In Progress Bram Stokers Dracula -BSD Restoration

[Ant-H]

Before I crack on with the Playfield swap the last job to finish on the cabinet was to restore the lamp board.

First thing to do was to completely strip it down and get the wiring harness in the sonic cleaner as it was filthy.

The board itself was then sanded both sides, masked up ready for paintings

I used some matt white to paint the front and once dry, I like to seal the bare mdf on the rear of the panel as it stops any future dirt build up.


Whilst everything was drying, all the plastics and lamp connectors were cleaned in the ultra sonic do remove all the dirt before being dyed. I find that if they aren’t really clean before hand, the dye doesn’t take to the plastic very well.

Once everything was dry it was just a case then of putting it back to together.
I also had all cabinet metal work powder coated in a gloss black including the back box parts.




With the back box attached to the cabinet, I moved onto all the boards. Myself and @Happypin installed new bridge rectifiers to the power driver board and also recapped it. I also re-flowed all the connectors on each board.
The last job I still need to do is install some nvram to the mpu.

Final job was to add new fuse and FBI decals and install the sub and transformer.

 

[Tilt_Birmingham]

Said it before and will say it again... You do some if not the best retro on the forum!

This is looking beautiful

 

[Ant-H]

Said it before and will say it again... You do some if not the best retro on the forum!

This is looking beautiful

Thanks mate.

It’s been a cool side project. Been working on it in between a few FTs. Struggling for space at the moment

 

[Ant-H]

Now that the cabinet is done, I moved onto the playfield swap.
First thing to do was to strip it all down, so that I could see what I’m dealing with.




I like to get all the posts into the tumbler as soon as possible, that way they will be ready for when I need them. I always like to use fresh media and generally leave them in there for a good 4-5 days.

With the mech assemblies now in the bench, I could take a good look at each component while I disassemble them to see if anything needs replacing.

Luckily there was only a pop bumper bracket that needed to be replaced. Looks like it had broken in the past and someone welded it back together.
Before I send any metal work out for either plating or powder coating, I like to clean everything in the ultra sonic cleaner for 20 minutes, that way I know for sure that all the grease and dirt will definitely be removed and you get and better finish.

 

[newdos]

Is all that steel getting powder coated Ant ? Can I ask where do you send it ?

Cheers

Kev

 

[Ant-H]

Is all that steel getting powder coated Ant ? Can I ask where do you send it ?

Cheers

Kev

Yes, all the mechs etc will be powder coated. I take it to Aurora Powder Coaters in Aldershot.

I’m practically there weekly and the quality of there work is top notch.
They've recently done the armour on my Alien LV using some Prismatic Illusion Royal.

Powder coating specialists | Aurora Powder Coating

EPC, PPC and shot blasting. More than 25 years’ experience. Free quotes available. Ask the powder coating specialists at Aurora Powder Coating in Aldershot.

www.aurorapowdercoating.co.uk

 

[Ant-H]

The playfield for this restore is a Mirco and looks really nice. However the owner has opted for a PF protector, plus I’m planning on doing a few things that should help prevent any potential issues to the clear coat.

The underside of Mirco Playfields never seem to be sealed and I find the bare wood can be easily marked/stained, so I always like seal it with a satin clear coat.

Once dry the new T-nuts are fitted next.

After that, the pop bumper nails followed by the bodies.
I wanted to use black pop bumper bodies but couldn’t find any available so I ended up painting my own.

Once the bodies are screwed down, the legs of the lamp sockets are stapled in place.

I’d usually now install the side rails for the playfield to help avoid warping but these are at the powder coaters.
So I moved onto cleaning all the PF lamp boards as they were filthy.


After 2 x 20 minute cycles in the sonic cleaner they come out like new. Once dry I’ll re-flow all the solder before fitting them onto the new playfield.



Wiring harnesses were next. It always surprises me how much grime comes off these.
I hang them up to dry outside then move them onto my radiators which really ****es the wife off

Lamp boards didn’t take long to dry so I could re-install them along with the magnet plastics.

