We group bought a couple of VECTORs, playfields and parts. I'm taking on the 'project' machine.
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In Progress VIVA lost VECTOR
- Thread starter astyy
- Start date
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Shopping...
I got a suitable Transformer from Brian at Solent Pinball. He also had some other VECTOR bits. I nabbed these stand-up targets for the coils and the print is better than mine. Finally 2x AS-2518-82 Aux Driver Triac Lamp Flasher and 1x AS-2518-66 Solenoid Expander. So just missing the GI flasher which I am going to make on stripboard.
Displays are from bigphil picked up at NLP - VECTOR uses 4x 7 digit and 2x 6 digit (one embedded in the pf)
Displays tested in GOLD BALL
Displays stored in VECTOR.
I got a suitable Transformer from Brian at Solent Pinball. He also had some other VECTOR bits. I nabbed these stand-up targets for the coils and the print is better than mine. Finally 2x AS-2518-82 Aux Driver Triac Lamp Flasher and 1x AS-2518-66 Solenoid Expander. So just missing the GI flasher which I am going to make on stripboard.
Displays are from bigphil picked up at NLP - VECTOR uses 4x 7 digit and 2x 6 digit (one embedded in the pf)
Displays tested in GOLD BALL
Displays stored in VECTOR.
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Testing the Transformer and Rectifier Board
After cleaning the top of the transformer with a scourer I could read the markings - AS-3071-2/E-122-142. This is correct for VECTOR.
The rectifier board was present and is an AS-2518-54. The fuses are good (not sure if right) and no obvious damage top & bottom.
Firstly I checked continuity and resistance across all the Transformer coils testing at the points shown below. All coils were continuous (buzz test) and measure a few ohms resistance. The only exception is the 170 VAC measuring 20 Ohm, this is normal (according to Nedreud GOLD BALL shop log)
Next I removed the power assembly from the machine and connected the Transformer to mains and earthing the plate. I jumpered J1 to 240VAC supply selection (pins 4-8 and 7-11) I then CAREFULLY measure the output voltages at the same points marked above with results as follows
With the results looking good I then plugged the transformer into the rectifier board to read the TPs. Note now testing DC apart from TP4.
So far so good. I'm sure the rectifier board could do with some upgrades whilst it's out which I'll research further.
After cleaning the top of the transformer with a scourer I could read the markings - AS-3071-2/E-122-142. This is correct for VECTOR.
The rectifier board was present and is an AS-2518-54. The fuses are good (not sure if right) and no obvious damage top & bottom.
Firstly I checked continuity and resistance across all the Transformer coils testing at the points shown below. All coils were continuous (buzz test) and measure a few ohms resistance. The only exception is the 170 VAC measuring 20 Ohm, this is normal (according to Nedreud GOLD BALL shop log)
Next I removed the power assembly from the machine and connected the Transformer to mains and earthing the plate. I jumpered J1 to 240VAC supply selection (pins 4-8 and 7-11) I then CAREFULLY measure the output voltages at the same points marked above with results as follows
With the results looking good I then plugged the transformer into the rectifier board to read the TPs. Note now testing DC apart from TP4.
So far so good. I'm sure the rectifier board could do with some upgrades whilst it's out which I'll research further.
Attachments
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Cabinet Wiring
The cabinet wiring is not original as follows. I'd appreciate advice on improving this.
The mains lead comes in through back of cabinet to this gizmo - I'm not sure what it is? No signs of usual EMI filter and Varistor.
It then routes up and under the pf support bar to the power switch
Then doubles back on itself to this. Note 4 coach bolts through cab I have no idea what these were used for?
Ending here, no signs of the molex plug for the Transformer...
The cabinet wiring is not original as follows. I'd appreciate advice on improving this.
The mains lead comes in through back of cabinet to this gizmo - I'm not sure what it is? No signs of usual EMI filter and Varistor.
It then routes up and under the pf support bar to the power switch
Then doubles back on itself to this. Note 4 coach bolts through cab I have no idea what these were used for?
Ending here, no signs of the molex plug for the Transformer...
