Mill Wax - Side Effects ?

[DRD]

This is very well established and widely used as a playfield wax ... http://www.millamusement.com

I find it awful to apply. It gets stuck in the plastics, switches, then stains them like dry toothpaste. When you buff it you end up with loose white flakes everywhere. I much prefer using products like gerlitz.

Virtually ever game I have cleaned has this kind of dry toothpaste staining dotted around it - under plastics, on slingshot switches, on plastic posts, in holes through the pf .... The more games I strip down, the more I wonder whether Mill Wax damages the metal too.

For example, I found that the metal kick-out saucers on my paragon were far more pitted above the playfield than below it, I found a residue that looked like mill wax in various places.

Similarly on my scared stiff. Residue that looked like mill wax in various places. Mechs like this were far worse above the pf than below it ...

 

[PeteB]

YES!!!!

This is why you should never use wax on a playfield, especially Millwax. One thing you didn't mention is how much it damages plastics, turning them brittle. They eventually crack and break away leaving crap everywhere. This whole issue surrounding wax is a drum I've been banging for years.

A high quality car wax like Meguiars Gold Class or Turtlewax is ok for FULLY stripped playfields but trying to put a layer of it on an assembled playfield is a big no no.

Use Pledge, and Pledge only. You can spray it directly on to parts or on to a microfiber towel first. Use the towel to buff. Hard to reach areas can be tickled with a soft dry paint brush. You'll never see that white toothpaste on anything ever again, and your plastics will thank you for it.

 

[kevlar]

I used to use it and thought it was ok until I tried Gerlitz. The thing that annoyed me was that I would be going back for days after using it brushing away the millwax dust that seems to appear everywhere, dried leftover bits I guess.

 

[darren_ross]

I've not had a problem with mill wax. I used to use car turtle wax which was great for giving a waxy layer which lasted but buffing it off would leave the white powder. Have not found this with mill wax. Almost drys clear and then you buff it off. Have to put a few layers on to get the smooth finish i want but have not seen this tooth paste like effect.

 

[JT.]

YES!!!!

This is why you should never use wax on a playfield, especially Millwax. One thing you didn't mention is how much it damages plastics, turning them brittle. They eventually crack and break away leaving crap everywhere. This whole issue surrounding wax is a drum I've been banging for years.

A high quality car wax like Meguiars Gold Class or Turtlewax is ok for FULLY stripped playfields but trying to put a layer of it on an assembled playfield is a big no no.

Use Pledge, and Pledge only. You can spray it directly on to parts or on to a microfiber towel first. Use the towel to buff. Hard to reach areas can be tickled with a soft dry paint brush. You'll never see that white toothpaste on anything ever again, and your plastics will thank you for it.

Nooooooooo. Not Pledge - it has silicone in it - know it's easy, but it'll make a later playfield resto with clearcoat a nightmare. I agree about the stuff DRD was using, I always found that more effort than it was worth. But best off to choose something with only stuff in it that will dissolve, unlike Pledge.

 

[PeteB]

Nooooooooo. Not Pledge - it has silicone in it - know it's easy, but it'll make a later playfield resto with clearcoat a nightmare. I agree about the stuff DRD was using, I always found that more effort than it was worth. But best off to choose something with only stuff in it that will dissolve, unlike Pledge.

This is a myth and total boll0cks. I've clearcoated playfields that were Pledged before. All you do is wipe them down with thinners or Isopropyl alcohol first. Problem solved.

Anyway, who even bothers to clearcoat their playfields? I thought pinball machines were for playing, not sitting around like pieces of art in a museum?

 

[JT.]

This is a myth and total boll0cks. I've clearcoated playfields that were Pledged before. All you do is wipe them down with thinners or Isopropyl alcohol first. Problem solved.

Anyway, who even bothers to clearcoat their playfields? I thought pinball machines were for playing, not sitting around like pieces of art in a museum?

A simple google search suggests you are wrong - neither thinners nor isopropyl will dissolve silicone. And quit that tone will you.

 

[PeteB]

A simple google search suggests you are wrong - neither thinners nor isopropyl will dissolve silicone. And quit that tone will you.

Link??

 

[darren_ross]

A propane torch or wire brush will get that silicone off no problem.

