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JJP GNR Pinball

Do you or @jonathan notice the difference in the JJP flipper strength compared to say a Stern? I struggled to notice the difference on Wonka and GnR over a modern Stern. I find the flippers in POTC a little bit weaker though so maybe some are better than others.

Not really. There's a "different" fee, but it's not necessarily a strength issue.

The slings fee much weaker though. And the feedback on Pinside is that relaxing the capacitors doesn't really affect the slings that much. I assume it's a design choice by JJP
 
Has anyone replaced the io board capacitors on a JJP pin yet? Lots of talk on Pinside about this being a cheap way of making the flippers/slings/magnets more powerful
I've ordered caps + wire etc....
Will give it a go at some stage but got decorating to do for the Mrs so not sure when I will start.
 
I’m obsessed with this game at the mo, even Foo is taking a backseat. it’s like another honeymoon period!
I never used to cash out songs much but I’m chasing No Sympathy, so if I’m down to one ball with loads of song left, I’ll be taking the money and lighting the extra ball.
GnR gives me an adrenaline rush like no other pin.
 
I've ordered caps + wire etc....
Will give it a go at some stage but got decorating to do for the Mrs so not sure when I will start.
Can you let me know what I need to order please, as I would like to also do this. many thanks
 
Not really. There's a "different" fee, but it's not necessarily a strength issue.

The slings fee much weaker though. And the feedback on Pinside is that relaxing the capacitors doesn't really affect the slings that much. I assume it's a design choice by JJP

The sling’s definitely don’t have that uncontrollable bounce that end up down the side lanes like on some sterns..
 
I’m really unsure of the rules on this game if I’m honest. Apart from securing balls in the guitar lock using backhand. Collecting the patches, some I know what they do but have no idea how to group them for a better score and choosing not to select the song for bigger jackpot…
 
Collecting the patches, some I know what they do but have no idea how to group them for a better score and choosing not to select the song for bigger jackpot…

You're better not knowing what they do otherwise you become obsessed with them and it ruins the game. That's how it was for me anyway.
 
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You're better not knowing what they do otherwise you become obsessed with them and it ruins the game. That's how it was for me anyway.
Yeah, you don’t need to know them all. I focus on getting all the Sponsor ones, because all four gets you an extra ball. Before starting an album mode, I‘ll get its patch to make it a bit easier/score more. That sort of thing.
Of course, you should always get the Condom before taking on Rocket Queen…
 
Sure. But what gets you the last 30 and can we change it at home?
Curious to know! Not that any of it would mean much to me.
Pinside suggested there are different resistors but guess those are just to handle the bigger caps.
 
Can you let me know what I need to order please, as I would like to also do this. many thanks
I’m an enthusiastic amateur mate so maybe better following the advice of the Paul and Calimori.

I ordered from Farnels the caps in the attached image - I ordered 4 but you only need 2.
Also got some 18AWG from Amazon as will use for other projects - was cheap as chips at 15 quid.

I’m gonna use hot glue and 25mm PVC tube copex to lift the new capacitors above the surrounding PCB components for clearance, help with any vibrations.
I got these at home already which is why I’m using them + don’t have a 3D printer.
Can get them cheap from Screwfix then cut them to size.

I just need the PCB through hole eyelets for contingency in case I damage the plated conductors removing the old snap In capacitors.
Not sure what size / spec yet for these.
Was reading this:
Cheers


B93FDC25-F0FC-4A3A-9E24-FFCA5A5E455E.jpeg37662D3E-7D02-4928-9D49-34496B3A002F.png1888BBBF-6936-4E12-A240-693B86855069.png
 
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Curious to know! Not that any of it would mean much to me.
Pinside suggested there are different resistors but guess those are just to handle the bigger caps.
I believe from reading ….the additional resistors on the new board are there to accommodate different pins/games which need them hence why loaded. — GnR does not use the additional resistors.
 
Just to advise I should be in a position to be able to carry out this mod in around a week.

Advice on the machine compatability :

The following games can be upgraded:
-Hobbit - 15-4001-01
-Dialed In - 15-004001-03
-Pirates of the Caribbean - 15-004001-01
-Willy Wonka - 15-004001-01
-Guns 'N Roses - 15-004001-01

These games already have the updated design and do not require any modifications.
-Toy Story 4 - 15-004001-07
-The Godfather - 15-004001-08
-Elton John - 15-004001-09


I'll be using either Cornell-Dubilier or Nichicon Capacitors (More than likely Cornell-Dubilier because of availability).
These capacitors, because they are 6800uf instead of 3400uf, are slightly wider, so need to be mounted on a 3d printed base..... see here... (Stolen pics till my 3D printer is up and running later today)...

1708077310784.png
1708077345520.png

1708077295721.png


Feedback from pinside....

