Asiapinball
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Thicker wire is used typically for power circuits solenoids and gi and that is usually 18 awg. Thinner wire is used for switch circuits and that is usually 22 awg. For the gi circuits you need 18awg 0.156" connectors.
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GI not working
- Thread starter robtherich
- Start date
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-contacts/6794723 is what you want. Good for 7A instead of the 6A in the black high temp IDC housing.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs/6795098?gb=s are suitable housings, you can also buy longer ones and trim them as needed.
Ideally, you'd want the fancy crimper https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-tools/2056013 for this but that is way overboard for a few plugs (but very nice to use). Plenty of alternatives, e.g. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-tools/7106499?gb=s for an original Molex tool. I use https://www.pressmaster.se/products/#crimping mostly with an open barrel insert. Great for all kinds of crimps as you can change inserts around.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs/6795098?gb=s are suitable housings, you can also buy longer ones and trim them as needed.
Ideally, you'd want the fancy crimper https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-tools/2056013 for this but that is way overboard for a few plugs (but very nice to use). Plenty of alternatives, e.g. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-tools/7106499?gb=s for an original Molex tool. I use https://www.pressmaster.se/products/#crimping mostly with an open barrel insert. Great for all kinds of crimps as you can change inserts around.
This is a popular crimper amongst pinheads . Pinball Mania used to sell them , not sure he still has them on his site
OP
OP
Many thanks drhex and Sgt GrizZ that's so helpful ill let you know when I get it fixed, I wonder what the latest feeling is on replacement bulbs with LED's it was a hot topic on here 5 or so years ago, I can understand the benefits of lower current flow but wonder what the consensus is these days ?
ok here is an update so ive repaired the gi lighting removed the temp connectors and also removed the other play field plug that was burned up I removed the pins from the board and soldered new wires directly in there place and then using a auto plug kit I already had I made up new plug connectors
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Opinion differs but I think those who prefer incandescents do so because it's how they remember the games looking.
I think when comparing a game lit tastefully with Comets in the GI the incandescents look awful, a horrible orange glow which doesn't do much for the artwork of a lot of games.
You can't really go wrong with a mix of comets depending on the game artwork. It'll brighten the game up and let the artwork shine
also regarding the plugs they are yellow green purple and the other 3 are white with yellow green purple markings the only difference is the full colour is 1 side of the play field and the white is the other side so if you swapped the plugs it would just mean the righthand fuse would be protecting the left side
OP
OP
Success, my parts arrived and I quickly have the playfield full of light !! many thanks to everyone for the advice and especially drhex for the kind offer.
Now I will try to fix the lower lights on the backbox GI, looks like it could be the same fault on J120 although it shows no sign of overheating like J121 did .
Now I will try to fix the lower lights on the backbox GI, looks like it could be the same fault on J120 although it shows no sign of overheating like J121 did .
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if you look at your new plug pin 4 and 5 and 10 and 11 are the same as j120 on the board they are on the same tracks look at the pic of the rear of my board so you could move the j120 wires to your new plug saving you getting another plug
You'd be risking burning out the through board pins if you load 2 feeds through one, the tracks might be able to take it but I suspect the solder joint wouldn't.
you miss understand I didn't mean load 2 onto 1 j121 the unused pins 4,5,10, 11 are the same as j120 all I suggested was he could move the 4 wires from j120 and use his new plug at j121 all he would be doing is using 1 plug instead instead of 2 plugs no increase in load
To change the socket and plug cost less than £5. I’m confused, why do things differently than how it came out the factory. It lasted 30 years!!!
What are you saving. If anyone wants to remove the light panel (back board) they can’t unplug it because the wires are not on its own plug.
One stop pinball sell these parts. I purchased loads from him at Pinfest last year.
It’s quicker to do the job correctly.
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it's not about not fixing it properly it's just another option that's all if for instance his pins on the board where damaged and he didn't feel confident in soldering his motherboard it's another option to get his lights working
No, it is not another option to link the backbox and playfield harness in one plug, that is keeping you from dismantling the pin if needed. We generally joke about operators messing up pins and bring them back to how they used to be from factory (or better). Please don‘t entice people to do inferior repairs.
entice people! inferior repairs ! ffs it was just a possible fix for some one as I said who didn't want to or couldn't solder there motherboard so then there choice is to play with the lights missing or call a repairer in at know doubt stupid money for 4 wires ! and when is the average owner going to take there pin to peace's don't worry about it I won't post anymore "fixes "
(not by me lolol)
A repairer wouldn’t be stupid money - it would be money well spent and more importantly it would be a safe & lasting repair.
A temporary repair or bodge would be unsafe and eventually fail & devalue the game.
Both are options but only one of them is the sensible one.
OP
OP
Hey everyone I appreciate the different points of view and many thanks for your continued comments.
So having been trying to get the lower back box GI lit I am confused at my observations, measuring between pin 4 (white/orange) and pin 10 (orange) is 8.6v but with the wires connected is zero, disconnected the continuity is fine to the end of circuit. swapping the lower side as above (pin 4 (white/orange) and pin 10 (orange)) with the upper side GI (pin 5 white brown and pin 11 brown) allows the lower circuit to work fine so I can't understand why it won't light when connect to the lower side of the board. any suggestions much appreciated !
So having been trying to get the lower back box GI lit I am confused at my observations, measuring between pin 4 (white/orange) and pin 10 (orange) is 8.6v but with the wires connected is zero, disconnected the continuity is fine to the end of circuit. swapping the lower side as above (pin 4 (white/orange) and pin 10 (orange)) with the upper side GI (pin 5 white brown and pin 11 brown) allows the lower circuit to work fine so I can't understand why it won't light when connect to the lower side of the board. any suggestions much appreciated !
OP
OP
Actually yes and no
plugging in the low wires (WO & O) in J121 pin 5 and 11 lit all of the backbox but a short play and when the extra ball celebration was awarded the fuse above the connector F110 (7A) blew
Highlnder00
Site Supporter
Actually yes and no
F110 Goes to pins 7 and 1!
Wire colours and pin positions are! you are counting from wrong end!
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