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Bad Cats (Williams 1989) EOS testing?

Martin.D

Registered
5Years
Joined
Jul 28, 2019
Messages
159
Location
Bromley, Kent.
Cleaning and testing as I go on my Bad Cats.
Came to flippers to find unable to test EOS switches using machine.
Little concern Right flipper switch assembly different to Left side. Also black wires coming off both switch assembly going no where. (See pictures).
My questions:
1. How to test EOS switches working as Bad Cats diagnostics do not seem to cover this?
2. What are black wires supposed to be connected too?

FlipperEOS1s.jpg
FlipperEOS2s.jpg
 
I believe the black wires are supposed to be connected to a capacitor which is missing. The yellow things in the picture
IMG_1692.png
 
If you're going to rebuild them I'd update them to the later flipper mech (1992 onwards), which includes the external return spring rather than that horrible conical compression spring which is awful, wears the plunger and makes the flippers less snappy.

The only difference in the sys11 and wpc mechs is the return spring and the EOS, as on later wpc games the EOS is just a switch that tells the CPU it's state whereas with sys11 the switch is directly attached to the flipper coil meaning it carries a much higher voltage so needs to be the tungsten EOS.

I did the upgrade on Claire's Diner using spare parts I had and it made the flippers so much nicer.

Happy to advise, but the best way is to buy a wpc 1992 rebuild kit and buy the EOS and capacitor separately
 
Assuming I have correct 1992 rebuild kit (see picture). Which does not come with capacitor.
Not done EOS rebuild before and manual unhelpful.
How does attached (+/-)? Also flipper mechanism is ok so maybe only need EOS and capacitor separately.

My understanding of EOS switch was to switch to lower voltage specially when player holding flipper up.


A-13524-8_1992-93.jpg
 
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The EOS switch doesnt switch voltage, there are 2 different coil windings on the flipper coils and the EOS switches to a lower strength/power winding so it doesnt burn out when you hold the flipper up.

Not sure on this model but I know certain ones use a different method for the EOS, some open at the end of stroke and some close, but both have the same effect.

Checking on PinWiki, it looks like the Manuals are not always best to follow. https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11#Documentation_Errors
 
Assuming I have correct 1992 rebuild kit (see picture). Which does not come with capacitor.
Not done EOS rebuild before and manual unhelpful.
How does attached (+/-)? Also flipper mechanism is ok so maybe only need EOS and capacitor separately.

My understanding of EOS switch was to switch to lower voltage specially when player holding flipper up.


View attachment 235262

This is good, just buy the correct EOS
Unfortunately pinparts is on holiday but this should give you the right idea, it has the larger contacts.
On that era of game the EOS is always closed until pushed by the flipper mech.
 
Hello,

Could you clarify how you mean, End of Stroke switches being tested?

1992 is a bit later than Bad Cats, which is firmly in the era of parallel-wound 'conventional' flipper units, with solid-state 'Lane Change'/Status Report/Initial Entry. As such, each flipper has a tungsten-contact switch fitted, which is normally closed. The arm on the flipper linkage pushes open the switch to shut off the primary winding of the coil. A capacitor connected across the EoS switch (and cable-tied to the upright), absorbs most of any back-emf voltage, which otherwise will burn the switch contacts. It looks as if that's what's happened already, and a couple of switches lying about have been fitted. For the right side, what's fitted isn't anything like the proper part, maybe it's for an old Bally type. The 2nd part of that switch, with a diode attached, is totally unnecessary; it may have been used for a Lane Change switch on some earlier installation, but not here. The switches in that 1992 kit couldn't cope with the current involved here; they're used to show a Fliptronic circuit board (and cpu/game program) that a flipper is raised.

As to diagnostics, a 'pre-Fliptronic' game like this doesn't have a 'Flipper Test' section. The flipper relay switches On when going into Bookkeeping/Diagnostic, and that's it; pressing the buttons should operate the flippers. The only time anything concerned with the flippers will show on the displays is in the Switch Tests, i.e. Levels, or Edges; the name 'Left Flipper' or 'Right Flipper' appears with its number when the flipper is operated (electrically, not by moving the flipper manually).

