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No Longer Available Compact Pinball Clock -last few FULLY BUILT - REDUCED

Got up this morning to a completed print of a prototype wall fixing bracket. Not sure what I think about this wall bracket, needs a tweek as channels that "fit" the rear pcb need to be a fraction wider.

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Please excuse the PVC tape on screens, double sided due via Amazon today.
 
I might be the first to have broken theirs.
View attachment 197754

It was working before I fixed the screens.
I am working through the last things I did but card is fine. IC is fine. Power is fine.
take sd card out and clean contacts. when reinserting push the top slightly towards the rear of the clock so that the bottom of the sd card where the contacts are located pushes firmly against the contacts in the card receptacle.

If problem persists. we can try a new sd card. i’ve got spare.
 
OK, sharing my experience.
SD card trick didn't work. I took the decision to unsolder and remove the SD card reader to check nothing had flowed behind and shorted it. Seemed OK, soldered it back on, and then it worked.
I have also formatted another 64GB SD card to Fat 32, original is FAT 16, this also worked.

Now to see if I can fix that second from the left screen.
IMG_1785.jpg


I have reseated the cable, next option would be to swap over a screen and test it with another. Anything else whilst trying before I unstick them?
 
OK, sharing my experience.
SD card trick didn't work. I took the decision to unsolder and remove the SD card reader to check nothing had flowed behind and shorted it. Seemed OK, soldered it back on, and then it worked.
I have also formatted another 64GB SD card to Fat 32, original is FAT 16, this also worked.

Now to see if I can fix that second from the left screen.
View attachment 197811

I have reseated the cable, next option would be to swap over a screen and test it with another. Anything else whilst trying before I unstick them?
just check there is no scraps of solder shorting two of the small pins on the header socket. they’re very close together!

if that’s ok then let me send you a new screen.
 
I’ll send you a new one.
Are you able to tell me which pins are screen two and then I can deep dive?
Looking from the front, the 2nd screen from the left is connected to connector labelled FPC6
Each FPC connector has 8 pins, 7 of them are in common across all 7 displays, the 8th is the "chip select" line which is separate to each of the 7 displays.

The header pins underneath (top and bottom of each pair are connected to each other), from the left are:
1 - NC
2 - NC
3 - left screen chip select
4 - 2nd left screen cs (the problem one)
5 - 3rd left screen cs
6 = 4th
7 = 5th
8 = 6th
9 = 7th
10-16 then are the 7 connections in common to all 7 screens. being 3.3v, CLOCK, MOSI, DC/RS, RESET, GND, Back light power.

So only possibility the 2nd screen cs is shorted to one next to it and so is getting incorrect data, more likely the screen is faulty.

I'll post a spare screen today anyway.
 
hmmm my clock has just lost 30 mins - now showing wring time - I didnt touch it - honest.

M
Are you connected to wifi? if so it should be getting accurate internet time every minute?

If not connected to wifi then the real time clock inside is pretty accurate, but they are dependent somewhat on ambient temperature, so can go a bit out. i’ve used them in dozens of click projects i’ve built, but never seen a 30 min drift, it’s usually a few minutes over a few weeks.
 
seemed like a 30 min jump - good point @Ashbo - I think I'll try for 1976.

Not on WIFI as it didn't like my dodgy WIFI - I will try again with the connection. Does the wifi name - first command before password - need to match the router name?
 
seemed like a 30 min jump - good point @Ashbo - I think I'll try for 1976.

Not on WIFI as it didn't like my dodgy WIFI - I will try again with the connection. Does the wifi name - first command before password - need to match the router name?
wifi name is your SSID so i guess that’s same as your router name?
 
Ok, connected to wifi and time has now reverted to correct time - it didn't like my wifi extender - but then neither do I !
 
Are you connected to wifi? if so it should be getting accurate internet time every minute?

If not connected to wifi then the real time clock inside is pretty accurate, but they are dependent somewhat on ambient temperature, so can go a bit out. i’ve used them in dozens of click projects i’ve built, but never seen a 30 min drift, it’s usually a few minutes over a few weeks.
Out of interest, what's a 'click project'?
 
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