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Help needed from the electrical nerds please (not pinball related)

RudeDogg1

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10 Years
Joined
Dec 27, 2012
Messages
8,548
Location
Barnstaple, Devon
Hi guys just wanted to pick your brains got abit of a head scratcher. So at my mums I have a ground level pond I built years ago because its in the ground I had no feesible way to fit an overflow. My fix was to use a spare pump i had which I set up a float switch to to activate the pump once the water level goes above where I want it. The Float is powered by a power adaptor that is spliced into a relay which also has the pumpms power spliced into it. and its all worked fine for 5+ years. It stopped working last summer the pumps working because ive switched it over so i can plug it in to drain it back down when needed. I changed the float at the weekend which made no difference. So i changed the relay also no difference. Now Im stumped what should I be testing? Im gonna check the continuity once a new multimeter tuns up because my old one died in case one of the wires has been damaged or chewed even tho they are burried in conduit
 
Sounds like you lost the live or neutral at the power adaptor. Could also be a corroded terminal or broken wire you can’t see. You’ll need an earth to be able to check the conductors properly. PVC cables buried underground even in a conduit can get damaged easily by roots et.
 
the adapter and relay are in a weatherproof enclosure. There is still a power light on the adaptor deff more to investigate
Even the best weatherproof enclosures don’t cure moisture. What happens is the temp outside and the temp inside the box is different particularly through the winter and it condensates. If you have power you likely have a loose connection somewhere.
 
There is a special gel to fill the box so your contacts won't corrode.
So the relay is switched on by low voltage provided by a power adapter and is switching mains? It isn't activated by the float anymore? Measure the voltage at the float and at the relay coil with float on/off, also continuity to ground at the other end of the coil. Can you activate the relay directly cutting out the float?
 
There is a special gel to fill the box so your contacts won't corrode.
So the relay is switched on by low voltage provided by a power adapter and is switching mains? It isn't activated by the float anymore? Measure the voltage at the float and at the relay coil with float on/off, also continuity to ground at the other end of the coil. Can you activate the relay directly cutting out the float?
No I can’t get it to click at all i even replaced it
 
OK, so you have a power adapter outputting low voltage DC, one end of the output goes to the float, from the float to the relay coil, relay coil to second wire on adapter output?
If so:
- Measure voltage across adaptor to ensure it works.
- Measure continuity from adaptor to float and coil
- Adaptor voltage should be present across open float
- Adaptor voltage should be across coil on closed float
- Switch relay direct at adaptor and see if it clicks
Report back
 
You should have two circuits galvanically separated by the relay.
- Control circuit consisting of power adaptor, float and relay control coil
- Power circuit with mains, relay and pump
Control circuit should be low voltage driven by the AC adaptor, I'd expect one wire from the adaptor going to the float, then to the relay coil then to the second wire of the adaptor. Is that what you have there?
 
You should have two circuits galvanically separated by the relay.
- Control circuit consisting of power adaptor, float and relay control coil
- Power circuit with mains, relay and pump
Control circuit should be low voltage driven by the AC adaptor, I'd expect one wire from the adaptor going to the float, then to the relay coil then to the second wire of the adaptor. Is that what you have there?
Something like that i made it 5+ years ago sooo… lol
 
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