Awesome work on the transformer testing. That all looks perfect! Noticed that you have the slightly different POWER MODULE to mine. Electrically these are exactly the same, just slightly different layout, e.g., the red varistor:
As for the mains cabling: the block on the back is just an old style plug block. Like GOLD BALL, VECTOR normally has the mains cable routed through a slot in the neck between cabinet and backbox. Quite handy, but I'd go for a modern one with a built-in RF filter as you are definitely missing that (again just like GB this is normally mounted on the rear left side of the cabinet). So, at some point someone totally re-wired this cabinet. I'm going to take a guess that the four bolts in the side were where 110-240V step-down/up transformer was mounted, particularly as the wires have been re-spliced with crimp connectors. I guess whoever did it didn't realised that the main transformer can be re-jumpered for different input voltages.
I'll grab you a set of photos of the insides of my VECTOR so that you can re-wire it properly. I'd want to get rid of that exposed in-line fuse by the 220V 2.5A labels. Not needed and not safe.
As for the mains cabling: the block on the back is just an old style plug block. Like GOLD BALL, VECTOR normally has the mains cable routed through a slot in the neck between cabinet and backbox. Quite handy, but I'd go for a modern one with a built-in RF filter as you are definitely missing that (again just like GB this is normally mounted on the rear left side of the cabinet). So, at some point someone totally re-wired this cabinet. I'm going to take a guess that the four bolts in the side were where 110-240V step-down/up transformer was mounted, particularly as the wires have been re-spliced with crimp connectors. I guess whoever did it didn't realised that the main transformer can be re-jumpered for different input voltages.
I'll grab you a set of photos of the insides of my VECTOR so that you can re-wire it properly. I'd want to get rid of that exposed in-line fuse by the 220V 2.5A labels. Not needed and not safe.
Looks like the gizmo is the filter/varistor built in rather than separate.
Which is normal for most pinball machines, although perhaps not as close to the support bar as this one is.
I think that particular fuse should be contained in a plastic sheath given that it has mains going through it. The bolts may have mounted an operator licence of some kind on the outside of the cabinet.
That probably connected directly on to the transformer that was there before it too was removed.
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Also I have 6 fuses which is different to yours and the manual.
Ooh! Well spotted. But both AS-2518-54 boards. Mmm?
So you have an extra F6 next to F5. I can't see but what does it say the rating is underneath each fuse? In the schematic F5 is 20A for the GI. Yours looks as though it has "bb" printed above F6, so maybe "backbox"? I'm guessing they've split the GI into circuit for backbox and cabinet and probably put a 10A fuse on each. This is exactly what GOLD BALL has for F6 and F7, which are are 8A each.
Doh! Check PinWiki: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Rectifier_Boards You have a REVISION B board that has separate fuses for the playfield and backbox GI.
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Nice - does it need any mod's before being reinstalled? It looks in relatively good nick per the pic's of top/bottom in earlier post above.
What would you recommend an IEC kettle socket? Can you point me at a part.
Thanks,
Exposed mains fuses are never a good idea, especially ones mounted an inch or two away from a big metal bars that users grab hold of!I like @Nedreud suggestion better than mine!
The REV B is a drop in replacement. Only change is splitting the GI supply through 2 fuses instead of 1 between backbox and playfield/cabinet, just like on GOLD BALL. The connectors remain exactly the same:
That block at the back of the cab really does look like it's just a cable clamp and connection block. I'm not seeing anything about it that looks like an RF filter or varistor. An IEC kettle socket would make a good replacement. You can get them with illuminated power switches and/or integral fuses. Something like this:
You can get them with built-in RF filters but checking the price some of them are really expensive. Lots of options in the CPC catalog: http://www.easyflip.co.uk/CPC_2015/?page=1638
However, I've just had a quick word with my electronics buddy and he says it would be important to have a filter that has at least the same minimum specification as the original part, which is a Corcom 5VK1. Unsurprisingly none on eBay from the UK and although there are plenty from the US the postage costs are prohibitive. CPC don't have them, Mouser and Farnell do but with the old £12 delivery charge. Sigh. This place has them for £13.19 including delivery:
http://www.mercateo.co.uk/p/live_gb...erline_Filter_2_81in_Length_5_A_250_V_ac.html
Using a 5VK1 would be most authentic as it'd be exactly like the original. Fitting an IEC socket on the rear of the cabinet (with or without fuse and/or switch) still seems like a good to me and is something I'm going to do on all my machines, as having the cable coming out the hole in the neck is a pain.
