What the hell was he doing with that drill? My brain hurts just trying to figure out what the deal is with the three playfields. Presumably he's just going to glue the new one on top. Yes, that would make sense.
[emoji20] Feeling your painI internally groan when I open this thread.
Power and DMD boards back from a service.
If you recall, noise went away when ribbon cable was detached from DMD board.
DMD board a bit burny, but not faulty.
Power had some 20v and 5v issues, caps replaced that were bit bulgy etc, won't go into that.
Power and DMD back in. Noise persists.
@myPinballs kindly sent down a DMD and CPU of his for me to swap for diagnostic.
DMD now in. Noise persists.
I'll move on to swap the CPU board in to see if the pinled new board, is more sensitive than originals and doesn't like something that another board is doing...
I popped the ribbon off the fliptronics board, but kept it on the DMD, to see if it was something in that board tweaking things. Still got the sound.
We continue.. in a structured manner (I wonder if it's the bloody ribbon cable!)
After CPU, we can pop in the pinsound..to test if it's a sound board problem..
I internally groan when I open this thread.
Power and DMD boards back from a service.
If you recall, noise went away when ribbon cable was detached from DMD board.
DMD board a bit burny, but not faulty.
Power had some 20v and 5v issues, caps replaced that were bit bulgy etc, won't go into that.
Power and DMD back in. Noise persists.
@myPinballs kindly sent down a DMD and CPU of his for me to swap for diagnostic.
DMD now in. Noise persists.
I'll move on to swap the CPU board in to see if the pinled new board, is more sensitive than originals and doesn't like something that another board is doing...
I popped the ribbon off the fliptronics board, but kept it on the DMD, to see if it was something in that board tweaking things. Still got the sound.
We continue.. in a structured manner (I wonder if it's the bloody ribbon cable!)
After CPU, we can pop in the pinsound..to test if it's a sound board problem..
From my days of PC modding - there are round cables available, but it was more to do with maximising airflow in a case than for reliability, which is somewhat redundant in a backbox. Ultimately the termination points are still loads of little pins, and that is where the weak point is. As I understand it ribbon cables have a finite number of pulls in them before they start getting flakey.Probably being naive, but why hasn't someone come out with a better ribbon cable yet? Like, a round one?
Limited number of unplugs is because of the ****ty IDC (insulation-displacement connector) design. Literally just smash the wires onto a fork/scissor per pin. You get a whopping whole two razor edges worth of contact per pin. Marvelous.From my days of PC modding - there are round cables available, but it was more to do with maximising airflow in a case than for reliability, which is somewhat redundant in a backbox. Ultimately the termination points are still loads of little pins, and that is where the weak point is. As I understand it ribbon cables have a finite number of pulls in them before they start getting flakey.
PC technology ditched IDE cables a long time ago, so ribbon cables are a dead end technology.
Pins like Alien, Stern SPIKE use RJ45 connections which are far better for this sort of communication.
Hi,
Glad the boards package arrived ok. So, can i confirm that you swapped my dmd driver board in place of yours and the sound fault is still there, but if you remove the large ribbon cable the sound fault stops still.
The next step is to swap the cpu board as we discussed before. (and you mention above)
We will get to the bottom of this! Have no doubt
A note on the ribbon cabe. I doubt this is the problem as its a parallel cable and the one you have i believe is a pinball heaven remake one
@myPinballs your CPU is in place (thank you again!), with your supplied ROM, MPU and RAM in it ... and running. No irritating noise (IN) on start up, as often the case. I have run it for 20 minutes in full play with NO noise. Have been into menu where there was often the IN . Cant trigger it so far.
If you agree, I suggest I run this for a few hours play (well it is Friday!!) and see if we can trigger the noise.... If we get the IN back, I will re-install my board and see if it comes back (we may have just re-seated a dodge connection with all this action!)
If my board doesn't create the IN, then...dunno... if we do get IN, should we swap a RAM chip from yours to mine? I dont have the tool for MPU so wont be touching that..
All the best
Your intrepid field operative
BL
Agree with this, but be careful as tracks may run on the surface of the board under the chip. I cut through a track on my BK2K when doing this The trick is to only insert the screwdriver enough to get under the edge of the chip.I just have to say that I'm really, really not a fan of these. If a chip is in a crusty socket (maybe just from age) then I find that these tend to give way on one half of the chip only and you end up levering a ton of pins to either right angles or breaking them off totally. Pulling things free always ends explosively if you need significantly more force than is required to move something normally.
The best thing is to carefully lever the chip out from the sides with a thin, small flat-blade screwdriver, and to alternate the sides that you're levering from repeatedly. Much more controllable even for really stuck in chips, and you're not going to damage any part of the socket or the chip that is important even with the most aggressive of levering. Levering is also a much more controllable force than pulling for when something finally breaks free.
I am confused here. I thought the CPU was a brand new Pin Led board. how could that have caused the problem?Agree with this, but be careful as tracks may run on the surface of the board under the chip. I cut through a track on my BK2K when doing this The trick is to only insert the screwdriver enough to get under the edge of the chip.
He’s talking about his own experience. @DAD isn’t the OPI am confused here. I thought the CPU was a brand new Pin Led board. how could that have caused the problem?
Doh!He’s talking about his own experience. @DAD isn’t the OP
I am confused here. I thought the CPU was a brand new Pin Led board. how could that have caused the problem?
So not exactly a fault as such. I expect it did not help with the guy removing the chips on it. I must be careful with games I replace the CPU with. Is there any way to tell a specific game will cause a problem?Timing issue with new boards parts vs old board parts, variations with types of 74 logic ics hct, vs hc vs ls etc , or an old asic with some issues. It may be one of those things where a certain combination of boards is required to trigger it and that it doesnt occur in all games. As was shown above swapping the cpu board for an original cpu board and leaving all the other boards the same stopped it.
He is banned isn't he?
Removing the sound board chip and replacing it had no effect at all.So not exactly a fault as such. I expect it did not help with the guy removing the chips on it. I must be careful with games I replace the CPU with. Is there any way to tell a specific game will cause a problem?
Maybe the ASIC that was put in the new pinled board was the old one from the original 300 quid machine he got and not a new one? Hard to say as the seller hasn't offered advice regarding that since the group here started to work through the issue.I am confused here. I thought the CPU was a brand new Pin Led board. how could that have caused the problem?
If you have questions it might be worth starting a new thread so people with the answers can find that directly, instead of posting on another threadI am completely confused now. I have a TOM and am thinking of buying a Dracula that has battery leakage. I would buy a new CPU Are you saying that new CPU's are not always compatible with some games? If so does anyone have a list of what is good for what machine?
I am completely confused now. I have a TOM and am thinking of buying a Dracula that has battery leakage. I would buy a new CPU Are you saying that new CPU's are not always compatible with some games? If so does anyone have a list of what is good for what machine?