode as I was getting there and then not getting there with what I thought was doing the same thing but turns out if you hit 3 orange knife handle hurry ups it qualifies you for first kill and 4 plus more gets you more points in that mode.

Hope that makes sense, basically lock the ball in Tombstone and then knock it out or hit tombstone 5 times lock/knock it out or hit 3 orange hurry up knife handles to qualify first kill🤪

I need to check the orange knife handle thing as this has only just been mentioned, glass off tomorrow😂
 
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I played this game again tonight and I really like it.

There is so much going on by not overwhelmingly so. Good feel on the flippers, great use of upper playfield, easy enough shots on the main playfield with some trickier ones up top.
 
The latest code (1.12) was released for both Halloween and Ultraman last night. I’ve not downloaded it yet but Spooky are saying it includes new assets and polish to the game 👍🏻
 
Just beat me too it, will check it out later👍

New code! Bug fixes and polish, new coder is on the case😎



v1.12 change log

.

- The effect where the Michael servos move a little bit when scoop targets hit has now been fixed so they go back to the correct position.
- added new menu option "BUMP MIKES" to turn the above effect off.
- Hedge Multiball restart: have tweaked the timing on this so both balls don't arrive at your flippers at the exact same time.
- extra white flashes removed between/during some videos and transitions. There's still lightning and other effects, but the overall effect is now a lot smoother.
- Some stuff that went missing is now back, including knife sound on launch, end orbit noise, match screen music, stalker mode start music, Bob and Lynda target "gong" noises, store prices, and orange speaker lights. Someone went on a slashing rampage there, oops.
- extra ball eject issue: trough logic tweaked to wait a bit longer for a ball to arrive to the shooter lane before trying again.
- ball search time after initial plunge has been increased, so you've got more time to ping away at that tricky Judith Tombstone Lock, not hitting any switches, time after time after time... before the coils all fire scaring the crap out of you.
- ball search change: the judith tombstone drop will now be triggered on the second ball search (not the third).
- ball search won't trigger while you're in the mode select area
- if the mode select screen timed out and you had First Kill selected, the rainbow playfield lights didn't disappear - now they do.
- Bob and Lynda help text now just references pink shots (no purple)
- lifter shake works on the right again
- if you set the REPLAY AWARD to "extra ball" on the attract screen it will say "EXTRA BALL AT {score}" instead of "REPLAY AT..."
- holding a ball during House or Sanitarium Multiball for double jackpots, now also doubles the Super Jackpots.
- Hedge Multiball Super Jackpot has been increased to 2M x balls in play
- House Multiball Super Jackpot limit of 5M has now been removed, you can boost it even higher before collecting it.
- Skillshot drop targets now will register a hit faster
- House MB qualification: the right spinner and middle playfield scoop now knock Michael's health down a little bit faster.
- First Kill has a ball save now when it starts.
- The ball save light between the flippers should be better, on and off at the right times. This might still need some future tweaks.
- if in Pumpkin Multiball and then start Tombstone Multiball, Don't Fear The Reaper will keep playing and Tombstone jackpot callouts won't duck The Reaper volume.
- changed the limits on the menu option "MODES NEEDED FOR JACK MB" to allow 1-5.
- hint text now clearing off the end of game screens.
- Pumpkin Multiball help text now showing properly.
- added more callouts when starting Sanitarium.
- Stalker mode now displays the ball number.
- Stalker mode is now startable when House or Sanitarium pre-modes are running.
- added more callouts for hitting hedges you've already collected.
- if you set the MATCH % to zero in the menu it won't show the Match Screen at the end of a game
- Blood store now has a sleeker look,with the faux walnut brown bar along the bottom removed
- once this update is installed, if in future your computer adds some extra characters to your update file name such as "(1)" it won't be fussy any more and the update will still work. Note this update will still want it exactly right, but you can be a bit more relaxed in the future
- crash fix when playing Let Me In mode.
 
From SpookyBug

“Hey guys! I'm going to be streaming NEW Halloween Code tomorrow night on Twitch at 7PM Central. I'll also be doing a Q&A session afterwards, so bring your questions!
We've got some really cool new features in this update, hope to see you there!


Happy days 😎
 
Don’t update unless you want your left ramp switch to not register on certain modes which leaves you stranded!
Also had hassle updating this time, wish I didn’t bother!
Update on the update to fix the update out soon😂
 
At last (not tried yet)

Code Update!

