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Night Moves by Gottlieb Help! Not Booting.

Yep - Jim knows his stuff . If you don’t want to spend time ,money and possible frustration on repairs then you may be better off just future proofing the game by getting one of his improved 80B MPU boards. I have my NM running on one 👍

Other thing to check besides the MPU is the grounding . Notorious on these for causing issues . Lots of advice online , check the Pinwiki site.

 
Paul said:
Karloz hasnt been here since May22, so they might not see your message....

Yes that board doesnt look great. Most of that corrosion is the reset circuit.

@myPinballs is the expert on these, having designed and producing a replacement board - i suspect he is best placed to comment - is there any way to get a closer pic of that area at all?
Click to expand...
I did see that he has been offline for a few years, but I do appreciate you catching my message! I tried to send a full high res photo on my first post but was denied due to size. Here's a closeup of that area....
 

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I wouldn't even bother trying to sort that as the corrosion will just spread. Just get a new CPU.... again, speak to Jim Askey.
 
DS77 said:
I did see that he has been offline for a few years, but I do appreciate you catching my message! I tried to send a full high res photo on my first post but was denied due to size. Here's a closeup of that area....
Click to expand...

Classic little bit of System 80 battery corrosion there, easily repairable if you know electronics and soldering. I would get the battery off the board as soon as possible to help reduce the corrosion spread.

Information on how to do this can be found here:

Gottlieb System 80 - PinWiki

www.pinwiki.com www.pinwiki.com

If you are not versed in electronics then you can buy new or working boards:
Jim's can be found here:

An alternative can be found here:

eBay can be a good source for mpu's.
 
Moonraker said:
Classic little bit of System 80 battery corrosion there, easily repairable if you know electronics and soldering.
Click to expand...

Probably worth highlighting this part, otherwise the corrosion will just return:

After all the effected electronic components are removed, the board must be treated. This process starts by sanding the traces and solder pads until shiny copper is exposed. It is worth mentioning that a battery damaged board can be treated by bead blasting instead of sanding, however, most people do not have access to such a machine. After the copper areas of the board have been either sanded or bead blasted, an acidic bath of 50% vinegar and 50% (preferably distilled) water is applied to the board. A small brush like a toothbrush can be used to scrub the board's area. The purpose of introducing an acid to the effected area is to neutralize what the battery has left behind. The liquid and fumes from the battery are actually a base, not an acid. Next, rinse the area of the board with water. Once the board is clean, isopropyl alcohol (the higher the alcohol percentage the better) is applied to the same area to rinse away the acid bath, and hopefully dissipate any remaining water. Finally, the board is either blown dry or air dried. This may be a given, but DO NOT ATTEMPT TO APPLY POWER TO THE BOARD IF IT IS STILL WET! Most liquids are conductive to some extent. After the previous steps are performed, the task of installing the new components begins. If any traces or solder pads were damaged, see the Repairing Traces portion of this Wiki guide on to to fix them.
 
Moonraker said:
Classic little bit of System 80 battery corrosion there, easily repairable if you know electronics and soldering. I would get the battery off the board as soon as possible to help reduce the corrosion spread.

Information on how to do this can be found here:

Gottlieb System 80 - PinWiki

www.pinwiki.com www.pinwiki.com

If you are not versed in electronics then you can buy new or working boards:
Jim's can be found here:

An alternative can be found here:

eBay can be a good source for mpu's.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all of those links. I appreciate your help and the others for the very fast responses! I hope to have a positive update for you all in a matter of time....
 
DS77 said:
Hey there! New user here.

I just picked up this machine and am seeing the same corrosion nearby the battery on mine. Just curious if you were able to get yours up and running.. seeing this post was from a few years ago, I'm sure it's a shot in the dark.

Haven't gone through the full troubleshooting guide yet, but noticed this pretty quickly when inspecting the machine.... everything else looks pretty solid.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Paul said:
Karloz hasnt been here since May22, so they might not see your message....

Yes that board doesnt look great. Most of that corrosion is the reset circuit.

@myPinballs is the expert on these, having designed and producing a replacement board - i suspect he is best placed to comment - is there any way to get a closer pic of that area at all?
Click to expand...

Yep i have new cpu board available if you need one. It's the best and simplest way to get a dead game going again. 99% of the time it will bring the game back up and the display will come back to life. Think the last 3 night moves on here were back going with new cpu boards from me..

Also the usual checks should be performed

- stable 5v from the psu, psu board replaced/rebuilt. I have new 5v psu boards to if needed
- ground upgrades to the transformer panel. later 80b games are not as bad here so might be ok here, but doesnt hurt to upgrade anyway.
- check connector condition and pins for all switch matrix connectors and the driver interconnect
- driver board usually ok, but should also be checked in case something nasty locked on etc.
 
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myPinballs said:
Yep i have new cpu board available if you need one. It's the best and simplest way to get a dead game going again. 99% of the time it will bring the game back up and the display will come back to life. Think the last 3 night moves on here were back going with new cpu boards from me..

Also the usual checks should be performed

- stable 5v from the psu, psu board replaced/rebuilt. I have new 5v psu boards to if needed
- ground upgrades to the transformer panel. later 80b games are not as bad here so might be ok here, but doesnt hurt to upgrade anyway.
- check connector condition and pins for all switch matrix connectors and the driver interconnect
- driver board usually ok, but should also be checked in case something nasty locked on etc.
Click to expand...
Hey guys - just an update.... I sent my board out and had it repaired along with having the 2032 battery installed in replace of the OEM (it was tested as functional before being sent back). Unfortunately, I'm not getting any further than I did prior to having it sent out. Machine powers on, most of the lights on the playfield illuminate in addition to the coin slots. No sounds, no display.

