Pinball info
Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Found it! Bally Under Cabinet Power Switch 1979 Paragon
- Thread starter DRD
- Start date
Electric shocks? holy crap!
On @Nedreud recommendation I replaced the 110V rated switch in my Gold Ball with a modern 240V as below
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/1746397
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/1746397
Shocks! Holy ****, get rid of that sucker! And then spend the day making sure that earth bond is sound.
Maplin if you've got one near: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/10a-toggle-switch-dpst-jk26d
Maplin if you've got one near: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/10a-toggle-switch-dpst-jk26d
Thanks for the suggestions, both on the replacement switch and the quality of the earthing.
Firstly, presumably I need a Dpdt (double pole double throw switch) ?
I tested the earthing strip using the continuity feature of my multi meter to test whether the machine made it through to the earth pin on the 13a three pin plug. It did from various spots. Including the under cabinet toggle switch thread and the metal toggle switch itself.
I had a new main fuse box in the house a couple of years ago, and I had lots of individual breakers put in so that when a 240v light blew, it only took out one circuit). This is super sensitive, and my paragon has not tripped it.
This is the reality of a 35 year old machine that will have been bodied and hacked innumerate times though. I have always been concerned when I buy old things that use 240v, but I always though my fuse box would protect me. Perhaps I am being naive here.
Firstly, presumably I need a Dpdt (double pole double throw switch) ?
I tested the earthing strip using the continuity feature of my multi meter to test whether the machine made it through to the earth pin on the 13a three pin plug. It did from various spots. Including the under cabinet toggle switch thread and the metal toggle switch itself.
I had a new main fuse box in the house a couple of years ago, and I had lots of individual breakers put in so that when a 240v light blew, it only took out one circuit). This is super sensitive, and my paragon has not tripped it.
This is the reality of a 35 year old machine that will have been bodied and hacked innumerate times though. I have always been concerned when I buy old things that use 240v, but I always though my fuse box would protect me. Perhaps I am being naive here.
I'm just as wary as you about old electrical stuff, especially from the US where a) back in the 70s and 80s the safety standards weren't like they are today and b) there's a slightly lackadaisical attitude because 120V is considered more "safe" and less likely to kill you than 240V. This is of course mis-placed trust. 120V will fry you good and proper just like 240V 
Having good/modern domestic fuse equipment is good, but always best to make sure any equipment is up to snuff too. If in doubt, get someone who knows. Dying ain't worth it.
But that aside, you shouldn't be getting any kind of tingle from a switch like this. If you're up to it stick you multimeter on AC volts and measure between the earth and the switch body. It should be zero. Anything else means the internal switch insulation is failing/failed. Get a new switch anyway! Be careful when do this as obviously there's live 240V mains on the switch terminals.
As for switch type you'll only need a DPST (Double Pole, Single Throw) which is effectively two SPST (Single Pole, Single Throw) switches under common control. You only need Single Throw because you just want to break or make the connection, not switch it back and forth between two options. You need Double Pole because for a master power switch it's best to kill both the live and neutral connections:
For details about different switch types, go Wikipedia! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch#Contact_terminology
The switch itself should be rated for at least 3A but the large toggle switches used on these games are usually all good for at least 10A @ 250VAC.
Having good/modern domestic fuse equipment is good, but always best to make sure any equipment is up to snuff too. If in doubt, get someone who knows. Dying ain't worth it.But that aside, you shouldn't be getting any kind of tingle from a switch like this. If you're up to it stick you multimeter on AC volts and measure between the earth and the switch body. It should be zero. Anything else means the internal switch insulation is failing/failed. Get a new switch anyway! Be careful when do this as obviously there's live 240V mains on the switch terminals.
As for switch type you'll only need a DPST (Double Pole, Single Throw) which is effectively two SPST (Single Pole, Single Throw) switches under common control. You only need Single Throw because you just want to break or make the connection, not switch it back and forth between two options. You need Double Pole because for a master power switch it's best to kill both the live and neutral connections:
For details about different switch types, go Wikipedia! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch#Contact_terminology
The switch itself should be rated for at least 3A but the large toggle switches used on these games are usually all good for at least 10A @ 250VAC.
Wandering if I should change fp one now
Thanks or the guidance. When I get the new switch I will dissect the old one to see if I can spot the cause of this and will revert if I can see anything awry.
But on a practical point, you can just look at the state of the insulation on the wiring to know there is cause for concern. If I bought a 35 yr old toaster, I would replace the flex. Replacing every 240v wire in a pinball machine ain't so easy unfortunately.
But on a practical point, you can just look at the state of the insulation on the wiring to know there is cause for concern. If I bought a 35 yr old toaster, I would replace the flex. Replacing every 240v wire in a pinball machine ain't so easy unfortunately.
yeh no prob !!
years ago i was getting a very small electric on my sttng on the side rails, when swicthing off .
it turn out there was a section of earth bead missing in the cab !!
years ago i was getting a very small electric on my sttng on the side rails, when swicthing off .
it turn out there was a section of earth bead missing in the cab !!