Version 1.13a is now available at https://www.spookypinball.com/game-support/halloween/

Change log:

- First Kill left ramp now registering.
- Mac updates will work again AFTER this update. Apologies that Mac file updates got broken back in the v1.12 code when we added in an allowance for code files with a (1) at the end. Once you've installed v1.13a (either with a Windows machine or by cleaning off the hidden file using the dot_clean method on https://www.spookypinball.com/game-support/hwn-um-update-process/) future updates will just be a simple file copy again. We have also added in Mac testing for every update going forward so this doesn't happen again.
- you may have seen in Bug's v1.13 gameplay stream, he demonstrated the feature of ball saves being turned off after reaching Boogeyman wizard mode (ouch!). That has now been changed and ball saves will continue to work as normal throughout the game.
- orbits to reset the triple drop bank after finishing a mode are now red.
- dirty pool shot looping is now working better. Hit the shot between the drop targets and up the center ramp and House won't start. Keep looping the shot for an extra 100% multiplier, starting House (a benefit of hitting the shot) will occur if you knock either of the side drop targets down.
- Menu Audits > coins and current losing streak (used for the dynamic option for replays) are now updating.
- Drive The Evil Back will happen a bit more often now.
- Drive The Evil Back blood is now worth 3% instead of 2%.
- Drive The Evil Back ball eject now gives a bit more time to read the text on screen.
- 3 Blood lit from knocking down drops will now show correctly if you already have one or two lit from Drive The Evil Back.
- The Blood Store becomes available after each 3, 4 then 5 blood you collect. This number of blood collected was being saved between balls which meant the store opened after only 1 or 2 on a new ball, it resets each ball now.
- Blood drop multiplier icon now hidden for Stalker intro and on the mode select screen.
- blood was staying lit when starting modes, you need to collect it all before hitting the pumpkin scoop
- Stalker lots of improvements to heads moving around and you can now hit an area as soon as Michael starts moving without getting caught.
- Stalker ball save light is finally fixed!
- Stalker flashing right scoop will now turn off after the mode.
- Stalker can now be started after visiting OR completing a mode.
- Stalker icon on the mode select screen will have the correct NOT READY or check or cross.
- Stalker help text should now be correct.
- Stalker mode total displayed on screen now includes ALL the points you earned, including hurryups.
- Stalker "purple" lights now include 200% more purple.
- Stalker middle playfield scoop will now always eject the ball (it would sometimes hold it before).
- Skillshot: if you hit targets in the drop bank you'll hear thunder and/or smashing glass SFXs.
- Sometimes when starting a game the background was missing so it was a mainly black screen. This is fixed.
- House, on restart if spinners were finished, the upper drop will now be purple.
- Sanitarium start now has more thorough checking to make sure it can't be sort-of started if you already "completed" it by getting a Super Jackpot and just happen to be in the scoop when something else ends.
- CRASH FIX for help text in certain states of House
- Hedge Michaels would sometimes stay out after a failed mode hurryup, they now hide again.
- Flipper training won't happen in Boogeyman wizard mode.
- Boogeyman wizard mode help text is now removed after finishing the mode.
- Boogeyman help text was showing during the intro video, now waits until it is done.
- Boogeyman gun shot knocks are now in time with the video and all shots have a knock.
- Boogeyman help text regarding ball save time earnt from spinners now updates correctly.
- Boogeyman start will turn off the pumpkin scoop insert flashing correctly now.
- Menu option for Attract Mode Volume has now been added to the Feature Settings.
- Laurie Slashes Back middle ramp now registers.
- Hitting the right scoop while a ball search is happening will still allow the scoop to work properly afterwards.

Enjoy, and as always, please fire through any bugs or issues to me at matt@spookypinball.com
 
Happy Halloween 🎃

CODE UPDATE: new 1.14 code is up on the new website.

https://www.spookypinball.com/game-support/halloween/

Change Log

- THE NIGHT HE CAME HOME (WIZARD MODE)
- Menu setting WIZARD PLAY now has THE NIGHT HE CAME HOME so you can play it as a mini game
- Menu setting MODES NEEDED FOR THE NIGHT allows you to adjust the prerequisites for the mode: START 6 modes, START 9 modes, COMPLETE 6 modes, COMPLETE 9 modes
- Ball saves will now save more than one ball in the allotted time
- Ball saves now kick out a ball more quickly
- Ball saves now have a grace period
- CRASH FIX – stalker mode timeout bug now fixed
- Stalker hurry up flash at the scoop now turns off correctly when the mode ends
- Stalker mode now won’t start if you have a ball locked in the Tombstone
- CRASH FIX – sometimes there was an error counting your blood
- Triple drop bank is now more responsive if you hit them right after they’ve just been reset up
- Skillshot – drop bank sounds were getting cut off. The “missed” noise wasn’t even playing. All fixed
- Tilt Bug – flippers are now enabled after a tilt and the background is getting redrawn correctly.
- Tilt – setting tilt warnings to zero in the menu now tilts immediately (instead of never!)
- Really slow orbits should now still count as an orbit
- Menu setting under GAME FEATURES called LIFTER NOISE IN MB allows you to turn off the noise the lifters make, during multiballs (when it can get quite repetitive)
- First Kill, ball search times are extended when hitting the crossover
- Tombstone Capture Ball – all the lights there now flash when one more shot will lock the ball
- House – the spinners and middle playfield drop won’t be lit if you restart the mode and you’ve already damaged Michael enough
- CRASH FIX – Let Me In trying to check the state of the mode is fixed.
- Sanitarium help text now shows at the correct times
- A ball put in right subway during ball search now gets lifted
 
