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GI not working

robtherich

robtherich

Registered
5Years
Joined
Dec 11, 2015
Messages
100
Location
epsom surrey
Hi everyone, it’s been a long time since I posted anything here but good to be back and rekindle my pinball interest!

My old friend T2 has the right-hand GI out and my limited repair skills have led me to this, do you think this is the likely problem? Many thanks in advance.
 

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Many thanks for your reply is that the likely point for the GI right hand side? and what is the likely cause?
 
Use Trifurcon crimp pins when replacing and do the other GI connectors at the same time. Reason is that these pins and IDC connectors aren't really rated for the current requirements of the GI with incandescent lamps. The tin on the pins flakes with age which increases resistance, that causes the plugs to heat which degrades the tin further, at some point the plugs burn up. It is fundamental to replace the pins and connectors as only replacing the connectors will make them burn up again shortly.
 
my t2 was the same when I get home from work later I take a pic of the repair I did its worked fine ever since
 
can't get pic to upload don't know why buy what I did was cut the burnt part of the plug off and used a block connector it fitted on to the pins perfectly then just fitted the wires into the connector
 
Nothing about purists not liking it but usually the solder connections for the pins are damaged as well which will burn up your board next. This needs proper repair I am afraid, especially if you continue using incandescent lamps.
 
Whilst I agree replacing the connector , the crimps and the header pins is the optimal repair , the reality is unless you are leaving your games on for hours and hours each day I suspect the chances of heat issues is fairly minimal going forward .
If the header pins look fine I’d happily leave them alone, just replace the connector .

Remember when these games were originally out on site they could be switched on for 12 hours continuously every day .
 
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Many thanks everyone for all the info its very helpful, I understand the principles of resistance and can even remember the formula for calculating total resistance which includes capacitive reactance and inductive reactance🤣 its amazing what you remember that's pointless !! . Truth is that despite being a sparky for more than 30 years i'm more intimidated by the electronics in a pinball than working on a live 3 phase circuit. but before I formulate a plan is that burnt connection @ J121 the likely cause of the right hand GI not working?
Keith it would be interesting to see your fix.
Many thanks once again.
 
Hello,

The manual for T2, though such documents aren't always entirely accurate, lists the r/h playfield illumination as being assigned to the 'Yellow' drive circuit, No. 3. So the circuit is wired using Yellow and White-yellow wire. For playfield use, the take-off is J 121, pins 3 & 9. If it had been a backbox Insert circuit, it would've used the connector above, J 120, in parallel and with the same pin-outs. So you could check by pulling the White-yellow wire out of the burnt connector (it's no use as it stands), cutting it back to an undamaged clean wire, and placing it in contact with pin 9 of J 120.
 
And as alluded by @Jay Walker these connectors are keyed the same and aren't always on the right header. Please fix it properly without screw blocks or similar stuff, you will regret it whenever work is needed. I have plenty of trifurcons here, you are free to grab some and borrow the crimper if needed. PM me if you want to take me up on this.
 
drhex said:
And as alluded by @Jay Walker these connectors are keyed the same and aren't always on the right header. Please fix it properly without screw blocks or similar stuff, you will regret it whenever work is needed. I have plenty of trifurcons here, you are free to grab some and borrow the crimper if needed. PM me if you want to take me up on this.
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Many thanks, will do👍
 
ok so now it uploads ok so the 6 wires in the pic are the left and right table general lights so I resoldered the pins on the board and as a temporary fix I used a block connector as you can see the yellow wire is getting hot so lm planning to remove the plug completely and solder the wires directly to the pins
 

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Please don't do that, while it may work it will effectively keep you from removing the board. Also, there is a good chance that the compromised pins will still heat the board and ruin your traces. Fix it properly, it isn't that hard (or get someone to do it).
 
Fit a new connector to the wire! It’s very easy , I picked up a crimp pliers from eBay for around a tenner, the crimps are pennies and the new connectors less than a pound, they also provide a better connection. The one below to the left also needs doing
 
I can fix it properly or I may fit a different mutiplug as I said the block was a temp fix that as been fine for 5 years to be fair the original plug is a glorified scotch lock and we know how **** they are
 
That is why you get Trifurcon bronze pins, a halfway decent crimpers and high temp housings, replace the header and this will be good forever without a nasty hack which the next guy will have to fix. Obviously your machine, you can do what you like but please don't recommend it as the right way forward, it just isn't.
 
Yes, but that isn't strictly needed if you have the pins with the higher swept area (and/or LEDs). Just can't fathom why people buy machines worth thousands and then skimp on a few tens to fix stuff correctly.
 
I didn't recommend it as the correct fix the original post asked about the gi so just said what I did I have no intention of selling my pin had it 18 years it was a fix to get it working at that time that I've left alone as it as given me no trouble since
 
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