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MMr Upgrades

replicas said:
What's all this crap about a holesaw you'll need a fire extinguisher ?
If it's sharp and you take your time and don't force it then it's the correct tool for the job.
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:) I'm just talking from experience pal, its designed for cutting metal. Bearing in mind, i'm not a pin expert but i do know the wood they use looks pretty substantial, well put together.
I was running cables through a building soffit and forgot my auger - I used my HSS hole saw and the heat and smoke generated nearly set the soffit on fire.
I've used hole saws for making holes in wood, it does burn and generate heat.
IMHO, It is not the correct tool for the job
 
Judderman said:
I'd assume you drilled from one side until just the point appeared, then use that spot as the centre for drilling from the other side.
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Excuse the pun :) lol..... but what would the point be with a flat point wood bit that's almost through, you would just continue drilling and be done?
Soon as there's a hole then unfortunately you cannot reliably drill from the opposite side with the flat metal bit as doesn't stabilize.
The shafts on these bits are long enough to go through.
 
replicas said:
You drill a pilot hole so you can drill from both sides.
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When using a flat metal, you really don't want to drill from two sides. 99.9999 % there really isn't any need to.
Get the correct length of shaft. If your pilot hole isn't 100% aligned and you stick that drill bit point in and crack on, your in a world of hurt.
 
Sako-TRG said:
When using a flat metal, you really don't want to drill from two sides. 99.9999 % there really isn't any need to.
Get the correct length of shaft. If your pilot hole isn't 100% aligned and you stick that drill bit point in and crack on, your in a world of hurt.
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Well that just shows how much you know. Bugger all. I'm going to leave it there it's pointless talking to someone that hasn't got a clue what they are talking about.
 
Ooh drill wars, let me play!

Cone bit wrong tool for the job and no good for thick wood, it's designed for thin sheet material and you'll just end up with a cone shaped hole in your plywood.
Flat bit/spade bit will do the job nicely, make sure it's sharp as F and when the point comes through, stop and re-drill from the other side otherwise your wood will splinter when it exits the hole.

A Forstner bit like this: https://www.axminstertools.com/axca...ie6H9ly3G5rn_Neq5wEUnJwmp8qdS89hoCN_sQAvD_BwE is the real deal for a nice neat hole but works best in a drill press.
 
Sako-TRG said:
Excuse the pun :) lol..... but what would the point be with a flat point wood bit that's almost through, you would just continue drilling and be done?
Soon as there's a hole then unfortunately you cannot reliably drill from the opposite side with the flat metal bit as doesn't stabilize.
The shafts on these bits are long enough to go through.
Click to expand...
stops this

20200616_130335.jpg
 
^^^^^^Fair one, damm, i have to go to work now, been called out. No drilling thankfully.
But... all said and done, if it was my pin, id buy a 38mm Auger....I know they are expensive though......
I was checking if I had one to send to you guys but the biggest I have is 22mm
 
Sako-TRG said:
I've PM Hullshark to see if he can cancel the Cone bit due to the wood being thicker than 10mm
Not sure if he was just buying it for general use or needed it for MMr.
@Neil McRae , Screwfix are doing some good deals on wood filler and fire extinguishers :)
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I’m sure you would know and I bet they threw in a new gag book for you [emoji23]

53d492fe2c22f8b571e5b691fe9dcbfb.jpg



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Did I mention DPD failed to deliver the filthy animals!


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Could drill a pilot with a standard drill bit so you can then drill from both sides, with whatever you fancy or you could just spend a few quid on a good auger bit and get a perfect hole drilling once from one side.

Considering how much we spend on these games and upgrades, £20-£30 on a bit that will give you a perfect finish, in the grand scheme of things is nothing.
 
Sako-TRG said:
But... all said and done, if it was my pin, id buy a 38mm Auger....I know they are expensive though......
Click to expand...

The purpose of an auger bit is to remove waste material when drilling very deep holes, think a 6 inch deep hole in a railway sleeper for example. If drilling through 20mm of pinball plywood the tip would be through before the auger part of the bit does anything at all, so unnecessary.
 
Okay - sorry to stop talking drill bits.

As you have upgraded the speakers in the backbox (the CGC MMrm original only came with a pretty average speaker system).

I have fitted one of these in mine:


Dirt cheap. If you have v3 software installed you can go between the 'backbox and sub' balance using your flippers in the 'secret' menu.

Unscrew the old sub, fit this one. Solder it, but remove the mesh (this will hit the sub and sound awful - its not needed). If it really boths you having a grill then you can remove the packer and but it there but I wouldnt recommend.....

These speakers miss the trolls no problem.

The amplifier has a crossover built into the preamp so no need for a cross over on the cabinet.
 
@Neil McRae Just realised that the kits do not include the PCB that we need to get the topper working!

This image from Pinside shows the board I think.

MMr.jpg

My backbox only has 1 PCB in it;

20200617_122634.jpg

I used plastic bags to protect the board and catch dust;

20200617_123013.jpg
20200617_123312.jpg

Now drilling holes, had to move the knocker....

20200617_123007.jpg

More updates soon....
 
Yes I think that board comes with the GI kit. I seem to remember you have to take another option if you don’t take the GI kit.


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yeah i got the box; but its just the display, I know there was a delay with the topper arriving, but I'll have the same issue as Julian I think.

Nobody has the GI by the looks of it.
 
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