Well atleast even in its normal state it looks awesome
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Powder coating - safe?
- Thread starter Durzel
- Start date
Well atleast even in its normal state it looks awesome
Not sure i agree - in my personal opinion removing the dmd panel would be a faff as there's a little plaque on there and presumably some hinges, the barrel lock, screen etc. plus if it's a glossy colour it could easily draw attention away from the lovely translite artwork a bit. Legs, rails and lock down is very easy to do, and really frame the cabinet & particularly the playfield nicely, complimenting the right game. Hinges also look good, and probably the trickiest bit of the process (though not really tricky at all).
TopTip: don't install mirror blades before doing powder coating your backbox hinges, as you need to access the little hinge bolt which will be sitting behind them on the Stern cabinet. Powder 1st, Blades 2nd.
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mipinballrefinery.com
Powder coating is surely safe if done by people who know what they are doing. I wonder if these guys would be happy sharing some techniques which could be passed on to a UK company, I’m sure they would get enough work from forum members.
They were helpful when i asked what colours they used for Iron Man and Metallica.
Just to clarify I was on about his custom lazer cut speaker panel not the standard one
Spider sense is tingling...
Great tip, jeez wouldn’t have thought of that.
If you don’t mind me asking matey :-
- Where did you buy your lollipop armour rails for your Metallica
- what’s the colour code for your Metallica (Purple)
- It looks like the guy your using to powder coat has the skills to do the job. What was his turn around time - I’m assuming he’s based down South, can you share details?
Cheers
Cadbury's purple (see post #34).
No, i don't mind at all & you're not the 1st to ask either
- Where did you buy your lollipop armour rails for your Metallica
Some flash buggers prefer this type: https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/...0/side-rails-for-metallica-2-piece-set?c=2347
- what’s the colour code for your Metallica (Purple)Cadbury purple. Don't know the RAL code.
- It looks like the guy you're using to powder coat has the skills to do the job. What was his turn around time - I’m assuming he’s based down South, can you share details?
http://raw-wheels.co.uk/ based just south of York, 10miles north of me, or about 150 miles South East of you (in DG12?). About £10 an item, thereabouts.
I'd expect any powder coating service near you would do a similar job though, this was their 1st and possibly only 'Pinball' job.
Awesome - cheers mate, that’s really helpfulNo, i don't mind at all & you're not the 1st to ask either
- Where did you buy your lollipop armour rails for your Metallica
Some flash buggers prefer this type: https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/...0/side-rails-for-metallica-2-piece-set?c=2347- what’s the colour code for your Metallica (Purple)
Cadbury purple. Don't know the RAL code.
- It looks like the guy you're using to powder coat has the skills to do the job. What was his turn around time - I’m assuming he’s based down South, can you share details?
http://raw-wheels.co.uk/ based just south of York, 10miles north of me, or about 150 miles South East of you (in DG12?). About £10 an item, thereabouts.I'd expect any powder coating service near you would do a similar job though, this was their 1st and possibly only 'Pinball' job.
The purple looks awesome on MET
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The pictures don't do it justice - It genuinely looks even better in person, really happy with it.
Gents,
After doing a bit of research and speaking with my local powder coater, here’s some useful info:-
Main reason for warping:-
I got my Powder Coat Guy to media blast the hinges and legs and then use chemical striping of the Stern Black Crinkle finish using Methylene Chloride on the side rail armour and lock down bar to play it safe.
Don’t try and powder straight over the Stern existing finish as the powder won’t bond properly, really needs the bare metal to give better result otherwise it gets messy.
I found this is the safest way to prevent any kind of warping.
Hope this helps.
Some pics attached.
After doing a bit of research and speaking with my local powder coater, here’s some useful info:-
Main reason for warping:-
- Wrong size / type of media used during blasting causing impact damage
- Too close to metal work during blasting causing heat and impact damage
I got my Powder Coat Guy to media blast the hinges and legs and then use chemical striping of the Stern Black Crinkle finish using Methylene Chloride on the side rail armour and lock down bar to play it safe.
Don’t try and powder straight over the Stern existing finish as the powder won’t bond properly, really needs the bare metal to give better result otherwise it gets messy.
I found this is the safest way to prevent any kind of warping.
Hope this helps.
Some pics attached.
That looks incredible! Great colour choice
I do not see any reason why information needs to be passed from Pinball refinery to a UK powder coater.
The good guys know what to do.
As with decaling a cabinet - it is preparation. Stated earlier on this page - the stern finish needs blasting off first.
Have used a couple of companies in Birmingham for powder coating and had great results on custom chassis for guitar amplifiers.
Not sure on having coin doors and speaker panels done....
The good guys know what to do.
As with decaling a cabinet - it is preparation. Stated earlier on this page - the stern finish needs blasting off first.
Have used a couple of companies in Birmingham for powder coating and had great results on custom chassis for guitar amplifiers.
Not sure on having coin doors and speaker panels done....
@Pick Holder I also messaged Steve at Pinball Refinery as I was curious....he was kind enough to respond with some helpful info:
They don’t use chemical stripping (due to regs in US) and don’t use blasting to remove the Stern Finish as the primary removal method to mitigate warpage. They bake off the original coating at 800 degree Fahrenheit.
