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For Sale 100 piece fuse kit, 20 values in plastic case

I need a few hundred of these, however getting them at a decent price is the issue - availability of Slow Blow is also a challenge.

My recommendation is if you need fuses then grab one of these from Alan and save yourself the pain!!! :D
 
AlanJ said:
Molex have about 30,000 different parts! I’m gonna need a bigger box!
Click to expand...
Yes I’m sure you’re right, no worries
How about a Williams era? Selection of the ones commonly used? Or commonly replaced?
Possibly something similar to this?
IMG_7402.jpeg
 
Please be REALLY careful if replacing molex's. They are second in the list of the easiest ways to strip througholes in a board IMO (The first being changing/removing the snap-on caps on the driver boards etc).
In most cases they will be fine (if you let the heat do the work, and make sure that all of the soldier is gone) or have a decent desoldering gun that can fully clean the hole all the way through.

I have two double sided boxes full of different Molex connectors for pinball boards!

Easiest way to do the larger KK series PCB connectors is to use the 24way ones and chop them down to size. If careful you can also do that with the "plug" side as well. Smaller ones you have to use the proper sizes tho, because of the backing "block" being all in one rather than individual pin :)
 
Paul said:
Please be REALLY careful if replacing molex's. They are second in the list of the easiest ways to strip througholes in a board IMO (The first being changing/removing the snap-on caps on the driver boards etc).
In most cases they will be fine (if you let the heat do the work, and make sure that all of the soldier is gone) or have a decent desoldering gun that can fully clean the hole all the way through.

I have two double sided boxes full of different Molex connectors for pinball boards!

Easiest way to do the larger KK series PCB connectors is to use the 24way ones and chop them down to size. If careful you can also do that with the "plug" side as well. Smaller ones you have to use the proper sizes tho, because of the backing "block" being all in one rather than individual pin :)
Click to expand...
What desoldering gun do you use / recommend? I did have a cheapy but kept losing suction and annoying me so treated myself to one of these! https://hakko.co.uk/product/fr-301-portable-desoldering-gun/
 
AlanJ said:
I use this , much cheaper than a hakko, but works good.
Click to expand...
I have similar(It's quite old now - about 8 or 9 years) however it's bigger brother...

1719759211802.png

ZD-985

Still available for around £130.
The only issues i have found with it is that the solder cools as soon as it is sucked up, and tends to start to solidify in the tube on occasion when going back into the collection chamber, so it does get clogged occasionally.
Ive just read that as long as you do some pro-active cleaning then you can usually avoid this issue, however i just like to pick it up and go!

Had i had a choice again, i would probably pick something slightly different. I'm not a fan of the all-handheld ones (like the Hakko FR301) as they are heavier and if doing a reasonable bit of desoldering then you'll get wrist ache! Plus i cant justify £400 for the amount of desoldering i do. If it was £150 then maybe!
(Ironically the 100/110v ones are MUCH cheaper... talk about rinsing the market!)

but it works well :)
 
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