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Repinning Molex connectors

Wizcat

Wizcat

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Joined
Sep 9, 2011
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Lancashire
Seems like ages ago now, but I remember struggling to find good information on how to repin molex connectors (to replace the IDC connectors). When I did eventually stumble into Clay's site it was very Americana focused, so sourcing parts this side of the pond wasn't much easier.

Clay's site is still however probably the bible for this information : http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/

In brief though, the standard connectors on most pinball machines are IDC (Insulation Displacement) connectors. My understanding is that these were mainly to speed things up in the factory. The workers could just punch wires from the loom straight into the connectors (already placed on the board). Job done.

20 or 30 years later and those connectors are now getting a bit flaky! Replacing with Molex style trifurcon pins offers better conductivity, therefore less heat generated and less chance of burning things up.


Parts required

Crimping Tool
w00.JPG

You'll probably want one that does both .100" (2.54mm) and .156" (3.96mm) pins as these are the most common sizes. With most of the crimping tools you'll need to make two crimps for each pin (One for the outer cable and another for the inner wire). If you get a ratcheting crimp tool (pictured) then it does both crimps in one smooth motion. Highly recommended.

Available from
Pinball Mania : https://pinparts.co.uk/products/ht-225d-crimp-tool-for-molex-crimp-pins-awg-18-22-24-30
Ebay : (search for 'Crimping Tool Molex'


Molex Housing
w0a.jpg
You'll probably either need either 'small' .100" (2.54mm) housings, or 'large' .156" (3.96mm) housings. The larger connectors are mainly used on the mpu boards, driver boards and similar. Smaller connectors are occasionally used on breakout boards, such as individual opto boards.

Available from RS Components : http://uk.rs-online.com/web/
You can search by part number to find the required connector housings:
26-03-4151 will bring up 15 socket .156" (large) housings.
22-01-3127 will bring up 12 socket .100" (small) housings.

Also at Farnell:
http://uk.farnell.com/molex/09-50-3121/crimp-housing-3-96mm-12way/dp/1972745
Search by part number
09-50-3121 will bring up 12 way .156" (large) housings.

Change the numbers in bold to find housings with less sockets, though larger housings can be cut down to size with a sharp blade (and nerves of steel)


Molex Terminal Pins
w0b.jpg
These are the pins that the wire is crimped to, then inserted into the plastic housings.
Available from RS Components : http://uk.rs-online.com/web/
.156" pins for large housings (part number 08-52-0113)
.100" pins for small housings (part number 08-50-0114)


Molex Polarising Key
w0c.jpg
You'll probably have noticed that most of the existing connectors have at least one socket blocked off to help prevent the wrong connector going onto the wrong socket. These polarising keys allow you to block of one of the holes in the housing to replicate that. These are therefore technically not required if you never ever misconnect your wires. If however you are human you may want to make sure these are installed.

Available from RS Components : http://uk.rs-online.com/web/
.156" plastic housing polarizing pins (part number 15-04-0219)
.100" plastic housing polarized pins (part number 15-04-9210)


Molex Header Pins
w0d.JPG
If your existing plastic housings have burnt up, then its possible the header pins have become damaged in the process. Replacing these requires some soldering work. The technique for removing existing header pins is to individually heat up the solder joint for each of the pins, then pull the pin out.

Available from
Pinball Mania :
https://pinparts.co.uk/products/0156-pitch-header-pin-24-ways (.156)
https://pinparts.co.uk/products/01-pitch-header-pins-molex-22-28-4361 (.100)

RS Components : http://uk.rs-online.com/web/
You can search by part number to find the required size, though these can be cut down.
26-48-1125 will bring up 12 pin .156" headers
22-23-2121 will bring up 12 pin .100" headers
 
Last edited:
Please post if you know alternative sources for these parts and I'll try and keep things updated, thanks!
 
so far i've always gone down the easy route of IDC connectors, as my games are only home use (and shows) and aren't left turned on. i've had no problems with any IDCs i've replaced so far. does this seem ok to you lot, or is there a general feeling that proper crimped pins are necessary?
 
cooldan said:
so far i've always gone down the easy route of IDC connectors, as my games are only home use (and shows) and aren't left turned on. i've had no problems with any IDCs i've replaced so far. does this seem ok to you lot, or is there a general feeling that proper crimped pins are necessary?
Click to expand...

I've also replaced with IDC over the years. No problems. I don't argue that the crimps aren't better, but in home use when a machine is used a fraction of the time it would be in site use I think its prob not an issue worth fretting about.
 
I believe IDC was used as a cost saving exercise as it took less time to make an IDC connection than crimping.
That said, in support of the Sgt, our machines have had IDC connections function perfectly well for many years so why change that now?
Because: I am having to fix up some connectors so I might as well spend the slight longer time and get the best connection.
Plus: Crimping sounds cool, unlike IDC'ing
 
As usual I like to throw a curve ball: I don't IDC or crimp. I always solder my Trifurcon pins. Far superior strength and more importantly, far more reliable electrical contact between pin and wire. And if you have to replace a connector a couple of seconds on a hot iron and it's off with the wire ready tinned to put a new one on in its place. No arsing around bending crimps back open or snipping and re-stripping the wire shorter.
 
Nedreud said:
As usual I like to throw a curve ball: I don't IDC or crimp. I always solder my Trifurcon pins. Far superior strength and more importantly, far more reliable electrical contact between pin and wire. And if you have to replace a connector a couple of seconds on a hot iron and it's off with the wire ready tinned to put a new one on in its place. No arsing around bending crimps back open or snipping and re-stripping the wire shorter.
Click to expand...

