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Very Irritating noise from my Getaway

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t’s a good catch picking up that it’s the credit sound.

Yup, I agree, I couldnt find the sound in the test sounds, so it was like it was "part" of another sound or something...

I'll start with the coin door. Dont see any switches always on, that arent meant to be in test so far...
 
@biglouieuk I seriously hope you get it sorted in the end dude. Don't let this experience ruin pinball ownership for you, there's a lot of WPC experts on here so I'm sure somebody will help get you flipping again soon

P.s There's a gent on here called MrMendit.... Perhaps he could help us?? 😉😉
 
Thx @MajesticPinball I'm sure we can fix it all up, part of the fun for me is understanding and learning as much as I can. Always a bit of a lottery buying something you don't have any expertise in yet, but that's how we all learn. It's such a brilliant game, family and mates all love it. :)
 
Thx @MajesticPinball I'm sure we can fix it all up, part of the fun for me is understanding and learning as much as I can. Always a bit of a lottery buying something you don't have any expertise in yet, but that's how we all learn. It's such a brilliant game, family and mates all love it. :)
I had never played one until this year's Pinfest... I must of had about 8 games on it and aboluelty loved it, a good first machine mate! You'll learn a lot pretty quickly if you want to, mostly everything I know has come from just constantly reading every tech thread that I can lol
 
I would try disconnecting the coin mech in the first instance just to take that out of the equation. Your first pin is always a learning experience. Second and third too.
 
Chaps, my intention here is to fix this pinball..Nothing more, nothing less. I found this thread while researching "irritating noise from getaway pinball". I kid you not!

I did have to laugh/shudder when I found this thread.

All help very much appreciated though, really just keen to get everyone playing pinball in my house again! :)


The sound fault is a data line/address line problem. The game uses an 8 bit data bus, but this is shared across boards and systems. What you need to check is the larger ribbon cable that goes from the cpu to the fliptronic board (top left) and then over to the sound board. The fault is on either of these 3 boards, or the ribbon cable itself. Start by isolating the fliptronic board (remove ribbon cable) off this board and turn back on.

The fuse issue is others have said is because you most likely reinstalled a ribbon cable incorrectly (1 pin or line out) and not linked to the sound issue.

If you want more help i can take a look and test the boards separately in my own games, to see where the issue is, but this will not be free and will be after christmas now as i'm on hols til 6th jan.
 
@biglouieuk where are you based? Sorry you're having a bit of a mare with your purchase. Don't let this put you off.

I'll happily loan you a pin for your party if you're close by? I live in County Durham.

Thanks Phil, thats very very kind of you to offer. I'm all the way down in Kent, and not even I would consider that drive. I did a 100 mile round trip to get a new CPU for the sound board on Sunday to give it a go! :) I got two CPUs from a buddy over there, both "appear" to be dead. Which seems odd because a) amazing buddy, but he did say this can happen b) both failing seems much less likely than just one failing.

So maybe they do work, BUT it's still a cable problem...Buddy has offered a known working chip for U13, which would help me isolate that as the issue :)

Thank you again for your kind offer

Rob
 
The sound fault is a data line/address line problem. The game uses an 8 bit data bus, but this is shared across boards and systems. What you need to check is the larger ribbon cable that goes from the cpu to the fliptronic board (top left) and then over to the sound board. The fault is on either of these 3 boards, or the ribbon cable itself. Start by isolating the fliptronic board (remove ribbon cable) off this board and turn back on.

The fuse issue is others have said is because you most likely reinstalled a ribbon cable incorrectly (1 pin or line out) and not linked to the sound issue.

If you want more help i can take a look and test the boards separately in my own games, to see where the issue is, but this will not be free and will be after christmas now as i'm on hols til 6th jan.
I need to have another look into this then. It could be that the new chips I have for the U13 socket, are not bad, but that its something else at work?

Thank you for coming back to me, cant get over how helpful this community is...So good. Or is it because its Christmas! :)
 
I need to have another look into this then. It could be that the new chips I have for the U13 socket, are not bad, but that its something else at work?

