What's new
By:
Pinball info

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Bride of Pinbot head turning issue.

G

GrizzlyNate

Registered
Joined
Dec 15, 2024
Messages
29
Location
Texas
Hope I can find some help as I have read most every other forum I can find on the issues and cannot for the life of me figure out the issue I am having. I have followed a lot of advice given to others and will give a run down of what I am finding in hopes someone can point me to a direction to find an answer or a path. Teaching my self as I go as I really want to learn how to work on these older pins to bring back to life and share for friends and family to enjoy.

I have motor switch or relay error.

Starting with the motor regulator board. I have check to make sure that j1 pin one is receiving 20v and it is. Then on j2 pin one it has 12v coming of the motor head board.

Next I have checked the relay assembly and this is what I am reading. J1 pin 1 blue/org wire has 13v and pin 2 grey/yellow wire has 13v. J2. Pin 4/7 gry/yel from motor egulator have 12v and pin 6/5 blu/yel have 12v. This leads j2 pins 1 (blue wire) 12v out and pin 2 (black wire) 12v out.

Going to the motor I have 12v into the motor on both blue and black wire.

When I turn the motor to run in manual test I hear and see the relay switch but still have 20v to motor reg board but only get .5v out and this carries through (relay assembly) j2 4/7 and 5/6 and then to the motor. I hear it try but nothing rotates as I only have .5v on both legs to motor.

Let me know if I need to explain better just trying to figure out where to check. I have tried jumping around it with q20 to ground but get the same thing.

Have tested motor with 9v battery and it works
 
So your 12V from the regulator board drops to .5V when the motor is enabled? That means your regulator board is shot. Most probably Q1, a TIP102. You can follow the 20V through the board and see where it gets lost.
 
drhex said:
So your 12V from the regulator board drops to .5V when the motor is enabled? That means your regulator board is shot. Most probably Q1, a TIP102. You can follow the 20V through the board and see where it gets lost.
Click to expand...
When you say shot do you mean I can follow and see which part needs to be changed out on the board or will I have to get a new board. Sorry for the simple question but still new to all this but learning.

Yes when motor is enabled the 20v stays constant coming into the board but the 12v coming off the board drops to .5v. Is there a diagram that will show me the best way to see how the 20v is converted to the 12v? Should it still be 12v con in my off that board when the motor is turned on? The othering to note is when the motor is turned back off the v goes back to 12v.
 
Yes, should be 12V continous. This is a very simple voltage regulator formed out of a Zener and one transistor. The schematic is in the wiring section of the manual. Given you get 12V without load I think the Zener is fine and it is the transistor.
 
drhex said:
Yes, should be 12V continous. This is a very simple voltage regulator formed out of a Zener and one transistor. The schematic is in the wiring section of the manual. Given you get 12V without load I think the Zener is fine and it is the transistor.
Click to expand...
I think I have found the issue. Testing the zener diode on the board I am getting both ways 0L. Going to take it off the board and double check.

I do have one other question. I thought the diode on the relay board was bad as it read both ways but then I took it off the board it was just one way. Do you always have to take them off the board for them to be read correctly? Will find out on this one once I take it off. The transistor measured with one negative and 2 positives .549. Thank you again for all help.
 
I can't see a diode on the relay board in the schematic in the manual but this is probably a snubber diode to eat up the energy stored in the relay coil when deactivated. Such a diode is wired in parallel to the coil winding which has a resistance in the Ohms (you also have them on the flipper coils e.g.). Your DMM now measures the resistance of th coil, not the diode. So in short: it depends on the circuit, safe way is to lift one leg.
 
Last edited:
drhex said:
I can't see a diode on the relay board but in the schematic in the manual but this is probably a snubber diode to eat up the energy stored in the relay coil when deactivated. Such a diode is wired in parallel to the coil winding which has a resistance in the Ohms (you also have them on the flipper coils e.g.). Your DMM now measures the resistance of th coil, not the diode. So in short: it depends on the circuit, safe way is to lift one leg.
Click to expand...
 
Will this be the same on the motor board or if reading 0L both ways means it’s bad. I have watched tons of videos but was unsure if still on this board would do the same. I’ll be able to de solder soon. Just thought I would get all my questions in not knowing what time zone your in.
 