Ooh! Don't forget you need to add a varistor (MOV) across the input to the filter:
The manual doesn't specify a value but for UK 230V mains 275V is a good choice (this is what Pinball Mania stocks for 50p each).The specs on CPC are a bit confusing and prices range from 30p to 66p so Andy is a good price if you're ordering anything else from PM). I will try and get an exact part number when I look at mine.
The manual doesn't specify a value but for UK 230V mains 275V is a good choice (this is what Pinball Mania stocks for 50p each).The specs on CPC are a bit confusing and prices range from 30p to 66p so Andy is a good price if you're ordering anything else from PM). I will try and get an exact part number when I look at mine.
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Gave the Rectifier Board a bath @PeteB style. Cleaned with CIF and soft paintbrush, rinsed it with filtered water and then drying in fan oven on defrost setting.
I can now read the Fuse ratings which are same as the manual apart from F5 & F6 being 15A this being a AS-2518-54 Rev B board having split fuses to BB and PF GI. The fuses removed are the correct ratings but most are marked BUSS MDL (Method Detection Limit) which I believe are Time Lag/Slow (the four on the left below), my understanding is only F2 3/4A should be a timed fuse (?)
A2 : Power Transformer Module Fuses / AS-2518-54 Rev B Rectifier Board
F1 T3A Fuse Holder on input side of Transformer
F1 F20A Switched Illumination
F2 T3/4A HV for displays
F3 F4A Unregulated +5V
F4 F7A Solenoids, note 7A as VECTOR has four flippers
F5 F15A Cab & PF GI
F6 F15A BB GI (Rev B board only)
I can now read the Fuse ratings which are same as the manual apart from F5 & F6 being 15A this being a AS-2518-54 Rev B board having split fuses to BB and PF GI. The fuses removed are the correct ratings but most are marked BUSS MDL (Method Detection Limit) which I believe are Time Lag/Slow (the four on the left below), my understanding is only F2 3/4A should be a timed fuse (?)
A2 : Power Transformer Module Fuses / AS-2518-54 Rev B Rectifier Board
F1 T3A Fuse Holder on input side of Transformer
F1 F20A Switched Illumination
F2 T3/4A HV for displays
F3 F4A Unregulated +5V
F4 F7A Solenoids, note 7A as VECTOR has four flippers
F5 F15A Cab & PF GI
F6 F15A BB GI (Rev B board only)
Wow. Big improvement after the bath. Mine really needs that. The inside of my VECTOR is like a Grundon.
Yes, fuses should all be fast acting except that 3/4A which I think is in the 180V circuit for the displays (there's another fuse for that on the regulator board in the backbox).
Bit surprised by the 2 x 15A fuses for the GI. My VECTOR has a single 20A so I'd be inclined to fit some split of that, e.g., 10+10 or 8+12. I guess count all the GI bulbs in backbox and cabinet and fuse accordingly. 15A per circuit seems a bit generous to me.
Yes, fuses should all be fast acting except that 3/4A which I think is in the 180V circuit for the displays (there's another fuse for that on the regulator board in the backbox).
Bit surprised by the 2 x 15A fuses for the GI. My VECTOR has a single 20A so I'd be inclined to fit some split of that, e.g., 10+10 or 8+12. I guess count all the GI bulbs in backbox and cabinet and fuse accordingly. 15A per circuit seems a bit generous to me.
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Agreed but now I can clearly see these nasties, particularly charred on the high current fuses
Drying the board on the fan oven defrost cycle was particularly effective about 1hr did the trick.