I’m so looking forward to mine arriving. Fair play to Spooky for getting this update out today 😊

Let us know what the update's like mate
Only had a few games last night but was under the influence of alcohol so need to try it today, noticed a couple of glitches so need to check today.
They added the final wizard mode and have said plenty more to come so that’s good, it’s a great game and different. Not easy at all which is good.
You can go into the menu and set it to play the final wizard mode, one day I might have to lol

Congats on getting one😎
 
So I just set it up to play the new end wizard mode which is in the settings, I’m a decent player but had to check it out! (this game is hard).

Spooky smashed it, the atmosphere and all the movie clips and sound are great.

The night he came home is on par or better to me than Horde mode in TWD which is the best mode in pinball😎

So Neil 😮‍💨 😂 maybe not for comps but 🤷‍♂️
 
Not sure if anyone has updated there spooky LCD to an IPS screen on here before?

I’ve just replaced mine on Halloween. Night and day difference, full clarity of colours and brightness from any standing position. Very pleased with it.

Took 20mins and I was able to use all the stock mounting plate and wiring.

You need two things which total £74

VSDISPLAY HDM I+VGA Input Controller Board Kit LCD Driver Board For B156HAN01.1 LP156WF4 11.6'' 13.3'' 14'' 15.6'' 1920x1080 30Pins edp LCD Screen


AJPARTS UK New Compatible with NV156FHM-N4M NV156FHM-N52 NV156FHM-N4H, NV156FHM-N4V Laptop Screen 15.6” Narrow Bezel/Nano Edge Slim LED LCD 1920 x 1080 FHD IPS Display 30 Pin Matte Panel Non Touch

I’ll put some pics up if anyone needs any pointers etc 👍
 
Not sure if anyone has updated there spooky LCD to an IPS screen on here before?

I’ve just replaced mine on Halloween. Night and day difference, full clarity of colours and brightness from any standing position. Very pleased with it.

Took 20mins and I was able to use all the stock mounting plate and wiring.

You need two things which total £74

VSDISPLAY HDM I+VGA Input Controller Board Kit LCD Driver Board For B156HAN01.1 LP156WF4 11.6'' 13.3'' 14'' 15.6'' 1920x1080 30Pins edp LCD Screen


AJPARTS UK New Compatible with NV156FHM-N4M NV156FHM-N52 NV156FHM-N4H, NV156FHM-N4V Laptop Screen 15.6” Narrow Bezel/Nano Edge Slim LED LCD 1920 x 1080 FHD IPS Display 30 Pin Matte Panel Non Touch

I’ll put some pics up if anyone needs any pointers etc 👍
This could be handy for upcoming scooby arrivals.
 
Not sure if anyone has updated there spooky LCD to an IPS screen on here before?

I’ve just replaced mine on Halloween. Night and day difference, full clarity of colours and brightness from any standing position. Very pleased with it.

Took 20mins and I was able to use all the stock mounting plate and wiring.

You need two things which total £74

VSDISPLAY HDM I+VGA Input Controller Board Kit LCD Driver Board For B156HAN01.1 LP156WF4 11.6'' 13.3'' 14'' 15.6'' 1920x1080 30Pins edp LCD Screen


AJPARTS UK New Compatible with NV156FHM-N4M NV156FHM-N52 NV156FHM-N4H, NV156FHM-N4V Laptop Screen 15.6” Narrow Bezel/Nano Edge Slim LED LCD 1920 x 1080 FHD IPS Display 30 Pin Matte Panel Non Touch

I’ll put some pics up if anyone needs any pointers etc 👍
I was only looking at that today as saw it on pinside, good to know you can use the original mounting plate.
Had it in the basket then deleted it, will put it in again because I hate the washed out look.
Nice one👍
 
Not sure if anyone has updated there spooky LCD to an IPS screen on here before?

I’ve just replaced mine on Halloween. Night and day difference, full clarity of colours and brightness from any standing position. Very pleased with it.

Took 20mins and I was able to use all the stock mounting plate and wiring.