According to the schematic there are two diodes on the regulator board, one normal one ensuring proper polarity of connected voltage and D2, which is a Zener. Zeners are special as the conduct normally in one direction and start conducting the other way over a certain voltage, in this case 13 volts. This means that with a normal DMM it will act as a normal diode in testing but in this specific circuit drop the 20V to 12V for the motor. You should see it conducting in one direction, but that isn't what is needed here. Measure voltage across it with loaded and unloaded board, should always be around 13V. If it isn't, it may well be shot.
Page 3-3 in the manual has the schematic, just follow the voltage along the top path and see where it fails loaded/unloaded. J1-1 should always have 20V, you should have the same -.3 to .6V after D1 and then 12V on the other side of Q1. R1 isn't in the parts list but should be a very low value or just a piece of wire.
 
drhex said:
According to the schematic there are two diodes on the regulator board, one normal one ensuring proper polarity of connected voltage and D2, which is a Zener. Zeners are special as the conduct normally in one direction and start conducting the other way over a certain voltage, in this case 13 volts. This means that with a normal DMM it will act as a normal diode in testing but in this specific circuit drop the 20V to 12V for the motor. You should see it conducting in one direction, but that isn't what is needed here. Measure voltage across it with loaded and unloaded board, should always be around 13V. If it isn't, it may well be shot.
Page 3-3 in the manual has the schematic, just follow the voltage along the top path and see where it fails loaded/unloaded. J1-1 should always have 20V, you should have the same -.3 to .6V after D1 and then 12V on the other side of Q1. R1 isn't in the parts list but should be a very low value or just a piece of wire.
Click to expand...
Ok with motor off I have J1-1 22v, after D1 13.3V, after Q1 12.6V and that carries out to J2-1. Motor on J1-1 22v, after D1 15.4v, after Q1 12.6 and that out. So all I all it’s working fine. I am at the machine and doing these test live. This is without motor hooked up.


Motor attached.


So here are the readings at the pin set of the relay. Motor off. J2 5/6 pin 12v, 4/7 12v, 2 12v, 1 12v, J1 pin 1 12v, 2 .61. This has both leads to motor 12v. Motor on. J2 5/6 pin .57v, 4/7 .57v, 2 .57v, 1 .57v. J1 pin 1 13v, pin 2 13 13v. This has both leads to motor off .57 V.

Now back to motor regulator with motor attached

Ok with motor off I have J1-1 22v, after D1 13.3V, after Q1 12.6V and that carries out to J2-1. Motor on J1-1 22v, after D1 1.1V, after Q1 .57v and that out. So all I all it’s working fine. I am at the machine and doing these test live.

When I turn the motor back off the voltage goes back at a slow climb to pre motor on V.

When I flip the motor on I hear a something at the motor. I have tested the motor with a 9 volt battery and it spins and when I flip battery it spins.

So under load loosing the 12 V after D1. I am waiting on the part today for deliver and will replace that diode.

Let me know if any of this makes sense as trying to give accurate info to the best of my knowledge as you can tell is limited but I am learning.
 
drhex said:
According to the schematic there are two diodes on the regulator board, one normal one ensuring proper polarity of connected voltage and D2, which is a Zener. Zeners are special as the conduct normally in one direction and start conducting the other way over a certain voltage, in this case 13 volts. This means that with a normal DMM it will act as a normal diode in testing but in this specific circuit drop the 20V to 12V for the motor. You should see it conducting in one direction, but that isn't what is needed here. Measure voltage across it with loaded and unloaded board, should always be around 13V. If it isn't, it may well be shot.
Page 3-3 in the manual has the schematic, just follow the voltage along the top path and see where it fails loaded/unloaded. J1-1 should always have 20V, you should have the same -.3 to .6V after D1 and then 12V on the other side of Q1. R1 isn't in the parts list but should be a very low value or just a piece of wire.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
drhex said:
Happy to help!
Click to expand...
One more question. I have the pin working and played and the head does like it should rotating with no issues. However, as I have watched a few videos as looking for a few parts I noticed the head spins the wrong way vs how it spins on all other machines. Now with that being said it plays fine and if I lock a ball in the mouth it rotates to the eyes, then the machine face and then human. If I fail along the way it rotates back so from a playing perspective it works fine. Just did not now what I need to do to fix the way so it will spin correctly forward. Might leave alone but in the end I think to have it work correctly would be ideal. Any advice is appreciated and if its leave well enough alone I will take that as well.
 
Is it possible that the motor is connected the wrong way round, ie turn the connector for the motor around? Does it go both ways in testing? The relais is what makes it go the other way. If that isn‘t working it will only turn one way (which may be the wrong direction)
 
In testing it will go both ways. The connection only hooks up one way but being someone else project they may have soldered the wires backwards back into the motor. I could switch those and then reset the face plates to got the other way. I had to swap them to let it spin left vs right as it should. It homes it self this way. I will look at swapping the connections on the motor and fix the face plates. May look at just playing it as well. Call it the unicorn bride of Pinbot. Easy fix is to change the polarity of the wires connected to the motor. Thank you again for all your help.
 
Been reading this post and trying to remember what I did when I had this similar problem.
At my age I forget things.
Try replacing U7 & U8 on the power driver bd.
They’re both 4N25 8 pin opto isolators.
Normally used for Lane change. One had gone bad causing the head to throw a wobbly.
This was 10 yrs ago but I’m sure I’m right. check yr schematics.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom