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Bally Black Jack

  • Thread starter Thread starter jimmy55
  • Start date Start date
J

jimmy55

HI Folks,



Although I have had a few coin machines in the past, I have been tempted by a Bally Black Jack today. It looks in really original condition, lights up well and doesn't look like its been 'messed around with'. I have been told 'It only needs a new relay to work' ....not sure what that would involve!

Its £450 as is ....does that sound a good proposition? Any advice for a newbie appreciated. Jim
 
Not my specialist field on that era but the amount of time I have heard that it only needs a single easy fit item to be fully working.

So why does the seller not fit this and then sell the machine fully working.

Tread with care.

I am sure someone with a little more knowledge about this era of machine might have a better answer to your question.

By the way welcome to the forum, And why not tell us a little about yourself and where abouts in the country you are based in the new members section.

D.
 
Many thanks .....I posted this fairly quickly as I was looking for a bit of advice before 'negotiations' tomorrow! I'll keep you posted and say hello properly if I becone a new owner! Thanks again, Jim
 
Nice one. Hello and welcome to the forum, Jim.



I'm a straight to the point guy (!) and you asked, so advice as follows:



If it didn't come with a manual then download one from here:

http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=309



You need to get the old battery off the MPU (top left PCB) ASAP as compnents are being eaten by battery acid damage (various ones bottom left corner). This need to be rectified before any further damage is done. See:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#The_Single_Largest_Culprit_in_MPU_death

Component replacement kits are available here:

http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-42.asp

The alternative is to purchase a replacement an alltek pcb. These guys normally have them but it looks they're out of stock at the mo.

http://www.pinballdisplays.co.uk/pinballdisplays/id1.html

Big Daddy has them in stock if you're happy ordering from abroad (warning customs/postage charges will most likely be added and sting a bit):

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/



Once that is done you might have a working machine! :cool: Only needs a new relay, not heard that one before...!
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@ Moonraker. Many thanks for that..... advice always wecome and it is quite a daunting task when you take a first look inside that backbox! I have downloaded a manual now and will look at those points you mentioned as a priority.

I'll keep you posted!



Cheers, jim
 
yup an Alltek may be the way to go.Unless you are happy with electronics,and have the time - your call.



I must admit I never realised it would be SS-thought it would have been an EM - how wrong I was!!

Peter has given you a good comprehensive list of info and sites there.

Being as this is your first,I would most certainly dont go rushing this.You would be amazed,for example the amount of times someone puts in the wrong fuse.At least now,with a manual you can one by one check each fuse is correct,not blown and have a look for some obvious bodges that may or may not have been done.

May also be prudent to check the resistance of each coil ensuring none are a dead short - ie zero ohms(or thereabouts).As if that is the case it would have taken out a transistor on the driver board.



Best of luck
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@ THYO Many thanks. I have taken the MPU board off tonight ( its an Stern MPU-100 by the way) and all doesn't look too bad. The battery has obviously been replaced somewhere along the way by the looks of it and I can't see any visual signs of damage to other components, only some bubbling of the solder mask around the wide ground strip on the bottom edge of the board. For simplicity and cost I am wondering about replacing with a remote NiCd replacement at the moment?

When you mention checking coils TYHO which area/board are you talking about?



Thanks, jim
 
One other question .....is it best to put any sort of lubricant on the pin connectors on the boards to make them easier to remove at any time?
 
jimmy55' date=' post: 1697406 said:
@ THYO Many thanks. I have taken the MPU board off tonight ( its an Stern MPU-100 by the way) and all doesn't look too bad. The battery has obviously been replaced somewhere along the way by the looks of it and I can't see any visual signs of damage to other components, only some bubbling of the solder mask around the wide ground strip on the bottom edge of the board.



From your picture http://www.groovynorfolk.com/P1020571a.jpg

A few of the affected compents (solders/compenent legs have turned green/grey mush):

C3

R16

R17

VR1

R1

R3

Q1

C13

R134

Probably R24

Plus you need to take the 5101 chip holder off (replace with new) to see if there's any underneath. Also carefully clean the 5101 legs and don't touch them with your fingers (it is static sensitive memory chip) !



My advice would be to not put any lubricant on the pin connectors - you need a nice clean connections, lubricant attracts dirt. :cool:
 
If your after an Alltek MPU board Andy at www.pinballmania.co.uk has them in stock, I just received one from him today for a Star trek I'm currently working on. Cheers Andy for the quick delivery (as always)



BTW On the look out for an As-2881-1 sound board if anyone has one spare for sale (mines missing)



Jim, Take your time and ask if your not sure what your doing it will seem daunting at first but it gets easier as you go along. The guys on here are very Knowledgeable and helpful and will have fixed pretty much any problem you will encounter on you repair journey.



Most of all enjoy... and make room for your next machine.
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oh and welcome to the Forum
 
Thanks again all,



I have ordered my repair kit and continuing to explore and clean as I go!



I cant seem to find this in the schematic and cant seen to imagine what purpose it serves other than to hit the backbox ....it has a reinforcing plate mounted on the shielding which was crudely covered with piece of cardboard ( to stop the noise it makes? )
 
yup,and as Peter says -many components look fooked:(



as I said down to whether you have the skill to fix(or are frugal
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)

Or "lets hopefully get it working" and get a new board



poi
 
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