You need two things which total £74

VSDISPLAY HDM I+VGA Input Controller Board Kit LCD Driver Board For B156HAN01.1 LP156WF4 11.6'' 13.3'' 14'' 15.6'' 1920x1080 30Pins edp LCD Screen


AJPARTS UK New Compatible with NV156FHM-N4M NV156FHM-N52 NV156FHM-N4H, NV156FHM-N4V Laptop Screen 15.6” Narrow Bezel/Nano Edge Slim LED LCD 1920 x 1080 FHD IPS Display 30 Pin Matte Panel Non Touch

I’ll put some pics up if anyone needs any pointers etc 👍
Great to know. I was thinking about this for my ultraman to. Why the use such **** screens in the first place is bizarre. Good luck scooby owners..
 
Please put some pics and pointers up. It's possible this may suit TNA also. Thanks for sharing.
Yes it's the same for TNA. Looked ghastly from factory but fiddling with the brightness and contrast settings improved things quite a bit. Not as good as a new screen but good enough for me since TNA doesn't have much going on there.
 
I don’t think TNA would improve any due to the retro look and basic layout so I’m quite happy to let that one lie.
However it’s amazing what can be done with the stock monitor using brightness / contrast settings alone so well worth tweaking as I was more than happy with my RnM.
Scooby will soon be in my lineup by the sounds of it so I’ll address that one when I see what it looks like.
Like RnM I think cartoon graphics don’t suffer as much as real video clips but we will soon see.
 
So a few pointers and some pictures from how I did it. I didn't take pictures as I went along so there are a few steps without them because I cant reverse where I have stuck the new panel down sadly. I have un done as much as I could and took pictures to help out.

Aside from the two bits I linked above you'll also need some double sided sticky foam pads or similar to secure the new panel to inside the metal bracket. You'll want some thickish ones or double them up as the new screen is very thin and needs padding out a little to bring it to the same distance as the old screen.

Here we go then...


Start by removing the right speaker, the threads holding it down are way too long so you'll spend a good 5 mins undoing those suckers. Move the speaker into the back box for safe keeping.

IMG_3014.jpeg

IMG_3015.jpeg

Disconnect the 12v and HDMI cable.

IMG_3013.jpeg

Next undo the four nuts that hold the screen in.

IMG_3022.jpeg

You’ll need to also remove the lock barrel as that helps hold down the screen bracket.


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Pull out the LCD, you can leave the Perspex in place.

IMG_3012.jpeg


Now you want to do these next steps on a clean flat surface like a desk or worktop.

Disconnect the LCD screen from the LCD controller PCB. Unplug all the wires and unscrew the four screws to remove the PCB.

IMG_3019.jpeg

You can leave the control PCB in place as its identical to the one supplied with the new LCD controller.

IMG_3016.jpeg



Next undo the tiny four screws that hold the old screen inside the metal bracket. You'll find two either side. I've removed them in this picture but these are where they are.

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Take out the screen and put it somewhere safe.



Take the new 30pin EDP cable and plug it into the port on the back of the new IPS panel. Be sure to put it in the right way up, writing side facing up and make sure it clicks in securely.

IMG_3018.jpeg

Next put your sticky pads/tape inside the metal bracket, enough to secure it and evenly spread out in the corners and some in the middle. Take off the backs of the sticky pads so they are ready to have the back of the new screen stuck to them!

Place the new screen in so the bottom edge of the screen is touching the bottom of the bracket and you'll want to ensure its sat perfectly centre with an even gap left and right.
IMPORTANT!!! be sure to have the IPS cable come up and out of the bottom edge so you can bend it over the back of the bracket.

IMG_3005.jpeg


IMG_3007.jpeg

IMG_3009.jpeg

IMG_3006.jpeg

I used some tape to secure the EDP cable to the back of the bracket.

IMG_3010.jpeg


Now if that is all secure, flip it over and install the new LCD controller, I have just screwed mine to one of the existing mounts. If you wanted to you could again use sticky pads or perhaps 3D print a new bracket for it. Just make sure its not touching anything metal which would cause it to short out!
Connect the 30 pin EDP cable into the new controller PCB (Blue tap facing up).

IMG_3011.jpeg


Now you're ready to go fit it back into the machine which is really just reverse of what you did to take it out.
IMPORTANT!!! Remember to remove the IPS screen protector film that it ships with.

Place it back on top of the Perspex, and line up the fixing holes. Screw the four bolts in place. Fit the speaker. Hook up the 12v and HDMI to the new controller PCB.



Turn on and marvel at how good it looks out of the box :)


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FINAL NOTE!!! My Halloween is a later run with the 3.5mm audio lead coming directly from the little PC in the back box straight down to the amplifier. Other spooky games and some of the early Halloween/Ultraman may have the audio extracted through the LCD controller board via HDMI. If unsure chuck up a picture and we can work out how best to solve it.
 
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