FAQ

1) What does the mod do?
This mod doubles the capacitance of the 70 Volt power supply, which provides extra power to drive the high power coils (including the flippers.)
.

2) Does it work ?
Yes. See the above mentioned thread for the experiences people have had with the update.

.

3) Is it hard to perform the mod yourself?
Soldering rework experience is needed, and care must be taken to not damage the through hole plating while removing and installing the Capacitors. If you are not comfortable with this, I highly suggest that you do not try to do the mod yourself.

.

4) Are any other changes that were made on the new board required on the old board?
No additional changes are needed. The new capacitors simply allow more energy to be stored, they do NOT change the voltage level of the supply, so all existing circuitry is unaffected. See 4A for a deeper technical explanation.

.

4A) What changes other than the capacitors, were made on the new IO board
Comparing the schematics of the 70 volt power section of the IO board between Dialed In (which uses the older board), and Godfather (which uses the newer board), there was a change made to the value of the resistors that power the 70 Volt indicator LEDs.

Old Board: R701, R702, R724 - R728 are 6.8K 2Watt resistors
New Board: R701, R702, R724 - R728 are 10K 2Watt resistors

This results in the following current levels for the indicator LEDs
- Old board: indicator LEDs are being driven with ~10 mA of current (70-2 / 6800) (This does NOT change based on the capacitor upgrade since the Voltage remains the same at 70 V)

- New board: indicator LEDs are being driven with ~6.8 mA of current (70-2) / 10000)

Assuming a standard LED like this: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/239/lite-on_lites11002-1-1737435.pdf, both of these current levels are well within the standard operating region of the LED:

Intensity vs Current (resized).pngIntensity vs Current (resized).png

What does this all mean...
- The Indicator LEDs on the new board won't be quite as bright as the older boards.
- The resistors on the new boards will create less heat than the ones on the older boards.
- The capacitor change on the old board does not affect the indicator LEDs in any way.

.

5) What do the Hour and Temperature ratings mean on a capacitor ?
- Both of these values are used to calculate the life span of the capacitor.
- The general rule is that the lifespan of a capacitor doubles from its rated life for every 10° C decrease in operating temperature below the rated temperature.

- As an example, the capacitor used in the FlipMods kit is rated for 3000 Hrs at 85° C
- Playing my Dialed In for an hour straight, the temperature of my capacitors were 36° C ( lets say 40° C for this example)
- Using the capacitor life calculator here: https://eepower.com/tools/electrolytic-capacitor-life-calculator
- that works out to an expected life of 96,975 hours !
- As a worst case scenario, At 50° C (122 F) the life would be 48,487 hrs (2,200 days) of continued use.

capacitor life calculator (resized).pngcapacitor life calculator (resized).png

6) Is the performance of other coils improved with this mod?
This mod supplies more power to all the 70 Volt coils on the game. You can look in the manual to see what coils are driven by 70 Volts. For Dialed In, almost all the coils are driven by the 70 V supply including pop bumpers, magnets, scoop eject, ball launch, etc. I definitely noticed improved responsiveness on these coils. In fact, the only coils not affected on Dialed In are the slingshot coils and the station lock release which are driven off of the 20 Volt supply, which is not enhanced by this mod.
On Guns & Roses, all coils are 70 Volt except for the slingshots.

Review from a Dialled in owner : Def a diff'rence, I'd say a big one.
Flippers stronger, can make a lot more shots. More quick ricochet shots, easier backhanded left ramp from stop or moving, right ramp for sure gets moving in a hurry.
Just all around a better feel.
Jury out on SIM card shot. As I said before I thought it would be worse, and at first I felt no real diff'rence; but I did start draining some at the end and was up to 6x in my 3rd game icon_thinking.gif put a pin in that one and see settings below.
Sneaking past diverted 3 times for SIM was MUCH easier; Like a real live playing machine.

I intend to make two offerings :
Kit only (Install yourself) comprising of Caps with extended leads and 3d printed standoffs
Installed - You ship me your board, I'll install and return.

Will create a new thread and link from here when all ready to go...
 
Just to advise I should be in a position to be able to carry out this mod in around a week.

Advice on the machine compatability :

The following games can be upgraded:
-Hobbit - 15-4001-01
-Dialed In - 15-004001-03
-Pirates of the Caribbean - 15-004001-01
-Willy Wonka - 15-004001-01
-Guns 'N Roses - 15-004001-01


These games already have the updated design and do not require any modifications.
-Toy Story 4 - 15-004001-07
-The Godfather - 15-004001-08
-Elton John - 15-004001-09


I'll be using either Cornell-Dubilier or Nichicon Capacitors (More than likely Cornell-Dubilier because of availability).
These capacitors, because they are 6800uf instead of 3400uf, are slightly wider, so need to be mounted on a 3d printed base..... see here... (Stolen pics till my 3D printer is up and running later today)...

