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Taf flipper

Somebody with too big a soldering iron. I only have the Fliptronics II schematics, I think they are the same on the driver side but please make sure we're looking at the right transistor. Take the board out and trace from pin 4 please.
 
No beeps from pin 4 to any q points
It looks in a really bad shape this board does
 

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OK, if you look at the back you can see the track from pin 4 to Q7 - if you can't measure continuity this is broken somewhere. Easiest way to fix is to solder a cable - right way is to find the break and fix it. Do you have a halfway decent soldering station? Where in the country are you otherwise?
 
Should be D22 according to my schematics but that doesn't matter. This is the freewheel diode which protects the transistor when the power to the coil is switched off. Other end of the diode should go to 50V.
Looking at your photo I see a trace from pin 4 to the middle pin of Q7 (its collector). That is probably broken somewhere. That is the first thing to fix. Also, measure continuity across Q7 the middle and top leg as per your photo 2306 above. If this has continuity we need to fix the transistor first or you'll burn up the coil. Please be ready to switch off immediately in case something gets hot after fixing the trace/reinstalling the board, the control transistor or U2 could be broken, too. It is a good idea to immediatly lift the right flipper after switch on to see if the coil has conntinous power - if the flipper stays up, switch off immediately.
 
Was thinking on getting a replament board is this a good idea seeing mine has had a lot of previous repairs and looks nasty
 
That is OK. Find the break in the trace I pointed out to you earlier and fix that. Will probably work again afterwards. An easy way is to put one probe on the pin and then go along the trace at points where the solder mask is off already. WIll stop beeping at some point, that is after the break. We can probably point out where it is if you put a photo up showing it.
 
This is the pin which has orange/violet? If you look at the photo above of the underside of the board you see a trace heading off to Q7 from the fourth pin from the right. That should be the one.
 
Ok, so that is there. And you had continuity to the left lug from pin four, correct? So next thing is to test the transistor. Put your am in beep mode, put one lead on the leftmost pin of Q7 with legs towards you and “TIP102” right way up. You should now either measure open or continuity (may be .5V instead of a beep) to both of the other legs. Putting the other lead on pin 1 should reverse this, eg either continuity 1-2 and 1-3 or nothing. If this doesn’t happen Q7 is shot and needs to be exchanged.
 
glyn davies said:
Was thinking on getting a replament board is this a good idea seeing mine has had a lot of previous repairs and looks nasty
Click to expand...
If you decide this route, I have a good second hand one.

Dont stop digging, however just saying that board has seen much better days (i.e. before someone hacked at it!) :(
 
Sorry no, the three legs on the transistor. From left to right 1-2-3. Put your lead on leg one the other lead on two, then on three. DMM should show the same result, either .5V (the transistor is conducting) or open circuit (the transistor is blocking). Now reverse the leads, i.e. remove the one you had on one, put the other one on and repeat. Result should be the reverse. A transistor is really two diodes put together. Common leg is the “base”, in your case leg 1. As the diodes have their positive or negative lead together, putting a positive voltage on base will make it conduct, putting a negative on will make it block. This is what we are doing here. If there is continuity between 2 and 3 or one of the other links conducts in both directions or not at all the transistor is broken and needs replacing.
 
Black on pin one left sude red mid= 1.
Red on right = 1.
Black on pin 3 right leg red on mid = 1.
Red on left leg = 665
 
Ok red on left, black on mid or right is 0.665?
Can you send me a photo of the meter showing “1”? Is that the same indication you get if the leads are disconnected? Sounds like the transistor is OK.
Please check the other connections of Q7:
Leg 1 (left) should connect to Q15 via R15 and D3. Check D3 with your diode test, no conductivity “1” in one direction, .5V the other way
Leg 3 (rightj should connect straight to ground.
We already established that leg 2 goes to pin 4

Next step is to measure voltage on leg 1 (the left one) of Q7 with the pinball on in flipper test with holding coil on and off.
Put the board back in.
Put the pin in flipper test mode
Put the meter on DC volts auto, if you dont have that 100V.
Put the black lead under the ground braid in the backbox and touch the red lead to leg 1. Note reading
Enable right hold coil
Touch red lead to leg 1 again and note reading

With the coil off, you should have 0V
With the coil on, you should have 5V

If this isn’t the case we have to suspect Q15, U2 or there is no signal from the CPU.

You can also test the latter and the whole circuit by grounding leg 15 of U2 with a cable. Coil should energize. Legs are counted anti clockwise from the dot.
 
Red left bkack mid = 591
Red left black end leg 662
Yes the 1 is same as both leads not conected
 
Board back in im getting 00.1 on leg one
 

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As in no matter if the coil should be enabled or disabled?
We’re trying to find out if the voltage controlling the coil arrives at Q7.
Please do the other steps from my last post if you haven’t done so yet.
 
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