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Why remote battery holders are a good idea

Sgt GrizZ

Sgt GrizZ

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Just had bong bong bong 'Adjust Failure' on Whirly.

Opened up to check batteries and .............

IMG_7546.JPG


Found this b*gger had decided to go postal. Date on them ...Mar 2024 :eek:....weren't changed that long ago , I had been installing Lithiums to minimise chance of leakage but didnt in this case.....hmmmm not good. No damage done but just shows you. Most of my games now have remote holders thankfully.

Check those batteries people.
 
I've installed NVRAM's in all of my games as I can't trust batteries (I spend many of my days fixing peoples corroded CPU boards :eek:)

Unfortunately Duracell are the most counterfeited batteries on the planet, so you run an exceptionally high risk of leakage with fake Duracell's (that you probably even bought from a legit outlet!)
 
This is only what I have read but isn't the problem with alkaline batteries also the fact that they release gasses when leaking and that the confined space of a back box means the gasses attack your boards also ?
Also lithium batteries do not attack the metal they are incased in and so won't leak ?

This was all from reading posts on probably pinside, but it seemed the consensus at the time
.
 
lukewells said:
fake Duracell's (that you probably even bought from a legit outlet!)
Click to expand...

That's interesting, I always replace my batteries at Christmas and last month my Hyperball wouldn't boot up due to the batteries. It maybe that I missed that particular machine but I doubt it (I used to be really sad and stick a bit of masking tape with the date on them) and they had a long date on them. They would have all be brought from B&Q or Screwfix as well so no market trader or ebay stuff!
 
Matt Adams said:
That's interesting, I always replace my batteries at Christmas and last month my Hyperball wouldn't boot up due to the batteries. It maybe that I missed that particular machine but I doubt it (I used to be really sad and stick a bit of masking tape with the date on them) and they had a long date on them. They would have all be brought from B&Q or Screwfix as well so no market trader or ebay stuff!
Click to expand...

Matt I have a feeling these duracells came from B&Q. I remember picking up a big offer pack at the till.
 
Monkeyboypaul said:
I usually buy ProCells (from CPC). Anyone had bad experiences with those?
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Until I stopped using batteries, I bought the Procell Duracell's from Farnell (same as CPC) Never had one of those leak!

Theoretically they are the same as the consumer gold top Duracell, but the counterfeiters don't make procell rip offs, as there is no market for them, no one knows that procell are.
 
Punk Stig said:
What is it on pinball tables that makes batteries leak so much?

Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

They get heated up and cooled down a lot so over a period of time it will expose any manufacturing defect. Batteries are so mass produced that (at a guess say) perhaps 1 in 10 have a slight manufacturing defect which would go un-noticed with normal everyday use but once heated up and cooled down on several occasions... that's before we get in to the world of fakes.
 
mission65 said:
This is only what I have read but isn't the problem with alkaline batteries also the fact that they release gasses when leaking and that the confined space of a back box means the gasses attack your boards also ?
Also lithium batteries do not attack the metal they are incased in and so won't leak ?

This was all from reading posts on probably pinside, but it seemed the consensus at the time
.
Click to expand...
I`ll like to know about that aswell, apart from my sterns all of mine are on remote battery holders
 
And another reason ...
image.jpg
Had factory reset on diner ..ops!
I bought a big pack of batteries last year to do a few games..
Diner is in the games room 2 (integral garage with heating) and this happened
Easy fix new battery holder :rolleyes:
TAF & STTNG are in games room 1 (in the house ,more warmer )
And batteries are perfect ,so it could be the temperature the games are kept in that can course the batteries to do this maybe :hmm:
 
lukewells said:
NVRAM fitting party coming soon. I'll announce it on the forum the next free weekend I have
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Remind me the NVRAM prices please, and which systems they're compatible with? I will probably take the plunge and get all my games kitted out too, especially if you do bulk discounts.

I'm more confident now than I was before so I could probably put sockets in where needed. Link to some summary of what's involved perhaps?

£3 a year in new batteries would be paid for after a few years with this replacement - and no more worrying about leaks ever again. Do these things hold the saved data for at least a year?
 
+1 on what Dan said. I have had some of my machines for over 10 years and don't really intend on selling most of them.

As well as Dan's questions do they fit all makes of games?

Matt.
 
I'll be submitting an RFQ to the factory tonight, so I'll be able to give you the latest pricing very soon. I'd like to offer them a little cheaper than before if possible as I really would like to encourage everyone to use these instead of batteries. I do practice what I preach, and I have installed NVRAM's in around 30 of my machines so far.

Yes can do bulk prices

Data retention is "theoretically" forever, there is no battery inside like old NVRAM's used to have, and there is no need to power up the machine at any regular interval.


I can do the following system :-

Sega - Plug and play

Stern (Whitestar) Plug and play

Data East - requires you to solder 1 jumper wire

Williams/Bally WPC89/WPC-S/WPC95 - Requires the old RAM desoldering and a socket fitting in most cases

Bally 6803 - Plug and play

Bally MPU-AS-2518 (Bally Classic) - Plug an play - you should have socketed RAM

Bally Altek Replacement (fits most versions up until they included NVRAM)

Stern MPU 100 - Plug and Play

Stern MPU 200 - Plug and Play (requires 2x NVRAM)

Williams System 11 - Requires old RAM desoldering and a socket fitting in most cases

Williams System 7 - Plug and play

Williams System 3-6 (in testing)

Bally 6802 (Fireball Classic / Cybernaut) (in testing)

Gottlieb System 80b (in testing)



Most cases are plug and play, the most notable exception is Williams WPC and System 11, where in most cases you would need to desolder the RAM.


As some people are not comfortable desoldering the RAM on the CPU board, I will soon be offering an "NVRAM Party" where you bring your CPU boards to me, and you get to play the pins in my cabin and your boards are done while you play (orginally at @RGV request)

As there are a few interested, it will be more like a pinball meet tbh
 
Just ordered 30 energiser ultimate Lithiam batteries. With next day delivery from Amazon.

Didn't really look hard. They are cheaper on EBay but as mentioned there are fakes out there and I think I picked up some dodgy Duracell a while back. 50 for £20. They are in my cat flap and it doesn't last long.
 
Dave Bishop said:
Just ordered 30 energiser ultimate Lithiam batteries. With next day delivery from Amazon.

Didn't really look hard. They are cheaper on EBay but as mentioned there are fakes out there and I think I picked up some dodgy Duracell a while back. 50 for £20. They are in my cat flap and it doesn't last long.
Click to expand...
I think I'll go that route then, ebay does look a bit 'back of a lorry" thanks for the advice mate :thumbs:
 
I have a TZ that could do with this treatment. New here - great source of info


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Agree with what some others have said - lithium all the way! I use the Energizer AA's which are available just about anywhere these days. Better to buy in bulk off eBay if you have a few games though.

The problem is though that somewhere down the line, whoever owns the game after you, will probably just put standard alkaline AA's in when the lithium's need replacing. So it's a good idea to combine a remote battery holder with lithium's.

Ultimately though the best option is to go with NVRAM.
 
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