One thing that does need sorting out if installing a Mirco BSD playfield is the double opto bracket that goes on the right side (when looking at it on a rotisserie)

This is how it is on the original PF

This is how the Mirco PF comes


Obviously it’s machined out for 2 single brackets in error as a wide bracket need to go in that position.

So I had to carefully cut the piece out with a sharpe chisel in order to fit the bracket.


The opto board will be replaced with a more reliable one from Homepin.

 

[newdos]

Yes, all the mechs etc will be powder coated. I take it to Aurora Powder Coaters in Aldershot.

I’m practically there weekly and the quality of there work is top notch.
They've recently done the armour on my Alien LV using some Prismatic Illusion Royal.

Powder coating specialists | Aurora Powder Coating

EPC, PPC and shot blasting. More than 25 years’ experience. Free quotes available. Ask the powder coating specialists at Aurora Powder Coating in Aldershot.

www.aurorapowdercoating.co.uk

Wow !! that looks really smart Ant!!

 

[Ant-H]

I’ve been slowly chipping away on the BSD in between other projects.
I picked up the rest of the metal work from the powder coaters so I can crack on with rebuilding all the mechs.

But before doing that I tested all the coils to see if they were good and then gave them a bath in the ultra sonic to remove the 30 years of dirt and grime.

Whilst they’re drying, I made a start on the top side of the PF.
Being a Mirco PF, you have to be careful when installing parts to avoid chipping, especially around holes which I think is due to his manufacturing process.

I find the majority of post holes are always to small for the posts and need drilling out, which is where chipping can happen.

If using regular drill bits, it can catch the clear and chip it. So I basically grind the clear and hole out.


I then use another tool to make the top of the hole wide enough so that the threads are not in contact with the clear coat.



The final stage is to seal the edges of the hole with some watered down super glue. This locks down the edges of the clear coat.

Once I’d done this to all the holes I could test fit the post.



At this stage I have not tightened down the star posts as there’s one final process to do to avoid the classic pooling underneath them.

 

[Ant-H]

From the Mirco playfields Ive installed and reading some of the feedback about GNR in regards to pooling under star posts I wanted to avoid that issue happening on this install.

So I thought I do a little experiment and see what would happen is I installed a star post. I choose an area that isn’t seen, which was one of the PF hanger holes located under the apron.
When fitting it, I didn’t clamp it down hard, I literally just gave it a pinch, then left it for just over a week.

After removing it, this is what I was left with

Obviously I didn’t want that to happen all over the PF itself. One option was to use regular washers, but again I still think it would happen.
So in the end I used small stainless steel washers that has neoprene rubber on the bottom.


These fit perfectly under the star posts

When you first install them they look really high but once you tightened them up, the neoprene compresses and flattens right down so that is the only thing in contact with the playfield. It is also completely hidden by the star post

Another little job I did was swap out the old flakey opto board for a new one. Hopefully this will save me some trouble later down the line.

I also made a start rebuilding the mechs. Got the pop bumpers and trough kicker done first but will crack on with the rest next.

 

[harig]

Was wondering about that info: 'watered down super glue' .. what does it mean?-I read somewhere to use water thin super glue but it is really possible to thinnen standard viscosity super glue down to make it to flow like water? If so, what thinner do you use?

 

[Ant-H]

Was wondering about that info: 'watered down super glue' .. what does it mean?-I read somewhere to use water thin super glue but it is really possible to thinnen standard viscosity super glue down to make it to flow like water? If so, what thinner do you use?

Yes you basically just add a small amount of water to some super glue. No need to add thinners. You just add small amounts until the glue flows a lot easier.

When it comes to using it, I’d recommend using a needle or a small pipette as you don’t want to glue dripping on the clear coat.

 

[Ant-H]

I’ve been working on a few other projects most of last week but the mechs on BSD are all rebuilt and fitted onto the new playfield.

