biglouieuk
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yup, both work..need a coin box likeDoes it have a coin mech?
Last edited:
yup, both work..need a coin box likeDoes it have a coin mech?
t’s a good catch picking up that it’s the credit sound.
I had never played one until this year's Pinfest... I must of had about 8 games on it and aboluelty loved it, a good first machine mate! You'll learn a lot pretty quickly if you want to, mostly everything I know has come from just constantly reading every tech thread that I can lolThx @MajesticPinball I'm sure we can fix it all up, part of the fun for me is understanding and learning as much as I can. Always a bit of a lottery buying something you don't have any expertise in yet, but that's how we all learn. It's such a brilliant game, family and mates all love it.
Chaps, my intention here is to fix this pinball..Nothing more, nothing less. I found this thread while researching "irritating noise from getaway pinball". I kid you not!
I did have to laugh/shudder when I found this thread.
All help very much appreciated though, really just keen to get everyone playing pinball in my house again!
@biglouieuk where are you based? Sorry you're having a bit of a mare with your purchase. Don't let this put you off.
I'll happily loan you a pin for your party if you're close by? I live in County Durham.
I need to have another look into this then. It could be that the new chips I have for the U13 socket, are not bad, but that its something else at work?The sound fault is a data line/address line problem. The game uses an 8 bit data bus, but this is shared across boards and systems. What you need to check is the larger ribbon cable that goes from the cpu to the fliptronic board (top left) and then over to the sound board. The fault is on either of these 3 boards, or the ribbon cable itself. Start by isolating the fliptronic board (remove ribbon cable) off this board and turn back on.
The fuse issue is others have said is because you most likely reinstalled a ribbon cable incorrectly (1 pin or line out) and not linked to the sound issue.
If you want more help i can take a look and test the boards separately in my own games, to see where the issue is, but this will not be free and will be after christmas now as i'm on hols til 6th jan.
I need to have another look into this then. It could be that the new chips I have for the U13 socket, are not bad, but that its something else at work?
Thank you for coming back to me, cant get over how helpful this community is...So good. Or is it because its Christmas!
Have you slammed that coin door yet and seen if it goes away?
Purchased. Excellent idea..Might be worth getting one of these to make chip pulling easier:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Velleman-V...ords=ic+extraction+tool&qid=1577198331&sr=8-2
I recently had a problem with a sound repeating unexpectedly. Mine turned out to be a poor connection to an opto switch board under the playfield which was intermittently dropping and reconnecting power, which I think was making it seem like an opto switch was being triggered. Spotted it by staring at the switch matrix screen until a switch triggered - fixed by replacing connector.
The door slam was to try and disrupt it being a loose wire. If you want to see if we've got the diagnosis right of it being a coin drop sound... then try setting the game off Free Play. If it's related to the game thinking coins are being added... you'll see credits being added.I'll do some staring shortly..
@Arv slammed some doors..
With door shut matrix
https://photos.app.goo.gl/coPUKtttkNbv6nAw5
With door open matrix https://photos.app.goo.gl/UQanKQFAe2rTCde4A
sounds from another machine, obviously
I just have to say that I'm really, really not a fan of these. If a chip is in a crusty socket (maybe just from age) then I find that these tend to give way on one half of the chip only and you end up levering a ton of pins to either right angles or breaking them off totally. Pulling things free always ends explosively if you need significantly more force than is required to move something normally.Might be worth getting one of these to make chip pulling easier:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Velleman-V...ords=ic+extraction+tool&qid=1577198331&sr=8-2
Optos are inverse behaviour of switches - they're closed when working normally, and go open when blocked by a ball/test device. So they're supposed to be closed at all times.Is that opto made loop supposed to be closed?
This is my usual technique but that chip had no room on the left hand side, so I couldn't get a driver in there. Instead of taking the plug out of the way, I thought to myself, if I do this, it's going to pop out and break the pins on the left hand side...and then promptly pulled the chip to prove myself right. And then I swore alot..I just have to say that I'm really, really not a fan of these. If a chip is in a crusty socket (maybe just from age) then I find that these tend to give way on one half of the chip only and you end up levering a ton of pins to either right angles or breaking them off totally. Pulling things free always ends explosively if you need significantly more force than is required to move something normally.
The best thing is to carefully lever the chip out from the sides with a thin, small flat-blade screwdriver, and to alternate the sides that you're levering from repeatedly. Much more controllable even for really stuck in chips, and you're not going to damage any part of the socket or the chip that is important even with the most aggressive of levering. Levering is also a much more controllable force than pulling for when something finally breaks free.
I feel ya. I hate pulling old chips out of sockets, especially when it's in a tight are like that.This is my usual technique but that chip had no room on the left hand side, so I couldn't get a driver in there. Instead of taking the plug out of the way, I thought to myself, if I do this, it's going to pop out and break the pins on the left hand side...and then promptly pulled the chip to prove myself right. And then I swore alot..
Thank you for confirming that fella. Appreciated.Optos are inverse behaviour of switches - they're closed when working normally, and go open when blocked by a ball/test device. So they're supposed to be closed at all times.
I forget this one all the time, but usually only when I'm not at my computer and when I'm trying to fix the sodding things
EDIT: Just double-checked, that switch matrix is showing up as I'd expect. All those switches on the right are all optos (supercharger optos and it's ramp opto) and the straggler on the left is 'Always Closed' - so hairy muff to that)
As those are just S10 type coin mechs, the switch will be a small wire switch physically below where accepted coins will drop out of the mech. The switch itself may just be worn, or may have been physically caught up as that mech is extremely wobbly for how solidly mounted those are supposed to be.It was the night before Christmas, the Nakatomi building has shots fired and the coin door theory is gathering pace..
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sNrnXbeUjnYD8TVc7
lots of wobbly wobbly in the coin mechs. Coins drop through, I see the matrix fire..and I did notice after the coin door is messed with, I see a switch fire stay on.. I have no sound at the moment because of busted chip, but definately saw it stick on in the matrix, coin dislodged switch....maybe coins through dislodged or messed with it. I do recall there being a coin in the cab when it arrived.
ppl arriving for Xmas drinks, wife requires no messing with pinball now...but I'll look into it tomorrow ..
have a great evening fellas, thank you for all your help and have a wonderful day tomorrow relaxing...
Merry Christmas!