How difficult or risky is it to remove the head of a 1990s B/W machine? I've done it for all my 1980s machines but is it a more complicated task with a more modern machine? This is all about getting them in my basement. Thanks for your advice.
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Head removal ?
- Thread starter Jb3d
- Start date
If you have the manual for the game it's easy as you can double check all connectors. I have done a TZ and SS and the only thing to also check is that all earth connectors are located and fitted. 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just 2 bolts each hinge inside the head. You can leave them attached to the cab but wrap them up so they dont damage the sides of the cab. Will be doing its myself soon, its pretty straight forward just take lots of pics first.
Thank you both @J.C.Rox and @Ady Pope . This is really good news. My plans for creating a new entrance to the basement had gone a bit awry but if I can take the head off easily I should just need to install a fully opening window to replace the rotten existing one. I calculate it should then be possible to slide a headless machine through the widow. See the picture:
What game is it ? Just be aware of this potential issue .... happened to me on a Fish Tales. 
Lesson learned.
http://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/j124-on-wpc-games-a-warning.2727/#post-24522
The connectors are keyed which makes it hard to put them in the wrong place - but it doesn't hurt to label them just to be on the safe side. Plus if someone has replaced one it may no longer be keyed.
Lesson learned.http://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/j124-on-wpc-games-a-warning.2727/#post-24522
The connectors are keyed which makes it hard to put them in the wrong place - but it doesn't hurt to label them just to be on the safe side. Plus if someone has replaced one it may no longer be keyed.
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2014
- Messages
- 126
I removed my TAF backbox to move it, started off labelling everything, ended up taking lots of photos, & was straight forward, just takes a bit of time.
Just remember cloth or similar between hinge plate either side and cabinet when removing back box
Just remember cloth or similar between hinge plate either side and cabinet when removing back box
Personally I'd just sort a proper entrance that's gonna be a right ball ache having to do that every time to get machines in and out
R
RobZombie
I have a basement window almost identical to that. On mine it's still a 5ft drop from the window level. How are you planning on lowering that much weight? And how would you ever get it out again?
I have done this many times, it is a wretched job. You just need to be methodical. It is much more complicated than on an old bally as there are many, many more connectors. My tips
1. Photos, photos, photos. It is quite possible to snap a wire off a connector when you do this.
2. An extra fine sharpie. Write the correct pin description on each connector as you remove them - j102 etc
3. Fold the head down, remove the wiring loom from the base of the head. Dont let it fall down the slot into the cab
4. Put the exposed wires protruding from the cabinet in a carrier bag after you have pulled them out of the head, tape round the top of the bag to keep everything in place
5. Hinge the head back up, I find it easier to remove the head from the hinge (three bolts each side), as opposed to removing the hinge from the cab, watch that you don't scratch the cab when the released hinge swings down
6. If you get lost when putting it back together, ask on here for a photo of the relevant area
1. Photos, photos, photos. It is quite possible to snap a wire off a connector when you do this.
2. An extra fine sharpie. Write the correct pin description on each connector as you remove them - j102 etc
3. Fold the head down, remove the wiring loom from the base of the head. Dont let it fall down the slot into the cab
4. Put the exposed wires protruding from the cabinet in a carrier bag after you have pulled them out of the head, tape round the top of the bag to keep everything in place
5. Hinge the head back up, I find it easier to remove the head from the hinge (three bolts each side), as opposed to removing the hinge from the cab, watch that you don't scratch the cab when the released hinge swings down
6. If you get lost when putting it back together, ask on here for a photo of the relevant area
I have done similar (removing head, not putting stuff in a basement/cellar) I find the connectors are usually to hard a surface to write on so I use marker ties like below.mthere are usually some lying around as i used to use them a lot in work for projects. I also usually mark the connectors anyhow me one side so I know what side is facing away from the board when reinstalling
That or coloured cable ties and then a chart of what colour is what etc.
That or coloured cable ties and then a chart of what colour is what etc.
I had to strip the head off my first Pin when it was delivered because our doors were just slightly too narrow for it to fit through (and this was before I heard about the 'shark fin' method).
So yeah, my first Pin and no prior experience so I had to bite the bullet and just do it.
I took a shedload of photos and then remove the connectors. Took me a while to figure out how to remove the backglass and then how to get the head off but once i'd sussed that out it was relatively plain sailing.
So yeah, my first Pin and no prior experience so I had to bite the bullet and just do it.
I took a shedload of photos and then remove the connectors. Took me a while to figure out how to remove the backglass and then how to get the head off but once i'd sussed that out it was relatively plain sailing.
Thank you all for your comments and advice. I appreciate it. I think I'm clear that with care, caution and the tips you've suggested, I can take the head on and off. But @RobZombie and @RudeDogg1 raise more fundamental questions about actually getting a machine in and out this way. The problem is that I can't get a modern machine, with its deep cabinet at the far end, down the stairs. I can get 1980s machines down with about 2mm to spare. I really would like a modern machine ...don't know which one yet and this seems the only feasible route without creating a full blown walk in door where the window is. The house is a big old symmetrical building and the consensus is that a new doorway down there would look odd. Can't create one at the back for different reasons. So...lots to think about and thanks again. I'll keep,you updated.
This is the view from inside...I think this would be a manageable drop. Rest it on the window sill, put two legs on, slide the rest in?
R
RobZombie
Yeah, that looks fairly manageable. Still going to be a hell of a job though. Good luck with that! A couple of long planks of wood to slide it down should be ok. My basement is a lot deeper but thankfully has a good set of stairs.
Yes, it will be quite a job getting them in and out but it is already a 3/4 person job getting smaller machines round the existing stairs. I guess it will encourage me to keep pins for a longer time! It was Andy (The Legend) who first suggesting thinking about some sort of access via the window. I'll report back on how things go. Currently my builder has disappeared off the face of the earth.