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Nice Under Machine Storage??

I made a load of boxes from plywood.

I worked out how big i could make them from a sheet of ply with minimal waste, then went to B&Q and gave them a cutting list ( they cut for free) then went home and assembled them. Fitted castors to the bottom, handle to the front, and hinges for the lid


20240524_065556.jpg20240524_065718.jpg
 
Davey D said:
I made a load of boxes from plywood.

I worked out how big i could make them from a sheet of ply with minimal waste, then went to B&Q and gave them a cutting list ( they cut for free) then went home and assembled them. Fitted castors to the bottom, handle to the front, and hinges for the lid


View attachment 252355View attachment 252357
Click to expand...
Still got that cutting list handy @Davey D ??? That looks like an awesome idea!
 
I think we have some very good ideas here, that someone could sell to an audience who pay over the top for things. ;)
@Davey D, I would also be interested in the spec list, as making those is the sort of thing I like doing.
 
Calimori said:
I think we have some very good ideas here, that someone could sell to an audience who pay over the top for things. ;)
@Davey D, I would also be interested in the spec list, as making those is the sort of thing I like doing.
Click to expand...
I just like the fact i can go to B&Q, take a piece of wood off their shelves, get them to cut it to measure and then play self-assembly at home putting it together!!! :)
 
I don't enjoy going to B&Q, I avoid it and my local wood merchant doesn't seem to do cutting. But I have a large table saw and can dial it in to cut sheet material easily enough.
 
Got mine from B&Q too, but the cutting room was out of action, I rough cut with the jigsaw then tidied up the edges with a router against a straight edge of wood.
 
This is how i had the pieces cut. You could always make it a little taller depending on how high your machines are set. At the front, my machines typically have around 15mm of thread (including the nut) screwed out from the leg


Cutting list.jpg


And then a set of 4no. 50mm swivel castors (70mm overall height) like this



Castor.jpg


These are the hinges that i used (3 hinges per box)

www.diy.com

Brass-plated Metal Flush Door hinge N162 (L)50mm (W)50mm, Pack of 2

These brass effect metal cranked flush hinges are suitable for use on small cupboard/louvre doors. Fixings supplied for quick and simple installation.
www.diy.com

And then on the inside corners for strength i used 15mmx15mm strips of pine to help nail & glue it all together

I used a colour stain on the boxes to make them look a bit nicer, and then stick you choice of handle on the front
 
Calimori said:
I really like that idea for the keeper games.
Click to expand...

Big downside would be the cost of a full set of decals, also they have to be trimmed for the smaller box, for the simple WW artwork it worked out ok, but something more complex may get tricky, thinking about it, getting some big Stern/Bally/Williams logo decals made up might work well, if games get swapped out wouldn't matter so much.
 
@Davey D

Your boxes are great. I’m looking for plastic container alternatives myself

1 question I have since upgrading the TNA system is that items underneath and also if the game is next to another or on the end with some space can dramatically alters the bass / sound from the cabinet
IE, when the game is on the end with ample space the sound is the best. In between 2 games in have to lower the frequency as it starts to resonate and distorts . Putting stuff underneath soaks up some bass too


Have you noticed much difference with your games with these boxes in place etc ?
Thanks
 
Davey D said:
This is how i had the pieces cut. You could always make it a little taller depending on how high your machines are set. At the front, my machines typically have around 15mm of thread (including the nut) screwed out from the leg


View attachment 252391


And then a set of 4no. 50mm swivel castors (70mm overall height) like this



View attachment 252392


These are the hinges that i used (3 hinges per box)

www.diy.com

Brass-plated Metal Flush Door hinge N162 (L)50mm (W)50mm, Pack of 2

These brass effect metal cranked flush hinges are suitable for use on small cupboard/louvre doors. Fixings supplied for quick and simple installation.
www.diy.com

And then on the inside corners for strength i used 15mmx15mm strips of pine to help nail & glue it all together

I used a colour stain on the boxes to make them look a bit nicer, and then stick you choice of handle on the front
Click to expand...
What thickness of ply 22mm ?
 
SeikoKid said:
@Davey D

Your boxes are great. I’m looking for plastic container alternatives myself

1 question I have since upgrading the TNA system is that items underneath and also if the game is next to another or on the end with some space can dramatically alters the bass / sound from the cabinet
IE, when the game is on the end with ample space the sound is the best. In between 2 games in have to lower the frequency as it starts to resonate and distorts . Putting stuff underneath soaks up some bass too


Have you noticed much difference with your games with these boxes in place etc ?
Thanks
Click to expand...

To be honest I don't really know. Most of my games have always had one of these boxes under them, so I don't really have a reference of comparison of the games without the box
 
Davey D said:
To be honest I don't really know. Most of my games have always had one of these boxes under them, so I don't really have a reference of comparison of the games without the box
Click to expand...
Oh No worries - i guess i’m at that point with just 1 machine
I was in Costco today and saw these which albeit are plastic they are black, £20, on wheels and at 480mm wide they are not far off those cool wooden boxes in length in but at a fraction of the price
 

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