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In Progress Whirlwind vs DE Jurassic Park

This is still work in progress. New EOS flipper switches on order as they need adjusting a bit too often. I've not got the correct security bolts for the backbox lock and I've made my own speaker grill that needs fitting.

For now I'm just playing it .....

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I went in to adjust a switch yet again. The switches on the flipper mechs stick open (I think) and after a squeeze and run through with a bit of cardboard work again for a random number of games.

Whilst I was in there I fitted the Pinsound shaker motor. I had a battle with the t-nuts as the mdf is like concrete.

After 60 or so plays lots of random crap had fallen into the bottom of the cab from the playfield.

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A lot of extra wires to manage now .....

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PinIB said:
The serial number has been deliberately removed
Click to expand...

The same number applied to the cabinet, backbox, electrical components like the transformer, and circuit boards on Williams games off the production line*. Whoever removed the number from the rear of the cabinet may have missed a secret label, hidden on the lower edge of the wooden tilt panel. They definitely missed the transformer label, 574 for Whirlwind, an upper-case 'I' for export, and the number 338960.

Re. the Insert board on Jurassic Park; many Williams/Bally games have a post fixed to the wood to act as a stop for problems like this. Not tall enough to foul the glass, of course, but enough to touch the woodwork before a lamp does.


* though not necessarily for very long; the only Diner that work bought was faulty out of the box, with the clock wheel not rotating. The remedial work attempted at the factory must've been something like 'Try another clock wheel/motor/opto board unit'. "Still the same?" 'Ok, cancel the FCC verification on the cabinet, change the coin labels, acceptors and stuff (or more likely the entire door), then box it up for export instead'
 
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Jay Walker said:
The same number applied to the cabinet, backbox, electrical components like the transformer, and circuit boards on Williams games off the production line*. Whoever removed the number from the rear of the cabinet may have missed a secret label, hidden on the lower edge of the wooden tilt panel. They definitely missed the transformer label, 574 for Whirlwind, an upper-case 'I' for export, and the number 338960.

Re. the Insert board on Jurassic Park; many Williams/Bally games have a post fixed to the wood to act as a stop for problems like this. Not tall enough to foul the glass, of course, but enough to touch the woodwork before a lamp does.


* though not necessarily for very long; the only Diner that work bought was faulty out of the box, with the clock wheel not rotating. The remedial work attempted at the factory must've been something like 'Try another clock wheel/motor/opto board unit'. "Still the same?" 'Ok, cancel the FCC verification on the cabinet, change the coin labels, acceptors and stuff, then box it up for export instead'
Click to expand...

Thanks - that's really useful for getting the rear label redone. I'll try the post thing as I can't break anymore 455 bulbs!
 
Trying to nail the last dozen or so little jobs on JP ......

Fit the lock that was missing:

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Finish the sub speaker grill that was missing:

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Finishing the WW apron whilst we still have cold weather. Using an old one off eBay to measure up.

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This turns out to be a tricky job. I'm all in putting the decals on and a D gets left behind. I have to carefully rescue it and get it correct by hand.

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The detail on these decals is near perfect.

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The switches on the JP trough are playing up so I'm converting it to optos .......

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Soldering up a step ladder.

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Trough switches 1-6 sorted out with a bit of adjustment.

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It turns out switch 7 also needs replacing as well as it's screwing up multiball.
 
Found time to fit bespoke art blades and stickers ......

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Slowly coming together.

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Amazing job on JP. I'd reccomend the comet indicator bulbs for the lamps above the scoops and t rex lights. They look great and much better than white or clear domed LEDs if you want rid of the ugly condom incandescents

PinIB said:
I break my 5th 455 bulb. Nightmare design - when you swing the light board open it squashes the bottom left bulb every time.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure you're missing a piece of wood on the door. I'll check mine when it's set up again, it's just been hammered at the UK open 😛😬
 
David_Vi said:
Amazing job on JP. I'd reccomend the comet indicator bulbs for the lamps above the scoops and t rex lights. They look great and much better than white or clear domed LEDs if you want rid of the ugly condom incandescents



I'm pretty sure you're missing a piece of wood on the door. I'll check mine when it's set up again, it's just been hammered at the UK open 😛😬
Click to expand...

I'll have a look for those indicator bulbs. Yes on the door - I actually remember filling in the old screw holes with filler before sanding and spraying. I don't know why I didn't realise at the time.

This is such an amazing game with the home roms installed. I can't stop playing it.
 
Mine has home roms too, heres some footage from the weekend of it being played, unfortunately no dmd camera:(
 
If you aren't a fan of the blinding flashing GI there's a great board called EnerGI which I have that smooths the led flashes out, it's a bit over the top as you can customise the brightness and fade of each GI string individually if you like.

PinIB said:
I like the bending wireform - mine just has the standard straight one.
Click to expand...

It's from a guy in Australia called David Morrel,he does awesome third party wireforms.
pinball.avidcreations.com.au

Jurassic Park

Jurassic Park (Data East) Pinball Wireforms
pinball.avidcreations.com.au pinball.avidcreations.com.au
 
PinIB said:
That’s got to be worth it on a keeper. LEDs and the multi ball is currently mental.
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100% I love it! It also stops the relay clicking noise during the flashing. It might be apparent on the video from the UK open that the flashing is smoother.
 
A burst of enthusiasm. Striping the top side of the Whirlwind ready for the new CPR.


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The playfield, mechs and even the coils are infested with mill wax!


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Tumbler working 24/7 now on all parts. Walnut shells and autoglym metal polish mix.

From this:

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To this:

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I started to get cold feet about the new playfield so got some advice. Kruzman install kit arrived for preparing to repopulate everything - the guy was super helpful as well.

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A day of rebuilding the mechs.

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Plus I learnt not to put old clear plastic posts in the ultra sonic cleaner on the hot setting. The temperature cracked half of them. Going all new now so I won’t make that mistake again.
 
First proper flipper rebuild in 30 years I reckon judging by the black dust. Just the drop target mechs to go.

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Like Christmas this morning. Fidelity speakers plus a load of other bits. Wiring loom next - currently sat on my JP with zip ties to mark where all the clips go to avoid issues later.

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Hello, a word about the flipper assemblies; if those are the 'new' pattern flipper links, they're likely to break up the 'old' type conical return springs. I had that happen when using this combination.
 
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