View attachment 244631
View attachment 244632

View attachment 244630


Feedback from pinside....





I intend to make two offerings :
Kit only (Install yourself) comprising of Caps with extended leads and 3d printed standoffs
Installed - You ship me your board, I'll install and return.

Will create a new thread and link from here when all ready to go...
I’m in :) sign me up for the installed option for DI
 
Just to advise I should be in a position to be able to carry out this mod in around a week.

Advice on the machine compatability :

The following games can be upgraded:
-Hobbit - 15-4001-01
-Dialed In - 15-004001-03
-Pirates of the Caribbean - 15-004001-01
-Willy Wonka - 15-004001-01
-Guns 'N Roses - 15-004001-01

These games already have the updated design and do not require any modifications.
-Toy Story 4 - 15-004001-07
-The Godfather - 15-004001-08
-Elton John - 15-004001-09


I'll be using either Cornell-Dubilier or Nichicon Capacitors (More than likely Cornell-Dubilier because of availability).
These capacitors, because they are 6800uf instead of 3400uf, are slightly wider, so need to be mounted on a 3d printed base..... see here... (Stolen pics till my 3D printer is up and running later today)...

View attachment 244631
View attachment 244632

View attachment 244630


Feedback from pinside....





I intend to make two offerings :
Kit only (Install yourself) comprising of Caps with extended leads and 3d printed standoffs
Installed - You ship me your board, I'll install and return.

Will create a new thread and link from here when all ready to go...
I'd be up for a kit for Dialed In Paul, see you at my league meet if not before at the club ( if they're ready by then )
 
This reminds me of when I was a 16yr old kid on work experiance the lad I was working with sent me to the stores with a capacitor thingamybob from a set of points. I took no notice of the way he gingerly handed it too me and as I stood at the stores hatch I looked bown and grabbed it by the single wire while holding the body.
I nearly hit the roof and shat myself as I landed on my **** I looked up to see all the mechanics ****ing themselves laughing while I though i'd almost died!

How times change and I am not so sure this is PC anymore and the usual "long Stand" "left handed screwdriver" or "mesh watering can" are probably far safer bets nowadays.
 
@Paul Dammit, I’m tempted to try this now!
Quite a few owners seemed to have a problem with the thermal switch on the magnet blowing.
I was just wondering if this new/modded board would increase the risk of that happening?
 
@Paul Dammit, I’m tempted to try this now!
Quite a few owners seemed to have a problem with the thermal switch on the magnet blowing.
I was just wondering if this new/modded board would increase the risk of that happening?
Interesting point.
Peeps mentioned coils and magnets feeling stronger after cap upgrade.
Did you ever get a new thermal switch, has it been fine?

Problem with JJP, they are so risk averse and never admit there was a problem in the first place.
When they do fix something, potentially in code would be under the radar.
 
Interesting point.
Peeps mentioned coils and magnets feeling stronger after cap upgrade.
Did you ever get a new thermal switch, has it been fine?

Problem with JJP, they are so risk averse and never admit there was a problem in the first place.
When they do fix something, potentially in code would be under the radar.
Yeah, mine’s still fine.
 
Looks like there is another option. I won't pretend I understand any of it but may be of interest to JJP owners.


I've pasted selected info below, but the whole content is in the above link.

Introducing HerculEASE, the easy to install, no solder, reversible solution to increasing flipper power and consistency in just a few minutes.

Replace 2 fuses with the HerculEASE fuses
Connect two HerculEASE terminals to a screw on the existing IO board
Attach the HerculEASE capacitors to the backbox for stability

No need to remove the large IO board or remove the almost 20 cables.

...Finally, you can go the HerculEASE approach and leave everything in the backbox and don’t touch the 20-some cables. Instead you replace 2 fuses with the HerculEASE fuses, connect two terminals to a screw, and use a zip tie to hold the HerculEASE capacitors in place. This is great for anyone who wants simplicity as well as the ability to easily back out the modification.

I’m currently running HerculEASE in my Guns’N’Roses pin as well as my Dialed In! And the results are amazing.

Initial price will be $80 a kit plus fixed priority mail shipping ($10) in USA. Outside of USA needs more investigation.
 
^^^ very clever
This was gonna be one of my questions, but its answered in the install guide:

Additional Capacitance The HerculEASE kit includes two 3300 uF capacitors. Each is connected to a separate circuit on the IO board. For each circuit, the HerculEASE design places this additional capacitor in parallel with an existing 3300 uF capacitor. When capacitors are placed in parallel, the total capacitance is the sum, resulting in 6600 uF capacitance.

I've asked the Q to the mod creator:

The solder option gives 6800uf 100v
I wonder how this compares to the 6600uf total capacitance in terms of flipper feel.
Is it likely negligible?
 
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