Mmm... Those fuse holders do look a bit grotty. Problem is the oxidation increases resistance which leads to overheating which makes the problem worse quicker. It's the insides that are important but are a bugger to clean. And you need to clean carefully as you don't want to scrub off the tin playing. They only cost a few pence each and probably only take an hour to fit. Given the state of yours if go for replacement. Fire up the soldering iron!!!
http://cpc.farnell.com/multicomp/mccq-205s/fuse-clip-pcb-6-3mm-w-ears/dp/FF02911
http://cpc.farnell.com/multicomp/mccq-205s/fuse-clip-pcb-6-3mm-w-ears/dp/FF02911
My VECTOR is back on it's legs and all faults fixed so I thought I'd start doing some R&D for @astyy's project, starting with the pair of AS-2518-61 RED.V SOUND MODULE boards we picked up from @Big Phil at NLP weekend before last.
Both have E-872-01 U4 and E-872-03 U5 ROMs which are from MR & MRS PAC-MAN. No audio from the first but the diagnostic LED indicated all tests completed - initial suspects are therefore crappy volume trimmers, dry joints on the header pins, flaky electrolytic capacitors or dead audio amplifier.
The other one however spat out quite a few recognisable sounds when various playfield switches were pressed!
After that test I switched in the U2-4 ROMs from my VECTOR and tried again. Sound quality is a bit scratchy and the volume trimmers need replacing, but basically we have a working S&T board!
Both have E-872-01 U4 and E-872-03 U5 ROMs which are from MR & MRS PAC-MAN. No audio from the first but the diagnostic LED indicated all tests completed - initial suspects are therefore crappy volume trimmers, dry joints on the header pins, flaky electrolytic capacitors or dead audio amplifier.
The other one however spat out quite a few recognisable sounds when various playfield switches were pressed!
After that test I switched in the U2-4 ROMs from my VECTOR and tried again. Sound quality is a bit scratchy and the volume trimmers need replacing, but basically we have a working S&T board!
@astyy, I'm going to order a set of replacement electrolytic capacitors for both of these boards, plus a set for my own S&T. Want me to get an extra set for the board you've got? Not sure of the total cost yet, but it's only 14 capacitors, most of which are quite small, except the big C14 4700uF 25V which will be £2.10. I reckon around £5 for all of them.
I'll sit down and work it out...
I'll sit down and work it out...
Ok, sat down and worked it out:
AS-2518-61 REV.D DIY CAPACITOR KIT
Pricing-up to do 5 complete kits. Most caps are minimum order quantity of 5 and multiples of 5 at CPC except the big ones. Also, I'm going for radial leads as they're much cheaper and a wider range than axial, which are not as popular any more because they're generally not used by pick'n'place machines.
7 ea. 1uF 25V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C19, C24, C25, C28, C31, C34, C42) = 35
http://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic-electronic-components/eca1hhg010/capacitor-105c-1uf-50v/dp/CA04938
PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS ECA1HHG010 Electrolytic Capacitor, 1 µF, 50 VDC, 5 mm
7 x £0.432 (Pack of 5) = £3.02
2 ea. 2uF 25V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C36 & C43) = 10
http://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic-el...ca1hhg2r2/capacitor-105c-2-2uf-50v/dp/CA04939
PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS ECA1HHG2R2 Electrolytic Capacitor, 2.2 µF, 50 VDC, 5 mm
2 x £0.432 (Pack of 5) = £0.86
1 ea. 10uF 16V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C15) = 5
http://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic-electronic-components/eca1hhg100/capacitor-105c-10uf-50v/dp/CA04942
PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS ECA1HHG100 Electrolytic Capacitor, 10 µF, 50 VDC, 5 mm
1 x £0.432 (Pack of 5) = £0.43
1 ea. 47uF 16V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C1) = 5
http://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic-electronic-components/eca1hhg470/capacitor-105c-47uf-50v/dp/CA04945
PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS ECA1HHG470 Electrolytic Capacitor, 47 µF, 50 VDC, 6.3 mm
1 x £0.816 (Pack of 5) = £0.82
2 ea. 330uF 50V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C37 & C38) = 10
http://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic-el...ca1hhg331/capacitor-105c-330uf-50v/dp/CA04948
PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS ECA1HHG331 Electrolytic Capacitor, 330 µF, 50 VDC, 10 mm
2 x £1.548 (Pack of 5) = £3.10
1 ea. 470uF 6V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C29) = 5
http://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic-el...ca1chg471/capacitor-105c-470uf-16v/dp/CA04928
PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS ECA1CHG471 Electrolytic Capacitor, 470 µF, 16 VDC, 8 mm
1 x £1.272 (Pack of 5) = £1.27
1 ea. 1000uF 16V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C27) = 5
http://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic-el...a1chg102/capacitor-105c-1000uf-16v/dp/CA04929
PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS ECA1CHG102 Electrolytic Capacitor, 1000 µF, 16 VDC, 10 mm
1 x £2.004 (Pack of 5) = £2.00
1 ea. 4700uF 25V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C14) = 5
http://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic-electronic-components/eeufc1e472/capacitor-4700uf-25v/dp/CA05160
PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS EEUFC1E472 Electrolytic Capacitor, FC Series, 4700 µF, ± 20%, 25 V, 18 mm, Radial Leaded
5 x £1.752 each = £8.72
2 ea. 4.7uF 25V Dipped Tantalum Capacitor (C16 & C22) = 10
http://cpc.farnell.com/multicomp/mccb1e475m2bcb/capacitor-tant-4-7uf-25v/dp/CA05691
MULTICOMP MCCB1E475M2BCB Tantalum Capacitor, Epoxy-Coated, MCCB Series, 4.7 µF, ± 20%, 25 V, Radial Leaded, 5.1 mm
10 x £0.12 each = £1.20
2 ea. 1K Volume Trimmer pots = 10
http://cpc.farnell.com/bourns/3309p-1-102/trimmer-1k-9mm/dp/RE05262
BOURNS 3309P-1-102 TRIMMER, 1K, 9MM
10 x £0.444 each = £4.44
GRAND TOTAL = £25.87
PRICE PER KIT = £5.17
If you're happy with that @astyy I'll place the order today?
AS-2518-61 REV.D DIY CAPACITOR KIT
Pricing-up to do 5 complete kits. Most caps are minimum order quantity of 5 and multiples of 5 at CPC except the big ones. Also, I'm going for radial leads as they're much cheaper and a wider range than axial, which are not as popular any more because they're generally not used by pick'n'place machines.
7 ea. 1uF 25V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C19, C24, C25, C28, C31, C34, C42) = 35
http://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic-electronic-components/eca1hhg010/capacitor-105c-1uf-50v/dp/CA04938
PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS ECA1HHG010 Electrolytic Capacitor, 1 µF, 50 VDC, 5 mm
7 x £0.432 (Pack of 5) = £3.02
2 ea. 2uF 25V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C36 & C43) = 10
http://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic-el...ca1hhg2r2/capacitor-105c-2-2uf-50v/dp/CA04939
PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS ECA1HHG2R2 Electrolytic Capacitor, 2.2 µF, 50 VDC, 5 mm
2 x £0.432 (Pack of 5) = £0.86
1 ea. 10uF 16V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C15) = 5
http://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic-electronic-components/eca1hhg100/capacitor-105c-10uf-50v/dp/CA04942
PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS ECA1HHG100 Electrolytic Capacitor, 10 µF, 50 VDC, 5 mm
1 x £0.432 (Pack of 5) = £0.43
1 ea. 47uF 16V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C1) = 5
http://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic-electronic-components/eca1hhg470/capacitor-105c-47uf-50v/dp/CA04945
PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS ECA1HHG470 Electrolytic Capacitor, 47 µF, 50 VDC, 6.3 mm
1 x £0.816 (Pack of 5) = £0.82
2 ea. 330uF 50V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C37 & C38) = 10
http://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic-el...ca1hhg331/capacitor-105c-330uf-50v/dp/CA04948
PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS ECA1HHG331 Electrolytic Capacitor, 330 µF, 50 VDC, 10 mm
2 x £1.548 (Pack of 5) = £3.10
