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Show me your JD mods
- Thread starter cr5000462
- Start date
D
Deleted member 2463
Helpful, thanks.
D
Deleted member 2463
lol - just kidding.
Here is what I would do with it:
New balls, (google ninja)
New Rubbers (Google titan - or pinball shop nl)
LEDs - Comet
ColorDMD
get some foam cleaner from pinballheaven and wax and clean the game
Scrub the legs
get all super chrome metal work
Neil
Here is what I would do with it:
New balls, (google ninja)
New Rubbers (Google titan - or pinball shop nl)
LEDs - Comet
ColorDMD
get some foam cleaner from pinballheaven and wax and clean the game
Scrub the legs
get all super chrome metal work
Neil
D
Deleted member 2463
oh and rebuild the flippers, check the slings and pop bumpers.
The flippers have little opto boards on them in the cabinet that fail over time making the flippers weaker. Pinball heaven sell replacements and when I fitted 2 new ones I beat my high score first game. If ramps are difficult to make check them out...Great game JD, locate a topper if it doesn't have one also.
Not a lot out there for this mate.
The crane is the obvious choice which looks more like an actual crane than the plastic thing supplied.
You can buy the bike but I think it looks out of place because there are no other models on the machine and at £94 it's ridiculous. Star Trek looks fine with another spaceship mod and LOTR looks good with another Orc because there's plenty in there to begin with. A single figurine just stuck on a game with no other models looks odd imo.
I'd just do what Neil suggests (not the bonfire
) and illuminate the playfield as much as possible as it's a dark game.
The optos tip from JP is also a good shout but clean all of them because there are so many shots and ramps. If one of them is not registering a ball the game gets a bit confused.
The crane is the obvious choice which looks more like an actual crane than the plastic thing supplied.
You can buy the bike but I think it looks out of place because there are no other models on the machine and at £94 it's ridiculous. Star Trek looks fine with another spaceship mod and LOTR looks good with another Orc because there's plenty in there to begin with. A single figurine just stuck on a game with no other models looks odd imo.
I'd just do what Neil suggests (not the bonfire
) and illuminate the playfield as much as possible as it's a dark game. The optos tip from JP is also a good shout but clean all of them because there are so many shots and ramps. If one of them is not registering a ball the game gets a bit confused.
Thanks all,
im going to give it a good clean, add some mirror sideblades, crane and LEDs, with some playfield spots too
will also overhaul the flippers with new rubbers
Also, gonzo if as per my past message if your selling that colour and Mod board shoot me a PM
im going to give it a good clean, add some mirror sideblades, crane and LEDs, with some playfield spots too
will also overhaul the flippers with new rubbers
Also, gonzo if as per my past message if your selling that colour and Mod board shoot me a PM
Yeah , the pop bumpers are a nightmare on Dredd 
I
I had that exact same problem when I had a JDYeah , the pop bumpers are a nightmare on Dredd
The Dead World mod is good, had that fitted on mine
razorsedge
Registered
For my machine I wasn't happy with how dark the game was. Also with "Blackout" mode active, the playfield GI dimming was barely noticable.
To remedy both of these in one hit, I crafted 3 "Street Lamps" that bolt to the tops of posts/plastics, as well as fitting a Green light (obvious EXIT colour) pointing up the Blackout ramp. With a simple (transistor free) circuit, the "street lamps" are lit at all times the game is turned on (while the green light stays off), until the "Blackout X2" flasher is flashing. Any time the Blackout flasher runs, the sensing relay (Low power SMD) is activated intermittently by the flasher power. This relay switches the second relay using an external power source, which is delayed from turning on/off for about 1-2 seconds by a capacitor in paralel with its coil (to smooth the flasher ripple). The second relay can then use its NC/NO switch outputs to turn on the street lamps or the green light, at opposite times. There is a switching delay of just over 1 second.
*It's been a while since I played around with this, can't exactly remember the circuit I settled on, but I can record it and post for anyone interested. I set up the game on hire last week at private residence, so can not access details right away.
The effect becomes three added spotlights that add alot of brightness to the playfield in regular play, and when Blackout is started they go Out, and the green Blackout ramp lighting is lit. I'm very happy with it, and others comment on how the effect is so much more dramatic than they remembered. Win Win.
Only other point to note is that Chromed low carbon steel balls (ninja etc.) should never be put into a game with magnets. If new balls are needed use Carbon Steel Precision Balls with Mirror Finish, to save yourself problems. Chrome plated balls will magnetize quite readily, and start sticking to metal things, and each other.
I digress ...
Awesome game, much loved by pinheads in these parts!
To remedy both of these in one hit, I crafted 3 "Street Lamps" that bolt to the tops of posts/plastics, as well as fitting a Green light (obvious EXIT colour) pointing up the Blackout ramp. With a simple (transistor free) circuit, the "street lamps" are lit at all times the game is turned on (while the green light stays off), until the "Blackout X2" flasher is flashing. Any time the Blackout flasher runs, the sensing relay (Low power SMD) is activated intermittently by the flasher power. This relay switches the second relay using an external power source, which is delayed from turning on/off for about 1-2 seconds by a capacitor in paralel with its coil (to smooth the flasher ripple). The second relay can then use its NC/NO switch outputs to turn on the street lamps or the green light, at opposite times. There is a switching delay of just over 1 second.
*It's been a while since I played around with this, can't exactly remember the circuit I settled on, but I can record it and post for anyone interested. I set up the game on hire last week at private residence, so can not access details right away.
The effect becomes three added spotlights that add alot of brightness to the playfield in regular play, and when Blackout is started they go Out, and the green Blackout ramp lighting is lit. I'm very happy with it, and others comment on how the effect is so much more dramatic than they remembered. Win Win.
Only other point to note is that Chromed low carbon steel balls (ninja etc.) should never be put into a game with magnets. If new balls are needed use Carbon Steel Precision Balls with Mirror Finish, to save yourself problems. Chrome plated balls will magnetize quite readily, and start sticking to metal things, and each other.
I digress ...
Awesome game, much loved by pinheads in these parts!
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