I pulled all the fuses and they have tested fine w/ my multimeter. All of the grounds are connected tight.

Before pulling all the boards and checking the edge connectors, I was going to test the PSU to ensure 5v was being sent, but I'm not exactly sure the best place to test this would be. I'm not seeing anything marked 5v on the PS itself... unless I should test off one of the boards. Obviously, it is not the easiest machine to get a close look at most of it...

I have referenced the PinWiki Guide, and it's quite a bit to digest for someone that's a little newer to the pinball side (have experience w/ arcade machines).... hoping that you'd be kind enough to give this guy a little additional advice.

Thanks!
 
DS77 said:
I did see that he has been offline for a few years, but I do appreciate you catching my message! I tried to send a full high res photo on my first post but was denied due to size. Here's a closeup of that area....
Click to expand...

Can you take another close up photo of the battery area? I would like to see what rectification work was carried out...

Best place to test for 5v on the board is the positive leg of the big blue capacitor next to the J1 connector.
 
DS77 said:
Hey guys - just an update.... I sent my board out and had it repaired along with having the 2032 battery installed in replace of the OEM (it was tested as functional before being sent back). Unfortunately, I'm not getting any further than I did prior to having it sent out. Machine powers on, most of the lights on the playfield illuminate in addition to the coin slots. No sounds, no display.

I pulled all the fuses and they have tested fine w/ my multimeter. All of the grounds are connected tight.

Before pulling all the boards and checking the edge connectors, I was going to test the PSU to ensure 5v was being sent, but I'm not exactly sure the best place to test this would be. I'm not seeing anything marked 5v on the PS itself... unless I should test off one of the boards. Obviously, it is not the easiest machine to get a close look at most of it...

I have referenced the PinWiki Guide, and it's quite a bit to digest for someone that's a little newer to the pinball side (have experience w/ arcade machines).... hoping that you'd be kind enough to give this guy a little additional advice.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Gottlieb System 80 - PinWiki

www.pinwiki.com www.pinwiki.com

You can test for 5v at the pins of connector J2 on the 5v power board .

2A04A442-07CE-4D76-9EF1-FAC8BD254B8D.jpeg
 
Power check and decent grounds obvious checks first as mentioned above by many people, which should have been already done before the repaired board was even plugged in... Bad voltage and grounds can kill things again and you are then chasing your tail..

Broken record trying to help people with these games. Honestly the amount of times a repaired original board just isn't worth messing about with as they are just worn out. anyway, check your 5v and grounds!! I am not trying to be a sales man either!!
 
Moonraker said:
Can you take another close up photo of the battery area? I would like to see what rectification work was carried out...

Best place to test for 5v on the board is the positive leg of the big blue capacitor next to the J1 connector.
Click to expand...

Attached the photo. I did some testing with him last night and have found that I am getting 5v at the power supply, but when the connectors to the MPU are connected, it's dropping down to 3v, and does not fire up the board.

If only the connector for J1 or J2 is connected, it remains at 5v and the display actually comes on.

To answer questions to others that have recommended getting a new board or how this one was tested, he connected this board in his own machine to verify that it was functional after removing the old leaking battery and it worked.

Before I go down the path of checking connectors and grounding (again), any other words of advice based on what I've provided above with the voltage dipping down to 3v? More specifically which wiring harness(es) to start with....
 

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DS77 said:
Attached the photo. I did some testing with him last night and have found that I am getting 5v at the power supply, but when the connectors to the MPU are connected, it's dropping down to 3v, and does not fire up the board.

If only the connector for J1 or J2 is connected, it remains at 5v and the display actually comes on.

To answer questions to others that have recommended getting a new board or how this one was tested, he connected this board in his own machine to verify that it was functional after removing the old leaking battery and it worked.

Before I go down the path of checking connectors and grounding (again), any other words of advice based on what I've provided above with the voltage dipping down to 3v? More specifically which wiring harness(es) to start with....
Click to expand...

The repair looks good and you've confirmed that by saying that you have displays with J1 and J2 connected, so the problem is not with the MPU. Your problem is with one of the connections through J4, J5 or J6. J5 and J6 are the switches and I would see if the game will boot with J1, J2, J5 and J6 connected. If it does then your fault lies with the driver board.
 
Moonraker said:
The repair looks good and you've confirmed that by saying that you have displays with J1 and J2 connected, so the problem is not with the MPU. Your problem is with one of the connections through J4, J5 or J6. J5 and J6 are the switches and I would see if the game will boot with J1, J2, J5 and J6 connected. If it does then your fault lies with the driver board.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feedback @Moonraker . I tried again and connected everything but j4, no luck. The 5v current dropped down to 3.5v.

At this point I'm only able to have J1 or J2 connected by themselves to get the power to stay near 5v and for the display to fire up.

Looks like I'll need to go pin by pin on J4, J5 and J6.
 
Connect J1, J2 and J4 only and see if it boots. If does power down and add J5 then try again. Then power down and swap J5 for J6. You should be able to determine which connector or connectors are causing the issue before needing to work through pin by pin.
 
Hey everyone, just wanted to provide another update. After going through a number of the pins, I saw no issues with them. I found a guy semi-local and had a replacement power supply sent to me.... once I connected it, the machine booted and everything lit up! Was able to successfully test all components on the playfield and enjoyed a few games. Want to thank you all for your comments/suggestions...
 
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