There are not power transistors controlling each flipper coil winding for this game; pressing a flipper button allows current to flow through both the windings of that coil, the closed EoS switch, the button contacts and the relay. The switch opens when the flipper is raised, cutting out the high-power winding of the coil, which would otherwise burn out in a few seconds if the flipper was held raised. A safer low current continues to flow through the Hold winding of the coil and keep the flipper raised, if necessary. As I understand it, 'voltage switching' is a data east method, so a single-winding coil can be used.

The Lane Change feature of later System 11 games uses a couple of tiny opto-coupler chips to sense flipper current, and link to the switch matrix. They're placed on the Backbox Interconnect circuit board, below the Cpu/Driver board. This keeps the switch matrix wires away from the 50v power wires at the flippers themselves.
 
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Well seem now I am asking wrong question. As was concerned that EOR switches did not look correct or match manual. Clearly they need replacing.
Found many temp fixes while cleaning and routine maintenance (Not so routine now). Some real horrors but easy fix with correct parts. Oh don't get me started on rubbers for this machine as manual missing information & misleading.

So now I need to understand how to correctly wire new EOR switches.
Also need to know how to connect capacitor and which way around it need go. Is there a guide for this?
These are the 2 parts listed in manual:
03-7811 End of Stroke (EOS)
5045-12098-00 Capacitor, 2.2 μFd, 250V, 20%


03-7811_lg.jpg2.2uf250v_b.jpg
 
Capacitor goes to each lugs on EOS. It doesn't matter what way round but ensure to put some heat shrink over the long legs so they don't make contact with anything.

It doesn't matter which wire of the two goes to which lug of the EOS, it's just a switch.

Just note where they currently go on the coil installed. Take a photo!

Here's a photo I took of one of mine to reference later

20231014_164032~2.jpg
The two blue wires go to the EOS, I noted that one goes to the non banded side of the diode and the other to the middle lug.

If your flipper is working you know the wires are at least in the right place.

As the EOS of this era isn't in the software of the game you can't test it. The way I test them is to power the flipper and push it down with my fingers and see if the EOS kicks the power winding back in.
 
Those 'black wires' you mentioned earlier are probably the broken-off leads of long gone capacitors, with insulating plastic sleeves on. They may be alright to use on fresh capacitors, or as above heat shrink tubing would also suit. But be sure to secure the capacitor to the switch mounting (it was altered to give that extra height when Williams began using parallel-wound coils, with capacitors added to the switches).

If the flipper operates with anything like normal power, then the switch is making contact. How good the contact is affects the power delivered. The weaker Hold winding does contribute to pulling in the plunger, but not by much, as found by dinsdale recently when a new switch wasn't making good contact.

As a guide to connection, the switch and capacitor should be connected to complete the circuit across the coil for the primary winding. So connect one side of the switch to the centre terminal of the coil (which is the end of the primary winding) and the other side to the 'tail' end of the coil, with the plain (unbanded) end of a diode. In your pictures, the coil return wires on the tail ends seem to be Blue-violet for the right flipper, and Blue-grey for the left.

As things already are, really, but with the capacitors added in place of the broken leads.
 
Thank all for information and advice.
Part of being pinball machine owner is knowing how to take care of them. Learning all the time having not done this job before.
So do this job and know next time how.

Seem new coil fitted by previous owner, but not new EOS.
Will take closer wires and take photo before replacing using information provided.
 
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Some advice if tackling a high-current EoS switch;
  1. Set the longer blade of the switch so that it moves a good way when pushed by the linkage. Having it only only just nudged by the linkage at the last moment won't give much scope for adjustment
  2. Then set the shorter blade so that the contacts have a good gap when open, but also that the contacts close and the two blades both move together with a 'wiping' action while the plunger/linkage returns to rest
  3. When making adjustments to the switch, move the plunger up to the end stop manually, e.g. using a thumbnail on its rear edge, rather than by moving the flipper or the linkage
  4. The switch has to have the contacts opened well apart with the flipper raised, i.e. with the plunger against the end stop. If either (more likely both) are worn, the gap could be affected if they're replaced later
regarding 4. above, one extreme case I've seen was when a flipper bushing came loose from the baseplate; that alteration was enough to prevent the switch opening, resulting in a blown fuse, on a T2.
 
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