Service Menu Trouble

[Pin Dave]

Williams Hurricane
Played for a few years - only trouble was the enter switch on the service menu button assembly never worked. I just manually shorted the switch terminal when I needed it.
Stored the machine for a couple of years (neglected to remove the batteries). Mild corrosion was visible. I removed the WPC board and cleaned with vinegar, water, IPA.
I replaced the service menu button assembly and installed a remote battery case.
Now no buttons work.
Grounding J205 pins 5,6,7,8 does nothing.
The machine powers on and appears to be ready to play, but I cannot put it in free play, and the coin mechanism is not functional.
D19, D20, D21 are all displaying normally.
Is there a way to manually add credts, so I can see if the game is working?

 

[Durzel]

Coin door buttons are one of the first things to go with battery corrosion.

Are those photos before or after you cleaned it? There is visible green corrosion in several places.

 

[Pick Holder]

What I would do is

Remove the chips as the corrosion has probably gone underneath
Neutralise the acid
Meter out all the tracks on both sides of the board
Mega clean
Fit chip sockets
Check out the tracks again
Fit new chips
Pray/cross fingers

As @Durzel correctly said - coin door direct input switches seem to be the first ones to go.

Best of luck. If you arent good at soldering etc (or sodering as you americans say) then pass it on to someone who can. Or just get another board......

 

[Pin Dave]

Now that I zoom in, I can see some corrosion is still present on U16 and the adjacent resistor group. Everything below this is very clean. Do you think this is enough to completely disable the service menu? I'll take another pass at cleaning. How aggressive should I get? Is straight vinegar strong enoungh? Too strong? I work in a chemical lab and have access to just about everything.
Is there another way to add a credit to the machine to test whether or not its actually working?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Pin Dave]

What I would do is

Remove the chips as the corrosion has probably gone underneath
Neutralise the acid
Meter out all the tracks on both sides of the board
Mega clean
Fit chip sockets
Check out the tracks again
Fit new chips
Pray/cross fingers

As @Durzel correctly said - coin door direct input switches seem to be the first ones to go.

Best of luck. If you arent good at soldering etc (or sodering as you americans say) then pass it on to someone who can. Or just get another board......

I'm afraid I'm not very proficient at sodering or soldering, in any country -- though I finally own a halfway descent station and am practicing (I will NOT practice on this board).

 

[Paul]

Question (related, however slightly off topic) - Corroded Soldier due to Alkali (like around the resistors in the middle of the pic) - is there any way or suggestions as to how to remove this?
Yes the components could be cut out, however to be able to clear the holes before putting in replacements then you have to remove the remnants of wire and then re-tin the holes... and in my experience this type of "corroded" solder is almost impossible for the iron to touch!

 

[Durzel]

Do you have a coin mech installed? You could add credits using that. Otherwise I don’t think it will be possible.

This guy seems to know his stuff from posts I’ve read on Pinside:

Pinsider: ChrisHibler | Pinside Community

pinside.com

There are a lot of small traces on the MPU that are easily damaged by corrosion. Without the ability to solder you’re going to be stuck I think. One or more of the components pictured will need replacing, and possibly traces bridged.

 

[Toads]

Question (related, however slightly off topic) - Corroded Soldier due to Alkali (like around the resistors in the middle of the pic) - is there any way or suggestions as to how to remove this?
Yes the components could be cut out, however to be able to clear the holes before putting in replacements then you have to remove the remnants of wire and then re-tin the holes... and in my experience this type of "corroded" solder is almost impossible for the iron to touch!

Generally you would clean the pads then re solder them first before using a de soldering gun.
Gives them a bit of clean solder to stick to.
But as the others have said if your not good with a de soldering station, don't try it.
Yep it's an art.

 

[Pin Dave]

I’m fairly well committed to sending the board off for repairs. – just a few more pics of my current situation to se if anyone knows of a way to ‘fake’ a coin drop for credit. The coin door has a harness connected to it, but the board in the machine doesn’t have a place to connect it. The service menu wires are currently disconnected from the switch assembly, because I didn’t trust the switches were working (intermittent with a continuity test), so I was actuating them manually. There is an odd ground wire attached to the door, but the other end isn’t connected to anything. Inside, there is a momentary switch, which I thought may be the coin door switch, but as far as I know it has never done anything but hang there. – see anything here that is an obvious concern?

 

[Moonraker]

Resistors and chip still bad, hence no door switch operation.

In answer to @Paul 's question you need to get pads as clean as possible using sandpaper (down to the copper track underneath), then clean using white vinegar mixed with water (50% each). Let dry then rinse it off with IPA or PCB cleaning foam. Also be very careful taking the old components off the board as it's very easy to rip up tracks and pads. I normally cut components off then heat the remains allowing what's left to drop out, don't force it.

@Pin Dave You already established that the coin door switches were not working (by shorting before the game was folded), just buy a new set for ease of mind.

 

[Jay Walker]

Hello,

I'm afraid it's probably academic, but the coin switches are the other four 'direct' switches, D 1 through 4, connected via J 205. So the method of simulation is the same as you've already tried, i.e. jumpering some of its pins to ground.

Has the machine had its door changed at some point?. The Sentinel/C220 mechanism fitted wouldn't have worked as things stand due to the interface board not being equipped for it - machines with this 'eca' type* door have a connecting header occupying those vacant connecting pins at lower left (J 4), an 8-way DiL switch block and AIR a jumper, either W1 or W2.

That white switch hanging about is the 'Door Closed' switch, Col. 2, Row 2. It's often left forlorn when a door's changed; the non-electronic 'S 10' door had a mounting incorporated into the frame, but the eca door doesn't (an additional bracket was attached to the cabinet at the corner of the door opening). I don't think it'll affect Hurricane much, though. Older WMS games, up to mid system 11's AIR, also used this bracket.


* Electronic Coin Acceptor

 

[Pick Holder]

There is not really an easy way to fake doing a coin drop. Just replace the board or fix it.

Quite simply it will only get worse !

 

[Balazs]

Hello
I had the same problem with my sttng.
I had bad trace. So I would try to check the continuity beetween the points.
I attached a very good schematic which shows which trace go where.
Also you should check the voltages on the ic s legs.
But first you should cut off the old ics and clean under and put new sockets and ics.
Dedicated switches does not belong to the switch matrix on my sttng.
So check the part which belongs to the dedicated switches
Best wishes
Baz

 

[biglouieuk]

I picked up a.barm find Hurricane today, I have the same issue, battery leak and issues with menu 4 buttons



I couldn't find a way to coin up either. I'll try the clean up tomorrow, but suspect it's a new board for me as I can't see well enough to resolder !

Did you fix this in the end?