They don’t use chemical stripping (due to regs in US) and don’t use blasting to remove the Stern Finish as the primary removal method to mitigate warpage. They bake off the original coating at 800 degree Fahrenheit.
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Great post - how much did the full set cost? I'll be doing mine soon...
I bought a NP75 powder coating gun to use with my compressor and an old 900mm range cooker so I could powder coat myself. Here's a couple of quick answers to earlier question on this thread.
The most important thing is to have the job totally clean, I know that sounds obvious but unless it's absolutely scrupliously done the coat will lift. I had to get all the bits I coated shot blasted in the end the cost of that made the whole exercise pointless, you live and learn.
Once you apply the charged coating the work needs to be heated to 180C for twenty minutes, that's what can warp things. I also could not do rails with my size oven (you can tell the this whole project was a beer driven idea). The paint powder also goes everywhere so recovering it is a swine too, small bits or work are fine, you can spray into a box, but long pieces are difficult.
Is it worth getting done? Definitely, the coating goes on at least 8 times thicker than paint and it should not chip or flake. You can even get quite a good chrome now. The cost I pay is around £70 for the door, rails, lock bar and hinges, it's easier to get a deal with more bits as they charge hardly any more for adding to the job. All the pieces will need a hanging point, like a hole for suspending them in the oven.
Last point is that some things don't fit back so well due the the paint thickness so watch out for buttons and the like.
Hope this helps.
The most important thing is to have the job totally clean, I know that sounds obvious but unless it's absolutely scrupliously done the coat will lift. I had to get all the bits I coated shot blasted in the end the cost of that made the whole exercise pointless, you live and learn.
Once you apply the charged coating the work needs to be heated to 180C for twenty minutes, that's what can warp things. I also could not do rails with my size oven (you can tell the this whole project was a beer driven idea). The paint powder also goes everywhere so recovering it is a swine too, small bits or work are fine, you can spray into a box, but long pieces are difficult.
Is it worth getting done? Definitely, the coating goes on at least 8 times thicker than paint and it should not chip or flake. You can even get quite a good chrome now. The cost I pay is around £70 for the door, rails, lock bar and hinges, it's easier to get a deal with more bits as they charge hardly any more for adding to the job. All the pieces will need a hanging point, like a hole for suspending them in the oven.
Last point is that some things don't fit back so well due the the paint thickness so watch out for buttons and the like.
Hope this helps.
Candy red - for my IMDN
Ready to go... not sure what backing colour to go with...
Ready to go... not sure what backing colour to go with...
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D
Deleted member 2463
waking this thread up a little.
How are folks coping with the lockdown bars that have metal accoutrements riveted to them, see pic below - are you removing that before, if so how without bending the thing to hell? I guess I'd need a riveter to put it back on? any recommendations?
and do the power coaters take of the black stern crap that they have on pro/premium?
I'm going to get my GOTG done.
Neil
How are folks coping with the lockdown bars that have metal accoutrements riveted to them, see pic below - are you removing that before, if so how without bending the thing to hell? I guess I'd need a riveter to put it back on? any recommendations?
and do the power coaters take of the black stern crap that they have on pro/premium?
I'm going to get my GOTG done.
Neil
+1, I had the same thoughts the other day.
Neil, I was looking to use that coater in Aldershot that was posted on here and did a great job. Might be sensible to get these done together? There are a few machines I'd like to do if the first is successful.
D
Deleted member 2463
I’m going down tomorrow but I’ve got a few other games to do - so I could be test for rails then we could get a bunch done together.
Neil.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
but I’ve got a few other games to do - so I could be test for rails then we could get a bunch done together. Neil.
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The coater should be able to blank that plate off before coating the lock down bar. Means under neath won’t be coated and could be a dodgy join etc.
I would just drill the rivets out from behind and then reattach after. Make sure to get you coater to bung the holes though
I would just drill the rivets out from behind and then reattach after. Make sure to get you coater to bung the holes though
D
Deleted member 2463
Think I’ll remove it
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Neil, any decent powder coating company will insist on prepping the job, be it rusty or new paint that needs removing. The one I use beadblasts the job, they are clean as a whistle prior to the powder going on. I stopped doing home powder coating simply because the prep is everything.
The plate could stay on as it can be masked from the powder. It will flow up the edges effectively burying the plate slightly when it’s heated though that may look quite decent. One for your preference.
Mark
The plate could stay on as it can be masked from the powder. It will flow up the edges effectively burying the plate slightly when it’s heated though that may look quite decent. One for your preference.
Mark
Old powder will come off as part of the service
Rivets are a doddle to take off and re- rivet.
I would certainly not leave plate on - no way.
I have 2 rivet guns at home with a box of rivets various sizes - cheap as chips
Rivets are a doddle to take off and re- rivet.
I would certainly not leave plate on - no way.
I have 2 rivet guns at home with a box of rivets various sizes - cheap as chips
D
Deleted member 2463
yeah I pinged Robert on pinside he said the same.