1 ea. 470uF 6V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C29) = 5
http://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic-el...ca1chg471/capacitor-105c-470uf-16v/dp/CA04928
PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS ECA1CHG471 Electrolytic Capacitor, 470 µF, 16 VDC, 8 mm
1 x £1.272 (Pack of 5) = £1.27
1 ea. 1000uF 16V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C27) = 5
http://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic-el...a1chg102/capacitor-105c-1000uf-16v/dp/CA04929
PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS ECA1CHG102 Electrolytic Capacitor, 1000 µF, 16 VDC, 10 mm
1 x £2.004 (Pack of 5) = £2.00
1 ea. 4700uF 25V Axial Electrolytic Capacitor (C14) = 5
http://cpc.farnell.com/panasonic-electronic-components/eeufc1e472/capacitor-4700uf-25v/dp/CA05160
PANASONIC ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS EEUFC1E472 Electrolytic Capacitor, FC Series, 4700 µF, ± 20%, 25 V, 18 mm, Radial Leaded
5 x £1.752 each = £8.72
2 ea. 4.7uF 25V Dipped Tantalum Capacitor (C16 & C22) = 10
http://cpc.farnell.com/multicomp/mccb1e475m2bcb/capacitor-tant-4-7uf-25v/dp/CA05691
MULTICOMP MCCB1E475M2BCB Tantalum Capacitor, Epoxy-Coated, MCCB Series, 4.7 µF, ± 20%, 25 V, Radial Leaded, 5.1 mm
10 x £0.12 each = £1.20
2 ea. 1K Volume Trimmer pots = 10
http://cpc.farnell.com/bourns/3309p-1-102/trimmer-1k-9mm/dp/RE05262
BOURNS 3309P-1-102 TRIMMER, 1K, 9MM
10 x £0.444 each = £4.44
GRAND TOTAL = £25.87
PRICE PER KIT = £5.17
If you're happy with that @astyy I'll place the order today?
@astyy, you'll no doubt be happy to hear that I got the other S&T board to work!
I also worked out how to power it on the test bench using an ATX PC power supply:
This means we now have 3 working S&T boards. Hopefully one that came with your VECTOR is also a worker. Both these boards definitely need "re-capping" with a set of new capacitors and volume trimmers as the sound quality is very scratchy. I'm also thinking it's be worth replacing the TDA2002 amplifiers with the slightly better TDA2003 model as they're only about 50p (scratch that... I just ordered some from far away lands and got 10 for less than £2).
The next thing I'd like to do is get my Arduino running as source of test signals to emulate the data sent by the MPU. This has been taxing Jim @myPinballs so don't hold you're breath waiting for a result. Not that it's needed to fix these boards. I'm just curious and like a challenge!
I also worked out how to power it on the test bench using an ATX PC power supply:
This means we now have 3 working S&T boards. Hopefully one that came with your VECTOR is also a worker. Both these boards definitely need "re-capping" with a set of new capacitors and volume trimmers as the sound quality is very scratchy. I'm also thinking it's be worth replacing the TDA2002 amplifiers with the slightly better TDA2003 model as they're only about 50p (scratch that... I just ordered some from far away lands and got 10 for less than £2).
The next thing I'd like to do is get my Arduino running as source of test signals to emulate the data sent by the MPU. This has been taxing Jim @myPinballs so don't hold you're breath waiting for a result. Not that it's needed to fix these boards. I'm just curious and like a challenge!
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This all sounds great progress, I'm enjoying my non-Exec position on this shop log. Carry on and I'll go and see what the new plastics look like 
No time like the present! Arduino test rig set up. Shuffled a few wires around on the only spare 15-pin 0.156" Molex shell I've got and fitted six data lines to the Ardunio MEGA2650:
Now I just need to write some code...
Now I just need to write some code...
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I'm placing my NEW and INCLUDED parts into the machine to inventory what's still MISSING. Fortunately several spare boards came with the project and between me and my wing-man on this shop (@Nedreud) we have the Solenoid Driver, Lamp Driver and spare MPUs and sound cards. The AS-2518-68 GI Flasher is still o/s but can easily be made up on stripboard.