Thank you for coming back to me, cant get over how helpful this community is...So good. Or is it because its Christmas! :)


Its worth trying all avenues of course if you want to experiment, but i have seen this type of issue before. Often the sound being repeatedly called is not actually the give-away or linked, as the data or address line in question just happens to be picking this. The best course of action is to try to isolate to a single board first before changing anything then move forward from there. I actually had a driver board cause this once to and that shouldn't be directly related!! If you dont find the problem there then you can rule them out and move onto other ideas.

One other thing to try is load up the switch matrix test and see if any switches are repeatedly activating (flashing on and off square with a dot in the centre). Flipper cab switches, flipper eos switches etc etc
 
Have you slammed that coin door yet and seen if it goes away?
 
Have you slammed that coin door yet and seen if it goes away?

I haven't. Yet. I don't have any sound at all currently, because I damaged the chip at u13 when I was removing it (because I'm a Nob) and the replacement is possibly not working.

So I have no irritating sound, or infact any other sound, at the moment. 🤘
 
I recently had a problem with a sound repeating unexpectedly. Mine turned out to be a poor connection to an opto switch board under the playfield which was intermittently dropping and reconnecting power, which I think was making it seem like an opto switch was being triggered. Spotted it by staring at the switch matrix screen until a switch triggered - fixed by replacing connector.
 
I recently had a problem with a sound repeating unexpectedly. Mine turned out to be a poor connection to an opto switch board under the playfield which was intermittently dropping and reconnecting power, which I think was making it seem like an opto switch was being triggered. Spotted it by staring at the switch matrix screen until a switch triggered - fixed by replacing connector.

I'll do some staring shortly..

@Arv slammed some doors..

With door shut matrix
https://photos.app.goo.gl/coPUKtttkNbv6nAw5

With door open matrix https://photos.app.goo.gl/UQanKQFAe2rTCde4A

sounds from another machine, obviously 🧐
 
I'll do some staring shortly..

@Arv slammed some doors..

With door shut matrix
https://photos.app.goo.gl/coPUKtttkNbv6nAw5

With door open matrix https://photos.app.goo.gl/UQanKQFAe2rTCde4A

sounds from another machine, obviously 🧐
The door slam was to try and disrupt it being a loose wire. If you want to see if we've got the diagnosis right of it being a coin drop sound... then try setting the game off Free Play. If it's related to the game thinking coins are being added... you'll see credits being added.

If not then that's something else we can consider...
 
Might be worth getting one of these to make chip pulling easier:


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Velleman-V...ords=ic+extraction+tool&qid=1577198331&sr=8-2
I just have to say that I'm really, really not a fan of these. If a chip is in a crusty socket (maybe just from age) then I find that these tend to give way on one half of the chip only and you end up levering a ton of pins to either right angles or breaking them off totally. Pulling things free always ends explosively if you need significantly more force than is required to move something normally.

The best thing is to carefully lever the chip out from the sides with a thin, small flat-blade screwdriver, and to alternate the sides that you're levering from repeatedly. Much more controllable even for really stuck in chips, and you're not going to damage any part of the socket or the chip that is important even with the most aggressive of levering. Levering is also a much more controllable force than pulling for when something finally breaks free.
 
Is that opto made loop supposed to be closed?
Optos are inverse behaviour of switches - they're closed when working normally, and go open when blocked by a ball/test device. So they're supposed to be closed at all times.

I forget this one all the time, but usually only when I'm not at my computer and when I'm trying to fix the sodding things

EDIT: Just double-checked, that switch matrix is showing up as I'd expect. All those switches on the right are all optos (supercharger optos and it's ramp opto) and the straggler on the left is 'Always Closed' - so hairy muff to that)
 
I just have to say that I'm really, really not a fan of these. If a chip is in a crusty socket (maybe just from age) then I find that these tend to give way on one half of the chip only and you end up levering a ton of pins to either right angles or breaking them off totally. Pulling things free always ends explosively if you need significantly more force than is required to move something normally.

