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Elektra - advice needed please

OK, I've spent the afternoon downstairs with the Elektra. I went intending to follow Andy @pinballmania 's steps initially BUT...the darn thing worked perfectly. I turned it on, 7 flashes (1 pause 6) went in to attract then fired up OK for a game. I spent an hour playing the machine including some physical nudging to see if I could shake something loose...no problems. Left it to sit in attract mode while a played another machine...no problem. Turned it off and on a few times, came to life perfectly (with 7 flashes) every time. What now? I assume it isn't worth re-checking voltages at the moment...should I just wait until it crashes again and then test voltages to see what has gone out?
@Andrew65 and @Moonraker both mentioned failed caps. How would I test for this and which ones should I be looking at?
As always I'm very grateful for everyone's advice.
John

Will depend on what the flashes stop at to which board to start looking at. Often poor cap can lead to wrong voltages or inconsistent voltages causing the MPU not to fire up. I would suggest to leave it in attract mode for an extended period (a few hours) and see what happens. If okay give it a good bash for a ehile and see what happens.

Sounds like a faulty connection or faulty cap. Connections are the first to try and fix. Pain in the rear though

Andrew
 
With the capacitors, the ones that look like tin cans are prone to leaking over time.

I would just change them if they might be your problem. Multimeters do have capacitor testing functions, but i have no idea how accurate these are or whether you need to remove the caps to test them
 
With the capacitors, the ones that look like tin cans are prone to leaking over time.

I would just change them if they might be your problem. Multimeters do have capacitor testing functions, but i have no idea how accurate these are or whether you need to remove the caps to test them

Normally u need to remove the caps plus if it is heat related and intermittent u probably test the cap and it is OK. Best replacing them. Agree the tin can ones are most prone but all types can go and we must remember that the machine is 36/37 years old so the odd failure may occur :(

If we know what flash it stops on then maybe we can track down where it is failing for a starting point.
 
I still think it is a bad wire connection
When the game is left on there is a lot of heat generated in the back box ,lamps and display's this will make he wires a little subtle hence movement !
 
OK, Thank you all again for your patience and advice. I've had lots of good advice but I'm trying to follow one idea at a time, starting with the least intrusive (and least complicated). So today I did as @Andrew65 suggested and left it in attract mode for a few hours. When I came back to it was still alive and in attract but as soon as I coined up a game it went dead as previously. So...do I take this as further evidence for the 'failed caps' line of thinking? If so I'm going to need to send the boards off to be worked on as I wouldn't trust myself to take a soldering iron to the boards. Andy @pinballmania ?
 
By starting a game you are putting greater strain on lots of components versus the attract mode, solenoids will fire, the flipper relay will energise, drop targets will reset

It could be a myriad of things unfortunately, but caps or bad connectors still looking likely causes
 
When it fails switch off and on again. Does it reboot ok, if not how many flashes.
 
When it fails switch off and on again. Does it reboot ok, if not how many flashes.
OK just had a session to check this out Andy @pinballmania . Initially it fired up fine, played for a few minutes then shut down but immediately rebooted itself with 1+6 flashes and a successful re-set. After about 8 cycles like this it didn't re-boot itself instantly and when I turned it on and off I got a variety of results. For the next two cycles it gave 1, pause, 2 flashes then just flickering where the third flash should be and it failed to boot up. Then three successful reboots with 1+6 flashes. Then in to a new level of failure as when I turned it off and on it just gave a series of flickers as if attempting to flash but not quite managing it. At the same time the speaker made a loud buzzing noise. (I also made a loud buzzing noise but I realise that may not be diagnostically helpful.)
 
Just to update all of you who offered very helpful advice. A service visit from Andy examined the MPU and power boards and despite new capacitor and examination of connections, did not solve the intermittent shutdown problem. We decided that a new Altek MPU was the most cost efficient solution and Andy had one on board to fit. Since when the machine has played perfectly. In addition to working without interruptions it has solved the intermittent voice problem it had as well. So now the machine says all the right things at the right time. I'm greatly enjoying the machine now I don't have the constant stress of 'will it stop any minute?' Thanks again to all.
 
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