BK2K Playfield Restore: Mylar Removed, touched up and Clear Coated

[Biff]

<duplicate of post in Yahoo groups, with easier to get to images>



ll being well, this play field will be in the BK2K for the SLAM! Will also do a straw pol on the machine during show - after people have played it and compared to other non-clear coat BK2K machines.

Hi​

I picked up the above from My brothers on the way back from the meet yesterday. ​

Some images on FB of the playfields. They were pretty unplayabul when i got​

them - like a numpty i did not take any b4 pics though!​

My bro did the clear coat for me, i preped and touched up.​

Big thanks to Mat Adams for letting me have the playfields last year!​

I did make a few errors on colour matching, but this was my first play field​

touch up and prep- and its probably more the fact that i know where they are...​

​

Anyway, they are now in the bathroom with towel radiators on full boar to harden​

them off a bit quicker.​

Removed Mylar wih mixture of freesing and non freesing using a plastic razor​

blade. ​

To be honest, its 50/50 between the two merthods. If you don't freeze, you get​

the sticky stuff off aswell. If you do freese you leave the sticky on and you​

have to go back over ot to remove with Panel wipe degreaser.​

I didn't do any damage believe it or not!​

The biggest pain was removing the old insert decals and replacing with new! ​

They had eaten into the inserts, so i actualy took off a mm or two of the​

insert with it, this was headache later as i had to clean them back up again!​

For the record Milwax is Silicon based and we had a couple of issues clear​

coating with silicon contaminating - we think blowing out the slots and holes in​

the fields between flatting and re coat may have loosend small bits of​

accumulated milwax dust - not sure. In any case it was not a big issue and​

flatted out fine.​

Would i do it again?​

Dont know yet, i am going to wait until i can play it before i do any more,​

which won't be for at least three or four weeks whil i wait for it to harden​

properly :-(((​

​

JB​

 

[Paul]

JB



Cracking job - what did you use to Clear it with, and what were your thoughts on how easy it was to work with?



Paul

 

[Biff]

Automotive 2 pack. Not sure which make, my brother did it for me. I have doen some sparaying, but its all his kit so didnt get to play this tim :-( but it went on fine. Faltting took less than 10 mins. Biggest oissue was the silcon from past polishes used on the board. But once we figured this out, we were careful and it didnt realy happen again.



I probably spent around 20-30 hrs over the period of around 5 weeks, getting rid of Mylar, cleaning up and touching up.



During the spraying, the largest amount of time was spent cleaning down the gun...



There were two sprey sessions, over a three day period. The third day was spent final flat and polish.



Each s[ray session i think we did two - three coats. The top playfiled was by far the best - it looks brand new! Apart from some of the staining on the white - under plastics anyway!



He reckoned, in case i am asked, to do the same again would cpost 2-300 quicd, exlude dellivery and prep. Assumes that field is empty and has been touched up - just needs a light scotcbright and degrease.



Not sure he s taking orders just yet, but that's how much one might expect to pay.



I think we used almost a litre of product.



Cheers



JB

 

[Biff]

Sorry - if yuo meant clean / clear (prep) then i used 'panel wipe' degreaser - when i was little i used to use this as lighter fluid in my Zipo. Didn't press so hard once i had the decals and acrylic touch ups on though! I tested a bit i new was under plastic before i got stuck in though. Scotch bright was used, grey and orange, mostly grey though as it was the least abrasive.



Mylar took about 6-8 hrs to remove. Two methods, plastic razor balde and the freese - frease was more messy in the long run and the plastic razor blade is recomended for anyone that likes picking scabs...







JB

 

[Paul]

He reckoned, in case i am asked, to do the same again would cpost 2-300 quicd, exlude dellivery and prep. Assumes that field is empty and has been touched up - just needs a light scotcbright and degrease.



Not sure he s taking orders just yet, but that's how much one might expect to pay.



I think we used almost a litre of product.



Cheers



JB

Just a suggestion - If the results are good then i think he may well get a decent raft of orders if he's looking to take something like that on, since there's not really anyone this side of the pond that offers that kind of service....



Not after it myself at the mo, just thought i'd let ya know

Paul

 

[Eddie Twadds]

This chap has been used by a few of us Northern pin monkeys http://mesi-art.co.uk/ He charges about £200 for a basic touch-up and clear job.



My TZ and ToM are going to get the full treatment based on his work to date.

 

[Paul]

This chap has been used by a few of us Northern pin monkeys http://mesi-art.co.uk/ He charges about £200 for a basic touch-up and clear job.



My TZ and ToM are going to get the full treatment based on his work to date.

Eddie,



Cool - have you any pics you can post of Matt's work???



Cheers

Paul

 

[Adam]

I'm looking to get into doing this myself.

Im just in the final stages of rebuilding my WH20 following full airbrush treatment and clearcoat.

Got an AFM playfield I'm in the stages of doing, and I've got trashed safecracker playfield waiting to be done too.



Will have to get some pics uploaded of my results.



I wanted to practice on my own playfields first before I take on anyone else's stuff

 

[ronsplooter]

Looks good JB, can't wait to play it at the Slam