The best thing is to carefully lever the chip out from the sides with a thin, small flat-blade screwdriver, and to alternate the sides that you're levering from repeatedly. Much more controllable even for really stuck in chips, and you're not going to damage any part of the socket or the chip that is important even with the most aggressive of levering. Levering is also a much more controllable force than pulling for when something finally breaks free.
This is my usual technique 🙂 but that chip had no room on the left hand side, so I couldn't get a driver in there. Instead of taking the plug out of the way, I thought to myself, if I do this, it's going to pop out and break the pins on the left hand side...and then promptly pulled the chip to prove myself right. And then I swore alot.. :confused:
 
This is my usual technique 🙂 but that chip had no room on the left hand side, so I couldn't get a driver in there. Instead of taking the plug out of the way, I thought to myself, if I do this, it's going to pop out and break the pins on the left hand side...and then promptly pulled the chip to prove myself right. And then I swore alot.. :confused:
I feel ya. I hate pulling old chips out of sockets, especially when it's in a tight are like that.
My dislike of the IC puller is from bitter experience bending dozens of pins to nasty angles using it. I only risk using it on brand new sockets, or sockets that I've already pulled the chip from a few dozen times and the chip is coming out really cleanly and easily anyway.

It's a wash if you know the chip is dead however - emphasis on know!
 
Optos are inverse behaviour of switches - they're closed when working normally, and go open when blocked by a ball/test device. So they're supposed to be closed at all times.

I forget this one all the time, but usually only when I'm not at my computer and when I'm trying to fix the sodding things

EDIT: Just double-checked, that switch matrix is showing up as I'd expect. All those switches on the right are all optos (supercharger optos and it's ramp opto) and the straggler on the left is 'Always Closed' - so hairy muff to that)
Thank you for confirming that fella. Appreciated.
 
It was the night before Christmas, the Nakatomi building has shots fired and the coin door theory is gathering pace..

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sNrnXbeUjnYD8TVc7

lots of wobbly wobbly in the coin mechs. Coins drop through, I see the matrix fire..and I did notice after the coin door is messed with, I see a switch fire stay on.. I have no sound at the moment because of busted chip, but definately saw it stick on in the matrix, coin dislodged switch....maybe coins through dislodged or messed with it. I do recall there being a coin in the cab when it arrived.

ppl arriving for Xmas drinks, wife requires no messing with pinball now...but I'll look into it tomorrow ..

have a great evening fellas, thank you for all your help and have a wonderful day tomorrow relaxing...

Merry Christmas!
 
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It was the night before Christmas, the Nakatomi building has shots fired and the coin door theory is gathering pace..

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sNrnXbeUjnYD8TVc7

lots of wobbly wobbly in the coin mechs. Coins drop through, I see the matrix fire..and I did notice after the coin door is messed with, I see a switch fire stay on.. I have no sound at the moment because of busted chip, but definately saw it stick on in the matrix, coin dislodged switch....maybe coins through dislodged or messed with it. I do recall there being a coin in the cab when it arrived.

ppl arriving for Xmas drinks, wife requires no messing with pinball now...but I'll look into it tomorrow ..

have a great evening fellas, thank you for all your help and have a wonderful day tomorrow relaxing...

Merry Christmas!
As those are just S10 type coin mechs, the switch will be a small wire switch physically below where accepted coins will drop out of the mech. The switch itself may just be worn, or may have been physically caught up as that mech is extremely wobbly for how solidly mounted those are supposed to be.

Merry Xmas to you as well, see ya later on...
 
I learnt something, so in case it helps someone else who finds this later on...

The two 'dead' chips from my buddy...are not MC68b09ep, as required, they are MC6809 and probably not dead, just not correct! I did think having two failed from the get go was strange.. I didn't release the chip must be an exact match on the type for this cpu. More info on the link.

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=68B09E

Hopefully handy for someone later.

Anyway, I was a bit drunk last night and bought a pinsound for the new year. But I do want to get this chip in and solve these issues before I swap that in. Be good to know it's working sound board

Shot of the two different chips IMG_20191225_074524__01.jpg
 
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