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MMr Upgrades

Well the custom screen price from the supplier in Asia isn’t much cheaper - if you think about the volume and the costs it’s not that crazy. And from the POV of buying a Royal edition you don’t lose out compared to the total price.

Neil


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Word of warning with the spade bits - they're cheap, but they will likely rip up the wood around the exit hole with plywood.
I used them when building my VPin, of the 3 holes I did 2 ended up with damage to the wood - I'm not too bothered, as they're either inside the cabinet or underneath it and can't be seen.

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I'd use a hole saw to be on the safe side, much cleaner cut and easier to control.
 
^^^ the hole saw with the HSS metal pilot is designed for high speed metal cutting.
Watch what happens to your wood.
I’m not sure how thick it is on your pin but if around an inch or so it will start to Scorch / burn with the heat.
The cone bit I recommended it designed for low RPM and will cut through any material. It will last a lifetime if you look after it.
I have drilled through lampposts with those things.
 
ChrisH said:
Word of warning with the spade bits - they're cheap, but they will likely rip up the wood around the exit hole with plywood.
I used them when building my VPin, of the 3 holes I did 2 ended up with damage to the wood - I'm not too bothered, as they're either inside the cabinet or underneath it and can't be seen.

View attachment 110833

I'd use a hole saw to be on the safe side, much cleaner cut and easier to control.
Click to expand...

Hmm thanks but I’ve made some holes with these before - you need to sharpen them and/or use a better drill.


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And DPD have ****ed me - useless counts


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Could just use an Auger wood drill bit, they are designed for wood, perfect holes every time.

The problem with flat wood bits is they more often than not always chew up and splinter the exit hole just like @ChrisH showed above.
 
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It’s over 10mm thick.


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J85M said:
Could just use an Auger wood drill bit, they are designed for wood, perfect holes every time.

The problem with flat wood bits is they more often than not always chew up and splinter the exit hole just like @ChrisH showed above.
Click to expand...

38mm wide :)


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wow, I might use that the next time I need to hand out of a DQ :D LOL but still 20 quid.

I think @replicas is the best suggestion over all but I'm going with the flat wood drill bit :D
 
Neil McRae said:
wow, I might use that the next time I need to hand out of a DQ :D LOL but still 20 quid.

I think @replicas is the best suggestion over all but I'm going with the flat wood drill bit :D
Click to expand...
I've PM Hullshark to see if he can cancel the Cone bit due to the wood being thicker than 10mm
Not sure if he was just buying it for general use or needed it for MMr.
@Neil McRae , Screwfix are doing some good deals on wood filler and fire extinguishers :)
 
Pick Holder said:
Flat wood bit, and drill from both sides.
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Sorry, i might be being thick, but can you explain to me please why you need to drill from both sides with a flat bit?
Bearing in mind this is a flat bit that would have a long enough shaft.
Going to the reverse side, surely you risk misalignment if starting a new hole + if the hole is already there you cannot use a flat bit due to its design.
Holesaw definite no no....... fire extinguisher job.
Wait and see how much heat that flat bit generates.
The auger bit will generate way less heat.
 
Sako-TRG said:
Sorry, i might be being thick, but can you explain to me please why you need to drill from both sides with a flat bit?
Bearing in mind this is a flat bit that would have a long enough shaft.
Going to the reverse side, surely you risk misalignment if starting a new hole + if the hole is already there you cannot use a flat bit due to its design.
Click to expand...
Never thought of drilling a pilot hole first
 
Sako-TRG said:
Sorry, i might be being thick, but can you explain to me please why you need to drill from both sides with a flat bit?
Bearing in mind this is a flat bit that would have a long enough shaft.
Going to the reverse side, surely you risk misalignment if starting a new hole + if the hole is already there you cannot use a flat bit due to its design.
Holesaw definite no no....... fire extinguisher job.
Wait and see how much heat that flat bit generates.
The auger bit will generate way less heat.
Click to expand...

I'd assume you drilled from one side until just the point appeared, then use that spot as the centre for drilling from the other side.
 
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