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Spooky - Rick and Morty Pinball

Overall very impressed.
Few issues: turned down subwoofer as shaking it to bits, portal of topper broken off, doesn't always launch off top of plunger Lane.
 
ianw said:
Overall very impressed.
Few issues: turned down subwoofer as shaking it to bits, portal of topper broken off, doesn't always launch off top of plunger Lane.
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I have had the launch issue once or twice but it seems to have settled down on its own. I have tamed the vibrations a lot by simply replacing the glass with a sheet of @Neil McRae Super Inviviglass as its slighty thicker. However I still get a little rattle so will address further at some point and maybe try dial in the sub a little more but I love the TNA esk Bass Line when it kicks in so dont want to lose that too much.
 
I couldnt get Neil's glass to fit, wouldnt go up fair enough to get the lock down bar to fit
 
Colywobbles said:
I have had the launch issue once or twice but it seems to have settled down on its own. I have tamed the vibrations a lot by simply replacing the glass with a sheet of @Neil McRae Super Inviviglass as its slighty thicker. However I still get a little rattle so will address further at some point and maybe try dial in the sub a little more but I love the TNA esk Bass Line when it kicks in so dont want to lose that too much.
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The shooter lane is possibly the worst designed shooter lane in history. Mine plagued me for weeks and I spent hours tweaking it until I got it 99% reliable. Pinball life actually made a replacement for the wireform but took it off sale after lots of moans that it should be replaced by spooky for free.
 
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kevlar said:
The shooter lane is possibly the worst designed shooter lane in history. Mine plagued me for weeks and I spent hours tweaking it until I got it 99% reliable. Pinball life actually made a replacement for the wireform but took it off sale after lots of moans that it should be replaced by spooky for free.
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I think JJP Pirates could be in the running for that title too - mine works fine for manual plunge but I still can’t get auto launch working consistently which isn’t ideal for a multiball heavy machine. Its a shame Pinball Life took a better replacement off sale, I agree that Spooky should be replacing if the part is faulty but I’d rather pay than not be able to get it at all.
 
Neil McRae said:
if spooky are using their own boards it will be interesting to see if they reduce the price after they put it up when they started using proc.
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Still can't believe they didnt get a decent discount after how much they promote the proc board and how many they buy. Of course you could argue they did and still hiked the price, but i dont buy that as spooky's ethos jsut doesn't fit with that. P3 games should have a strap line on them with 'subsidised by spooky' ...
 
And American pinball too I think!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
AlanJ said:
With the recent chat about scorbit - does R&M have it built in?
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No but they are going to add it to the code. On TNA they have done an epic deployment of it with all types of data about nodes and multi balls in it.
It needs a Scorbit board as no onboard Wi-fi I think.
Neil.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
I checked the settings - nothing about scorbit or wifi. Looked at the board, cant see wifi in there either. There looks to be a slot on the motherboard where you can plug in a wifi module.

Oh well. Scrap that idea
 
kevlar said:
You only have to run the code twice if you have very early code, I doubt yours will need it ran twice. I'll go check tho..
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I think you're probably right - it says you only need to run it twice if updating from 2020.03.17 or earlier and ours def haven't been sitting in a container that long! Misread 2020 as 2021...
 
Just got back from unboxing it and setting it up at my mates place. Great looking game and enjoyed the few games I had but it definitely isn't easy. Very funny though with the swearing on 100%,, great custom callouts. Absolutely love the ball ejecting from the lower left scoop the second you hit it into the portal, very cool.

Only had a few problems so far:

- The game was booting to the PC splash screen instead of launching the software initially, but found a disconnected power cable at the bottom of the cabinet which fixed that.

- Spooky must test the games with the volume on zero because the bass was just ridiculous at first, completely distorted the audio. Played around with the amp settings and got it sounding good but there's still a bit of glass rattle. Hoping that invisiglass fixes the issue otherwise I'll be buying some anti rattle tape.

- The green portal for the topper won't stay on the motor. Its obviously designed so that you put it on and tighten a screw to keep it in place, but the screw doesn't tighten, just spins. Weirdly it does screw in when I take it off the motor though. Either way think I'm just going to secure it with some gorilla glue when I get the chance.

- I'm getting quite a bit of flipper knockdown, particularly on the lower right flipper when balls were ejecting from the scoop. I've seen posts on Pinside re this issue so will look into it before I next go over.

Other than that it seems to be working well - no major issues with the loops or the ball launch guide. Just a shame I won't have it at home for a little while!

Edit: What did you other guys do with the leg protectors that @philpalmer sent out? I received four metal and four felt protectors, but the machine already had metal protectors already installed so just used the felt...
 
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JustLikeMe said:
- I'm getting quite a bit of flipper knockdown, particularly on the lower right flipper when balls were ejecting from the scoop. I've seen posts on Pinside re this issue so will look into it before I next go over.



Edit: What did you other guys do with the leg protectors that @philpalmer sent out? I received four metal and four felt protectors, but the machine already had metal protectors already installed so just used the felt...
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For me same - right flipper dies when the scoop ejects and worse the left flipper dies when the pop bumper above it kicks off. Can you post a link tp the pinside thread - couldnt find it - please.

I just used the felt ones too!
 
Adjust your flipper eos switches guys, they need to be made just prior to the end of the flippers travel. Also adjust hold strength in settings if needed. The only thing the eos switchs do on this machine is re-energage the power when they get knocked down, so the closer to the end of the flippers stroke the better.
 
AlanJ said:
For me same - right flipper dies when the scoop ejects and worse the left flipper dies when the pop bumper above it kicks off. Can you post a link tp the pinside thread - couldnt find it - please.

I just used the felt ones too!
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I'll see if I can dig out the posts tomorrow, I'm sure they were in the main R&M thread somewhere. For now it's time for some beers and Stranger Things seeing as I don't have the game home yet.

kevlar said:
Adjust your flipper eos switches guys, they need to be made just prior to the end of the flippers travel. Also adjust hold strength in settings if needed.
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Good shout, I'll check the EOS switches when I'm next there. I adjusted the hold strength to high for both bottom flippers but was still getting knockdowns so hopefully that's the culprit. Had to turn the flipper power up a bit to reliably make the left ramp - @kevlar what strength do you have the flippers at?
 
I have flipper strength on 35 and hold on medium. I had a few messages with Karl Deangelo after seeing how easilly he made the left ramp, he recommended keeping hold power to medium in an attempt to keep temps down ( thus power up). Knockdowns are really more to do with the eos adjustment.
Another thing, you may or may not have noticed the flippers are sat a bit too high so the ball only really touches the bottom of the flipper rubber. The reason being the through playfield bushing is too long because the playfield wood is a little thinner. Some pinsiders have cut the bushings down a few mm. Charlie is getting some made the correct size and will send them out to anyone who requests them. He said that a few months ago, warning it would probably be a few months before he sorts them out. I'll message him again now and ask again.
 
Ok Stage 1 set of clear plastic protectors finished and fitted.
The small Noob noob one should now have a little protection as it’s a break that’s just waiting to happen.
I’ve made these in 2mm clear as the GI is colour changing and the clear works best and kinda pops on the edges too which is a bonus.
Anyone interested just shout they are £17.50 a set inc P&P

Col

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