Before rebuilding them, I colour coded all the connectors as well as the plastic parts on the sling shot arms. I also polished the heads on all the screws/fixings.
All switches/optos were replaced as were any springs and sleeves , so they should be good for quite a while


The last one I rebuilt was the motor mech. I ended up dismantling the housing to re-grease the gears but I forgot to take some photos of the process . I then gave it a good polish and it was filthy and really tarnished.

Next job is to work on the wiring harness starting with the switch harness first.

 

[Ant-H]

Got a bit more work done on the BSD restore.

All the harnesses have been cleaned in the ultra sonic and are now fully dry. First Job whilst on the bench is to replace all the switches and optos.

After a while of replacing switch and lamp sockets it can become a little soul destroying . So I thought I’d tackle the PF back board.

First job was to completely strip it and sand it down followed by some filler work.

It was then primed and painted ready for a new decal.

The new decal that I installed was really good quality and covered the entire backboard.

Once stuck down, I trimmed off the excess and could fit all the other parts before re-installing it back onto the playfield. Compared to how it was, I was pleased with the end result

I’m going to continue with the 3 Fish Tale restores, but next for the BSD will be to finish all the harnesses.

 

[Ant-H]

Jumped back onto the BSD last week and actually got quite a bit done.

Unfortunately for this game, you can’t get replacement ramps, but luckily the ones in this BSD are pretty good with no cracks etc. Just really dirty.
I started out with a small one first to see how they would look and after a good clean and flame polish, I’m pretty please with the results.
Before

After

The underside is basically 90% complete. All the switches/optos have been changed along with all the lamp holders.
All 3 harnesses have now been reinstalled and I’m just in the process of tidying them up.

I’ve also made a start on the plastics and wire forms. The next stage is to install the playfield protector, the pop up ramp and Coffin mod.

 

[Jay Walker]

The picture showing the outhole/ramp area reminds me that B/S Dracula is one of only a few 'Williams' games with more than three storage ramp/'trough' switches, along with F-14 and Twilight Zone. And only the former of those two actually circulates 4 balls normally - the others use the 4th switch as a signal to re-load a remote location (the Mist feature and Gum Ball).

 

[Ant-H]

Had a little break from the 3 Fish Tales restores so thought I’d do a bit more on the BSD.

But before I fitted anymore parts to the topside, I installed the playfield protector, which I’ll leave with the top protective film on until the end.

Next to go on was the pop up ramp. The plastic ramp itself had seen better days and though I could have probably cleaned this one up and give it a flame polish, it was easier to ask Col to make a new one.

All the little brackets along with the ramp flap needed to be riveted back on.

Then I could install it back on the playfield and connect it up to the mech.

Next job on the list was to finally install one of @RudeDogg1 amazing Coffin mods. IMO this is a must mod for a BSD unless of course you prefer Ron looking back at you

Before it could go on though, I wanted the original base of the mech to blend in more with the overall look of the game so it was primed and painted in a gloss black.

New lamp sockets were also installed onto the metal base of the coffin.
Finally I fitted some purple pop bumper caps and then the coffin mod could go on

 

[Ant-H]

I’ve done a bit more progress on the BSD in between other projects.

Myself and the owner of the game have been patiently waiting for new plastic ramps to be re-made.
We were initially told they would be ready in 6 months, but that was 2 years ago now, so we made the decision to re-use the originals and then swap them out if and when the new sets are made.

IMO the originals on the game were in pretty good condition compared to others I have seen. They were mainly really dirty and the decals were pealing up.

So the first job was to strip the ramps down and send out any metal parts to be powder coated. I also removed the decals which was a real pain in the **** as they left loads of glue residue which then had to be removed……..slowly .
I then gave them a good clean and polish.



Luckily, the decals are still available for the ramps and seemed to be good quality.

Like with most decals, I like to use the wet method as it helps remove any air bubbles a lot easier and in this case, as some of the decals were curved, it also makes it easier to re-position them if needed.


Lining each of the stickers up on the main ramp was quite tricky but I was pleased with how they come out in the end.