I used to solder pins, until I had to re-pin an entire Bally game. After that I wished I had bought a proper crimping tool years earlier than I had
 
GrizZ said:
You'll really struggle to get it right with that. Better to buy the proper tool.
Click to expand...


yup

Crimping is the way to go,that is why it is used all over aircraft-stuff used to be soldered a couple of dozen years ago,but crimping is very good,and quick
 
I need to repin the switch return which has a few loops in, I've seen 2 methods for doing this, either tin the wires, crimp them, and heat the pin up, or illegally crimp the pigtail in the insulation crimp.

Which works best?
 
Pigtail?

Only crimp if you've got the proper crimping tool and a decent one at that. Anything else will make a **** job of it and you'll wish you'd just soldered them on in the first place. It depends on the exact connector but as an example the correct tool for Molex KK .156 Trifurcon pins is the Molex 63811-7500 which will set you back about £240:

151825607-40.jpg
http://uk.farnell.com/molex/63811-7500/hand-tool-crimp-24-18awg/dp/1518256

Soldering, IMHO, can't be beaten but does take extra time. I really would recommend it due to the heavy vibration environment present in a pinball machine. And make sure cables are properly supported and secure to minimise any strain.
 
I should add that other crimping tools are available for less than the utterly ridiculous cost of those ones from Molex. Around £25 should get a good set but not always. As noted above don't even bother with those cheapo crimps for car spade connectors.
 
For reference:

Molex KK 156 housing with crimped Trifurcon pins:

MOLEX_KK_156.png

Molex IDC connector (note the wires are pushed into a metal slit which pierces the cable making contact with the wire inside):

MOLEX_IDC.png
 
Carl Spiby said:
I need to repin the switch return which has a few loops in, I've seen 2 methods for doing this, either tin the wires, crimp them, and heat the pin up, or illegally crimp the pigtail in the insulation crimp.

Which works best?
Click to expand...
I would tin then solder wires together, then crimp. Will be tight
It's how Clay recommends here: http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/#looped
 
Wizcat said:
Seems like ages ago now, but I remember struggling to find good information on how to repin molex connectors (to replace the IDC connectors). When I did eventually stumble into Clay's site it was very Americana focused, so sourcing parts this side of the pond wasn't much easier.

Clay's site is still however probably the bible for this information : http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/

In brief though, the standard connectors on most pinball machines are IDC (Insulation Displacement) connectors. My understanding is that these were mainly to speed things up in the factory. The workers could just punch wires from the loom straight into the connectors (already placed on the board). Job done.

20 or 30 years later and those connectors are now getting a bit flaky! Replacing with Molex style trifurcon pins offers better conductivity, therefore less heat generated and less chance of burning things up.


Parts required

Crimping Tool
View attachment 1667

Available on ebay if you search for 'Crimping Tool Molex'. You'll probably want one that does both .100" (2.54mm) and .156" (3.96mm) pins as these are the most common sizes. With most of the crimping tools you'll need to make two crimps for each pin (One for the outer cable and another for the inner wire). If you get a ratcheting crimp tool (pictured) then it does both crimps in one smooth motion. Highly recommended. Ratcheting crimp tool on ebay


Molex Housing
View attachment 1664
You'll probably either need either 'small' .100" (2.54mm) housings, or 'large' .156" (3.96mm) housings. The larger connectors are mainly used on the mpu boards, driver boards and similar. Smaller connectors are occasionally used on breakout boards, such as individual opto boards.

Available from RS Components : http://uk.rs-online.com/web/

You can search by part number to find the required connector housings:
26-03-4151 will bring up 15 socket .156" (large) housings.
22-01-3127 will bring up 12 socket .100" (small) housings.

Change the numbers in bold to find housings with less sockets, though larger housings can be cut down to size with a sharp blade (and nerves of steel)


Molex Terminal Pins
View attachment 1665
These are the pins that the wire is crimped to, then inserted into the plastic housings.
Available from RS Components : http://uk.rs-online.com/web/
.156" pins for large housings (part number 08-52-0113)
.100" pins for small housings (part number 08-50-0114)


Molex Polarising Key
View attachment 1666
You'll probably have noticed that most of the existing connectors have at least one socket blocked off to help prevent the wrong connector going onto the wrong socket. These polarising keys allow you to block of one of the holes in the housing to replicate that. These are therefore technically not required if you never ever misconnect your wires. If however you are human you may want to make sure these are installed.

Available from RS Components : http://uk.rs-online.com/web/
.156" plastic housing polarizing pins (part number 15-04-0219)
.100" plastic housing polarized pins (part number 15-04-9210)


Molex Header Pins
View attachment 1668
If your existing plastic housings have burnt up, then its possible the header pins have become damaged in the process. Replacing these requires some soldering work. The technique for removing existing header pins is to individually heat up the solder joint for each of the pins, then pull the pin out.
Available from RS Components : http://uk.rs-online.com/web/
You can search by part number to find the required size, though these can be cut down.
26-48-1125 will bring up 12 pin .156" headers
22-23-2121 will bring up 12 pin .100" headers
Click to expand...


I've got the blue one,plus a waldom one,a red ratchet crimp type,like in another post in this thread,and and a VERY good set I got from GRE in the States

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=53
 
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