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In Progress Bram Stokers Dracula -BSD Restoration

Ant-H

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Joined
Oct 17, 2020
Messages
1,469
Location
South London
Ive had this Pin in my possession for over a year now waiting to be restored.

The owner is in no rush for it so I’ve been working on the game, on and off over the past few months, as a little side project whilst working on other restorations.

It came to me as a bit of an unfinished project pin and was partly dis-assembled both on the playfield and back-box. The plan when finished is to hopefully have a nice super minted BSD 😀.

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Me three! This will be a peach when done! Looking forward to watching the progress. I know first hand how good Ant's work is.
 
First job was to strip the cabinet down so that I could see what needed to be done
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The cabinet had been painted and re-decalled in the past but I was asked to remove it all so that I could fix anything that I felt needed doing and start again.
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Luckily for me the decals pulled straight off without the need of my heat gun and scraper 😀
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Next I wanted to go over the entire cabinet and back box and remove any old fixes/filler.
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Once this was done I gave everything a sand with 120 grit so that I had a good base to start fixing all damage.
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My first machine was a Dracula, great game,, looking forward to seeing this all done. Well done so far.
 
I had an idea to install some flush mounted under cabinet lighting on my TAF, but it was to late to start cutting up the cabinet at that stage so I thought I’d do it on the next project.

The plan is install regular led strip lighting but instead of sticking it to the bottom of the cabinet I want it to be flush with the base, so the first job was to router out 2 channels for the lighting strip to fit into.

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Next I needed to square off the ends so the lighting bars would fit.
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Once this was done the light bars fitted nice and snug but with another room for paint build up etc.
The wires will go straight into the cabinet and out of sight.
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Whilst I had the router out, I sunk the playfield mounting bolts into the cabinet. I like to glue these in place with some epoxy to help stop them moving.
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Ideally if doing this, I wouldn’t recommend regular filler to cover the bolt heads as it’s too brittle imo and can crack. If that happens your see the cracks under the decals once applied.
So to avoid this, I use fibre glass filler as it’s incredibly hard.
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I use this same method to fill deep holes like these old security bar holes by the coin door.
Again to avoid cracking, I plug the hole first by gluing a wooden dowel in, making sure it’s not flush.
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Once that’s dry, I use the fibre glass over the top followed by a skim coat of regular filler.
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I like how Ant carries forward his ideas that he does on one pin and makes it better on his next. Great idea about the routed channels for the lights.
 
looking forward to following this one @Ant-H you do some of the best work on the forum now :)
Thanks mate. I’ve been working on this BSD on and off between other jobs.

Ive actually got a couple of FT’s in the workshop for full on restored as well so I’ll might start another build log on them as well.
 
I like how Ant carries forward his ideas that he does on one pin and makes it better on his next. Great idea about the routed channels for the lights.
That’s because I always seem to think of a idea half way through a restoration, when it’s to late to try out so I have to wait until the next project 😂
 
Not sure if you are doing full powder coating Ant? But I just thought i'd share this video I just saw with a full blood red powder coat. Looks very nice

 
Not sure if you are doing full powder coating Ant? But I just thought i'd share this video I just saw with a full blood red powder coat. Looks very nice

Thanks mate. Yes I’ve seen that video. I enjoy watching his restores.

For me, I’m not a fan of that shade of red on a BSD as imo it classes with the bright red of the Dracula logo on the decals.

But I’ve also seen a few where the powder coating matched that red on the decals and I wasn’t keen either as it was too bright for a gothic style game.
 
Thanks mate. Yes I’ve seen that video. I enjoy watching his restores.

For me, I’m not a fan of that shade of red on a BSD as imo it classes with the bright red of the Dracula logo on the decals.

But I’ve also seen a few where the powder coating matched that red on the decals and I wasn’t keen either as it was too bright for a gothic style game.
I agree the mismatch of reds isn't the best and I'm also with you on the brightness of the red in the decals being too bright.

So what colour are you thinking? or is it just staying original? Either way i'm sure it will look stunning when you're done Ant 👍
 
I agree the mismatch of reds isn't the best and I'm also with you on the brightness of the red in the decals being too bright.

So what colour are you thinking? or is it just staying original? Either way i'm sure it will look stunning when you're done Ant 👍
I’m probably going to stick to the gothic theme so might go for black 🤔
 
I got the cabinet and back box fully prepped and ready for primer.
All the seems on the back box have been filled and blended in so there will be no joins when painted.
All corners were also rebuilt and are now nice and straight.
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I usually start with 120, followed by 240, 400 and lastly 600 grit. I do this to the entire cabinet, both inside and out. The reason I like to do that is I feel you get a much better finish once the paint has been applied, especially on the interior of the cabinet.
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Because the underside of the cabinet has already been painted, ill paint it again, so I could use some filler to fix any damage, which I wouldn’t usually do if it was to be left as bare wood.
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The first stage primer I like to use is a grey filler primer. Everything gets 2 coats of this. Before I do this though, I wiped everything down with a tac cloth followed by some panel prep to remove any grease that can react with the paint.
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Imo this is an important stage, as when you fill a cabinet and rub your hand over it, it might feel silky smooth. However your finger tips will not pick up minor imperfection but when the decals are applied, they definitely will and by then it’s too late.
I learnt this the hard way when I restored an arcade cab a few years ago 😭

This primer fills any tiny holes in the wood but more importantly highlights any areas that need more attention, especially those areas that have had a lot of work done to them, like the corners.
Once these are rectified, I spray only these areas again with some beige high build primer (rattle can) which gives you a final visual confirmation that these areas are now spot on.
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For the transformer, I used a wire wheel in a drill to remove all the rust, then this gets a coat of primer as well.
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F*#k me you are next level for detail, absolutely amazing!
Is it the same approach when decorating the house? 😂
 
After I went over the cabinet/back box and filled any areas that I wasn’t happy with, I rubbed everything down with 600 grit sand paper so it was ready for paint.

