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New ramps for No Fear at last!

Rus121

Registered
10 Years
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
2,671
Location
Teesside
After much waiting, i finally got my hands on a FULL ramp kit, plastics kit, and new mountain for no fear. My ramps were battered with the usual jump ramp damage so i decided to refit the lot. 8 hours and £400 later, and i have the top end done, now i just got to fit the undertray ramp with the riveted hardware and it will be back to 100% working order. With this machine being one of the very fastest out there, it takes a fair bit of punishment.

Nasty ramp damage
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Grubby ramps with nasty ball travel marks.
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Broken Sky dive 'drop zone' plastic.
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Old sky dive plastic out the game.
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New sky dive plastic rebuilt and ready to go (45 mins of faffing to build this)
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New sky dive plastic installed
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Ramp magnets in good order (had to go over the ball trails again after this photo)
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Attachments

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Stripped ready for new stuff and a good clean
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I hate these dam afterthought ball travel motivator things. Probably took more time from my life than my smoking habit.
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Let the refit begin!
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Nice and clean, ready for action!
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Oooo shiny new!
Looks great.

Never played a no fear but heard its uber fast!


Sent from my totally useless
iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Oh yeah, the badly faded one? Who knows what horrors lie in wait for the new buyer. Fast pins get hammered beyond belief so i would seriously ask for more info if considering it. Mine broke all the time when i first bought it. Lamp matrix issues, ramp sag issues, magnets shorting on, flipper mechs eating themselves, upper flipper shafts wearing, constant undertray adjustment, airballs hitting the glass etc... Its been fine for ages after i spent a lot of time and money on it, but now after all my hard work fitting these ramps....a bloody switch matrix problem which will most definately torture me for the next few days. great. Hopefully a fivers worth of parts will sort it out.

Anyway, some pics here of the old undertay with some home made bracket by another owner that ended up cutting the opto beam.
2013-01-03 14.57.14.jpg

Old undertray removed.
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New undertray installed.
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This thread is so full of pictures it is practically a shop log. The underside of that playfield is very clean, plus not overly populated like some are.

Are you getting grounds errors on the switch matrix or another problem? How are you testing them?
 
No ground errors, but when the right ramp exit switch is activated, three opto switches trigger at the same time. I removed J207 and J209 and in switch test mode i touched pin 8 on J209 and pin 6 on J207 on the cpu board. Same issue occured so that tells me the problem is on the board and not on the playfield. Im not used to dealing with switch matrix issues, but i am confident i can get it fixed quickly due to some of the components being socketed.

Right ramp exit is controlled via a ULN2803 at U20. Along the column on the same row at U19 there is an LM339 which controls the other switches that activate when right ramp switch is triggered, so i suspect at this point that one or both of these components is fried.
 
I had to do ULN2803 on TAF when I shorted the switch matrix with a loose wire. The power boards LM339 were fine but the LM339's on the opto board were funny, assuming NF has one, disconnect it first and see if it changes the problem.

Is chip U20 socketed already? If not have you removed a chip from a board before? I buy mine from RS components.
 
U20 is socketed on WPC-S machines from factory. After doing the test i described above, i am sure the problem is on the CPU board as with the PF connectors removed, it still has the same problem when i short the two pins at J207 and J209. I do have a good amount of soldering experience and have all the stuff required to do the job, i just never get switch matrix issues. (always everything else..haha)
 
Just a quick update on my NF. After much testing and faffing about the problem is now solved. The cpu board was totally fine. I first tested it and thought 'yep, thats where i need to be looking', but after going back to it i couldnt reproduce the issue with the connectors removed. Cue lots of boring switch and diode testing, and i managed to trace the problem back to a dodgy LM339 on the 16 opto board (the one closest to the large cap at U4). Twas a real pig removing the old component as my side cutters couldnt get in to cut the damn thing off. Had to get the dremel out with a small cutting disc to get it changed, but its back to working 100% anyway.
 
I should have been more confident when I mentioned the opto board in my last post.
I used a dremel from the side too, it sounds drastic but does the job efficiently. Did you put in a socket for the future?

Pleased to hear it is all back and working now.🍵
 
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