Sys11 metal lift trim - hmmmm

[strobey]

Just removed tape and de-gunked a sys11 translite and now the metal lift trim is really loose.

Is there a plastic insert which should go inside the channel?

I understand the use of tape as a quick fix. Seems to be used on everything this era, but as a bodge and I don't like it.

Would rather shim it properly or tighten the channel (seems like a terrible design).

What was factory?

 

[PinIB]

My Whirlwind has an equally bad plastic trim. I assumed that plastic was factory but I'm no expert. It would be good to know.

 

[strobey]

I thought the metal was a prototype thing at first but most sys11s seem to have it. Checked my Taxi and it's the same, just never noticed it before.

The move to plastic for 90s+ WPC was actually much better as you get a tighter fit without scratching the translite. But it's def more prone to breaking.

If the trim is cracked in any way all of that tightness disappears.

But on this metal one, it's so loose without any tape I can't beleive there wasn't something in there from factory...

 

[PinIB]

I’m dipping in and out of a restoration on mine. I’m eventually heading towards a CPR backglass and chrome lifter.

The current plastic is cracked and loose with the same tape bodge.

 

[strobey]

So the profile doesn't seem unreasonable but you could definitely expect some wear from where it gouges the back of the translite.



I wondered if perhaps my glass isn't thick enough but the top and side trims (these are plastic) fit perfectly and are snug like a WPC.

The lift piece is actually quite visibly marked where it's been bent by the forming m/c.

Not like this nicely finished Marco one at all.

Maybe it's a ****ty repro that I have and it's just not very well made.

No answers yet but I'll take a closer look at some other lift trims next week.

 

[strobey]

Right so all of the metal trim games I have are taped to some extent, so it's clearly an oversight which is why they switched to plastic in the 90s.

Seem to have two channel thicknesses, 3/8" for standard glass and 1/8" for thinner screen printed glass like taxi. (Thanks @new forest pinball )

Makes the problem even worse if you've got the wrong size, but even the thicker glass is loose because look at the channel section - it's widened and no longer pinches the glass.




So I think the best thing here is a thin plastic shim to protect the artwork and to keep the channel section tight. Then no gooey tape mess needed.

Thoughts?