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The Buy in Bulk Thread - eBay/AliExpress/Etc

Arv

Registered
10 Years
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
3,575
Post your recent finds for various bulk buy pinball parts here, i'll start with these:

Microswitch Long Lever AC 250V 10A Limit Switch Cherry DB2 SPDT Roller Lever Micro Switch

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free...y-DB2-SPDT-Roller-Lever-Micro/2044371507.html

DB2 (black) switches are not much use for pinball games. The spring strength is too high. Please see my previous for sale post here for more info:

http://www.pinballinfo.com/communit...-limited-time-prices-stock.30524/#post-137381

I source electronic items for pinball from quality suppliers to find the best prices i can and have listed many other bulk parts in the for sale section over the last 4-6 months. Many group members have taken advantage of my finds
 

Again, slotted optos for pinball require very specific timings and current sink abilities. Not all slotted optos will work, as WMS's design was on the edge of compatibility with them. See my listing here for ones tested in my own games and sourced from high quality suppliers

http://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/source-of-replacement-slotted-wpc-optos.32425/
 
Yeah all these parts have been working fine for me too.
 
Yeah, pick you chip from the list. Load binary rom. Flash.
 
I'd like to find a source for IR leds & recievers for optos.
might give these a bash.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pairs-F...420248?hash=item5d5ffdb218:g:DZ8AAOSw5VFWIFGE
Will report in 5 weeks :rofl:

Edit I think the pinball ones are 5mm

Pinball IR LED's are massively overdriven to the point of it being no suprise that they fail.

If you wanted to investigate using modern equivalents I would suggest looking at also changing the current limiting resistors to limit to under 20ma as Chinese LED's last 5 minutes when being overdriven. I imagine modern ones driven at 10ma probably peform better than old ones being overdriven anyway
 
I picked up a cheap erprom programmer from ebay. Link later when not on my phone. The big issue was the power draw from the USB port. I found adding an extra usb lead on the 5v and adding a 2amp 5v phone charger made it much more reliable. Useful if you get write errors.
 
Also, For imperial nylocs etc, model fixings were excellent and dirt cheap. (70p for 10 ish) they do a2 stainless for the same price. Cheap postage and in the UK.
 
For the programmer, i con't find it on ebay any more. Perhaps i had an old model? Either way if you have a write error on the pinball eeproms it is worth adding the extra 5v current to the line (either by soldering an extra USB lead to the board as i did, or perhaps a Y connector. I vaguely remember something about the 27 series eeproms needing to be written to at 12v and the cheap programmers needing a bit more oomph than the standard 5v 500ma that a USB from a PC provides),
 
For the programmer, i con't find it on ebay any more. Perhaps i had an old model? Either way if you have a write error on the pinball eeproms it is worth adding the extra 5v current to the line (either by soldering an extra USB lead to the board as i did, or perhaps a Y connector. I vaguely remember something about the 27 series eeproms needing to be written to at 12v and the cheap programmers needing a bit more oomph than the standard 5v 500ma that a USB from a PC provides),
That Willem Programmer that I have can be powered by a 12v supply (that is what I do). I very, very rarely get write errors.
It's a good programmer but an absolute swine to set up for different chips.
 
That EPROM programmer looks half decent.
I take it, it would burn the same ROMs used in arcade PCBs?

I'm also looking for some 2764 eproms, but aliexpress doesn't seem to have them :(
 
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