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GI not working

could be a loose connection have you tried replacing the fuse ? if it comes back on don't play a game just yet maybe have a wiggle of the wires see if it blowd the fuse again you will notice in my pic pin number 10 and 11 are now red and black wires this is because the pins solder had cracked and been arcing and burned the pads off the board this was a repair I did 10 years ago
 
Yes replacing the fuse allows me to go back to the start again, the board is outputting 8.6v to both upper lights pin 5 and 11 and lower lights pin 4 and 10 when no lighting is connected, when the upper lights are plugged in this measures 6.5 volts with lights on. plugging in the bottom lights and the measured output through the connector is zero and as you would expect no illumination. This would seem to indicate a fault in the lower circuit but disconnecting all the lamps and both lines test through for continuity and no short circuit and as I mentioned with the lamps reconnected the lower light work when connected to and in place of the upper lights. my head hurts :rolleyes:
 
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so if you plug the lower lights into the high light plug do they work? don't plug the high light in and try the game If that works OK then I think you may have a dry solder joint that only shows up under load the motherboard in these machines are used on many games if you have a wiring diagram there is more than likely a feed you could use that's unused in t2 (don't all start on the bodging repair narrative) when I'm back from work I'll have alook in my manual
 
@robtherich i had the exact same problem with my AFM a few years back. It’s a very simple, professional and permanent fix. Remove the board, get the headers replaced by a professional, get the connectors replaced by a competent person - your head will no longer ache and your pin will be back up and safely running 👍
 
Just fix it properly.

Remove the power driver board.
Replace the pins on j121 and j120 with new pins.
Repair any burnt out traces.
Replace the connectors using trifurcon crimps.

Then it will be good for 20+ years.

Anything else is a bodge that will keep causing problems and creating new ones.
 
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Many thanks again everyone, just to sum up I'm very much of the mindset of fixing things properly and not looking to bodge anything up!!! I'm just confused by the fault as it doesn't follow the logic I'm used to but to be fair not much ive encountered as an electrician is use with a 34 year old pinball.. in reply to Keith1 yes plugging the lower light into the upper light output (pin 5 and 11) lights them up, ill reconnect it like that leaving the upper light disconnected and see if it plays ok and doesn't cause any more fuse blows, thanks for your help once again.
 
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@Nevin does any board repairs for me that are beyond my capabilities, I post it off and it's back within a week with any previous repairs redone if necessary plus faults found and fixed
 
also check j115 this is the gi light feed from the power pack you we be able to trace from there and just to add j120 and j121 1 to 11 are in series so in affect they are the same so if you swapped them 2 plugs round and have no problem then the fault would be been on the pins 4,5,10,11 it's worth taking the board off and solder reflow all the gi light pins on j115,j120,j121 take photos of where all the plugs are before you take them off
 
Just fix it properly.

Remove the power driver board.
Replace the pins on j121 and j120 with new pins.
Repair any burnt out traces.
Replace the connectors using trifurcon crimps.

Then it will be good for 20+ years.

Anything else is a bodge that will keep causing problems and creating new ones.
This ^^^^

The GI circuits are really quite straightforward as long as bodge clutter isn’t involved.
 
For pete's sake, the connectors J 120 and 121 are in parallel; each of the five G.I. circuits can tap from either of them to suit whether they're for the playfield or back box. A special case is Dr. Who, which has the circuits split between both, so each connector has a full set of wires.

If we're trying to cover all eventualities, bear in mind the ribbon cable between the Cpu and Power Driver boards; five lines in that control the G.I circuits. After all, they don't light up until the Cpu is running. If one circuit driver persistently won't work, the Cpu may have lost connection to it.
 
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