 

[Jonwolf]

This debate goes round and round. Pledge/Millwax/Gerlitz etc etc.
For best results, mix unicorn poop with the tears of a mermaid, then buff lightly with the hair of a fallen angel.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Alan Syson]

Wait 'til it explodes.

 

[Monkeyboypaul]

For best results, mix unicorn poop with the tears of a mermaid, then buff lightly with the hair of a fallen angel.

Oi! That's trademarked!

 

[PeteB]

Oi! That's trademarked!

Let me guess... PPS?

 

[Monkeyboypaul]

Let me guess... PPS?

The very same.

 

[Replay]

Much prefer Caruba myself

 

[kevlar]

I like to use pledge on my head, water beads nicely in the rain, no embarrassing mill wax dust and if I do decide to clear coat my dome one day I'll deal with the residue then.

 

[replicas]

Wait 'til it explodes.

And it will.........................................................................................

 

[Mfresh]

I emailed Henrik Maurer at Pinball Dreams about this the other day as he does playfield restorations and clearcoating all the time. His view is: "answer is really simple - DO NOT EVER PUT ANYTHING LIKE SILICONE SPRAY OR ANYTHING SIMILAR (pinball spray or milwax) on a playfield." His advice is use nothing but Carnuba wax.

Make of that what you will - but it's good enough for me....

 

[darren_ross]

So don't use millwax which is the recommended pinball wax by loads of suppliers?
I'll just throw it away then

 

[stoptap]

Gerlitz for the playfield, Millwax on the cab.

 

[darren_ross]

Gerlitz for the playfield, Millwax on the cab.

Okay I've bought some. Just waiting on the next person to tell me it eats the playfield

 

[stoptap]

Okay I've bought some. Just waiting on the next person to tell me it eats the playfield

Gerlitz ? No chance. Guitarists wouldn't be having any of that.
Makes the playfield look like glass.

 

[Mfresh]

So don't use millwax which is the recommended pinball wax by loads of suppliers?
I'll just throw it away then

Looking after pinball machines is like looking after babies: lots of people have advice, and often the advice is conflicting. My approach is to heed the advice of someone who I think knows what they are talking about and whose advice I can live with.

Also, when it comes to babies, being able to pretend to be asleep for longer than your partner is always a useful skill. Everyone here who is a parent knows what I am talking about...

 

[PeteB]

Pledge, pledge, pledge...



With a pinball machine you have a steel ball (a heavy one at that) moving at high velocity on painted wood. Wax, no matter what kind you use, isn't going to protect a damn thing. So, the only way to extend the life of your playfield is to reduce friction. Two ways of doing that are regular new balls, and treating the playfield surface with something that allows the ball to move faster and more freely.

For operators and home owners, the only product which does that with the minimum amount of fuss while also making the game look its best is Pledge. It trumps every other treatment in every way.

Carnuba wax might be the safest option if you plan on clear coating your playfield and can't be bothered to wipe it down first. Like I said I use it when doing a full strip, but it doesn't reduct friction as much as Pledge. I'll go over Carnuba wax with Pledge afterwards.

It's all personal opinion. For me I like an easy life and my games to look their best.

 

[Mfresh]

If the ball moves faster then surely that means it has more kinetic energy, because kinetic energy is related to the square of its velocity. The more energy the ball has, the greater its destructive power as it bashes into things or impacts parts of the playfield more energetically.

Therefore anything that increases the speed of the ball must necessarily lead to increased playfield destruction, and we should in fact all coat our playfields with some sort of ball retardant - such as honey.

Discuss.

 

[stoptap]

How do you post gifs ?

 

[darren_ross]

 

[darren_ross]

How do you post gifs ?

Save the image and upload it like you do a picture

 

[PeteB]

If the ball moves faster then surely that means it has more kinetic energy, because kinetic energy is related to the square of its velocity. The more energy the ball has, the greater its destructive power as it bashes into things or impacts parts of the playfield more energetically.

Therefore anything that increases the speed of the ball must necessarily lead to increased playfield destruction, and we should in fact all coat our playfields with some sort of ball retardant - such as honey.

Discuss.

 

[stoptap]

Save the image and upload it like you do a picture

Don't think it works like that on an iPad mate.