Wiring wise, I only have the pf and VECTOR scan display pf loom(s) coming up to the bb. So am missing the cabinet loom and stuff that connects to A2 J2, J3 and J4 up to the BB. VECTOR has a lot of inline connectors that allows the BB to be disconnected independently. I have a couple of leads to source these else will be making them.
Here's where I'm at.
The cabinet is being cleared out I intend removing the alien wiring and re-wiring it more traditionally. The Tilt/Slam wooden board is missing too and all associated mech's.
Missing Triac GI Flasher and Solenoid Expander sourced and installed under PF
Wiring wise, I only have the pf and VECTOR scan display pf loom(s) coming up to the bb. So am missing the cabinet loom and stuff that connects to A2 J2, J3 and J4 up to the BB. VECTOR has a lot of inline connectors that allows the BB to be disconnected independently. I have a couple of leads to source these else will be making them.
Here's where I'm at.
The cabinet is being cleared out I intend removing the alien wiring and re-wiring it more traditionally. The Tilt/Slam wooden board is missing too and all associated mech's.
Missing Triac GI Flasher and Solenoid Expander sourced and installed under PF
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CPR Repro Plastics
New plastics arrived from Ministry of Pinball a good price compared to importing from US and excellent delivery service.
They are packaged like this with the plastics loose in a bag.
I thought they would be affixed to a card or similar but tbf each plastic has double protective film and they are clear and shiney underneath with nice bevelled edges.
You get spare sling covers, and also enlarged transparent versions - I'm not sure if the idea is to use a transparent and art version for better protection? It was a right old jigsaw with no existing plastics to compare - not sure where this diddy bit goes.
With bits laid in postsion and some old red flipper rubbers it's starting to look like a pinball machine
I'm really pleased with them and am sure they'll look awesome when all the film is removed particularly as VECTOR has a lot of transparent areas that will be crystal clear. The only downside is that you need to move any riveted brackets and bell posts from the existing ones - apparently the latter can be moved over using the tip of a hot soldering iron - will practice that first.
You're reassured that these are GENUINE Factory Replacement parts.
New plastics arrived from Ministry of Pinball a good price compared to importing from US and excellent delivery service.
They are packaged like this with the plastics loose in a bag.
I thought they would be affixed to a card or similar but tbf each plastic has double protective film and they are clear and shiney underneath with nice bevelled edges.
You get spare sling covers, and also enlarged transparent versions - I'm not sure if the idea is to use a transparent and art version for better protection? It was a right old jigsaw with no existing plastics to compare - not sure where this diddy bit goes.
With bits laid in postsion and some old red flipper rubbers it's starting to look like a pinball machine
I'm really pleased with them and am sure they'll look awesome when all the film is removed particularly as VECTOR has a lot of transparent areas that will be crystal clear. The only downside is that you need to move any riveted brackets and bell posts from the existing ones - apparently the latter can be moved over using the tip of a hot soldering iron - will practice that first.
You're reassured that these are GENUINE Factory Replacement parts.
OP
OP
A bit off topic but M&S are currently selling these Xmas Shortbread tins - we've eaten ours already but I spotted the tin is a perfect size for a missing cash box!
Tap me up for a cash box next time you're down at SWL and yes the clear plastics are protectors that you fit under the new plastics. They should be a few mills proud of the new plastics as that is what provides the protection.
Nice work @astyy! You're going great guns
That small rectangular plastic goes up by the X-Y-Z drop-targets (thanks to Mr Todd N. Tuckey for pointing this out):
For some reason I've yet to discover you'll quite often see the wrong plastic in this position:
Don't know why and don't know which game it's been blagged from?
That small rectangular plastic goes up by the X-Y-Z drop-targets (thanks to Mr Todd N. Tuckey for pointing this out):
For some reason I've yet to discover you'll quite often see the wrong plastic in this position:
Don't know why and don't know which game it's been blagged from?