I use thinned down black in a spray gun as I find the application and finish is a lot nicer. Plus I find it’s cheaper that buying loads of rattle cans.
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Before I lay down the first coat, I use compressed air to blow out any hidden dust, followed by a good hoover. It all then gets wiped down with a tack cloth and finally panel wipe. That ensures the finish is as good as I can get it without being in a professional spray booth.

For me, this is important especially for the back of the back box and cabinet as any marks or dust will be visible.
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That ensures the finish is as good as I can get it without being in a professional spray booth.

Hey Ant, where do you do the painting.. do you have a tent/tarp setup or is this just done outside? Looking fantastic as usual :thumbs:
 
Nice and smooth. what air compressor gear are you using? I’m thinking of swapping away from cans, and have no experience of painting systems, so any advice gratefully received.
 
After I went over the cabinet/back box and filled any areas that I wasn’t happy with, I rubbed everything down with 600 grit sand paper so it was ready for paint.

I use thinned down black in a spray gun as I find the application and finish is a lot nicer. Plus I find it’s cheaper that buying loads of rattle cans.
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Before I lay down the first coat, I use compressed air to blow out any hidden dust, followed by a good hoover. It all then gets wiped down with a tack cloth and finally panel wipe. That ensures the finish is as good as I can get it without being in a professional spray booth.

For me, this is important especially for the back of the back box and cabinet as any marks or dust will be visible.
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You can’t knock that … it’s as smooth as a babies bum that ! Great work as always
 
Hey Ant, where do you do the painting.. do you have a tent/tarp setup or is this just done outside? Looking fantastic as usual :thumbs:
Thanks mate. No I don’t have a tent, it’s all done outside, which is a pain in the **** due to the weather and in the summer months when it’s good, you then have to deal with bugs landing on the paint as it’s drying.

If I had a bigger workshop, I’d definitely want a separate spray booth inside.
 
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Nice and smooth. what air compressor gear are you using? I’m thinking of swapping away from cans, and have no experience of painting systems, so any advice gratefully received.
I’ve got a SGS 100 litre direct drive air compressor. You can use smaller ones for spraying, they will just go off more.

You want to look at CFM on compressors. My one is 14.6cfm which if I remember correctly it good for spraying as well as other air tools which I also use.

In regards to spray guns, you can spend hundreds on them but I like to use Sealy gravity spray guns which are readily available on Amazon and are pretty cheap.

I use one with a 1.3mm nozzle for top coats and one with a 1.8mm nozzle when doing the priming. I also prefer to add air regulators to each gun as well as you get a lot better control or the airflow, but you don’t have to use them.

You can also add a filter to the air line to help remove moisture from the air that builds up in the compressor, but again you don’t have to.
 
I’ve got a SGS 100 litre direct drive air compressor. You can use smaller ones for spraying, they will just go off more.

You want to look at CFM on compressors. My one is 14.6cfm which if I remember correctly it good for spraying as well as other air tools which I also use.

In regards to spray guns, you can spend hundreds on them but I like to use Sealy gravity spray guns which are readily available on Amazon and are pretty cheap.

I use one with a 1.3mm nozzle for top coats and one with a 1.8mm nozzle when doing the priming. I also prefer to add air regulators to each gun as well as you get a lot better control or the airflow, but you don’t have to use them.

You can also add a filter to the air line to help remove moisture from the air that builds up in the compressor, but again you don’t have to.
Hi Ant, thank for this - I found the SGS 100 whilst googling the other day - their website seemed to have some good advice too, so nice to know that's what you are using.
 
Hi Ant, thank for this - I found the SGS 100 whilst googling the other day - their website seemed to have some good advice too, so nice to know that's what you are using.
No problem. I’m happy with it. It’s pretty good value and I’ve had no issues with it at all.
 
Next job to tackle was installing the decals. These came from Mr Pinball in Australia and I found them really nice to apply and were good quality.

First thing was to wet sand all areas where the decals will be applied with some 1200 grit sandpaper, to knock of any dust particles and to get a smooth finish.
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Next I lined up the decals and used a wet method to apply them, after I give everything a final wipe down with a tack cloth followed by panel wipe.
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For me, I generally like to leave the decals to settle for a day or 2 before moving onto the screen printing, which is a job I don’t particularly like doing 😂
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Depending on the temperature, I find the ink usually is fully drys after a couple of days. I can then install new Earth braiding to both the back box and cabinet.
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Next thing to do is to restore the lamp board for the back box and to start on the playfield 👍
 
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